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Discussion Starter #1
I have 2 650 4wd tractors. One has 900 hrs and a blown engine the other with unknown hrs and a good running engine. The trans shifts kind of rough and the 3 pt hitch has inconsistence operation. My plan is to use the low hour transmission and 3 pt with the good engine. I am not sure yet if I will attach the front end of the running tractor to the low hour rear end or if I will pull the engine . The engine is already out of the blown one. I am looking for advice on what method I should use and also if there are any seals that would be good to replace since I will be in fairly deep?
 

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:munch::munch::munch:

What a fun project! You gonna show us your fun? Sorry, I cannot help you with your concerns.
 

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I have 2 650 4wd tractors. One has 900 hrs and a blown engine the other with unknown hrs and a good running engine. The trans shifts kind of rough and the 3 pt hitch has inconsistence operation. My plan is to use the low hour transmission and 3 pt with the good engine. I am not sure yet if I will attach the front end of the running tractor to the low hour rear end or if I will pull the engine . The engine is already out of the blown one. I am looking for advice on what method I should use and also if there are any seals that would be good to replace since I will be in fairly deep?
The transmissions in these early X50 (650 - 1050) tractors are non-synchronized. The clutch needs to be fully disengaged and tractor stopped / not rolling when changing gears. It's also common for the dry clutch to be out of adjustment. Too much clutch pedal free play will result in incomplete disengagement and you'll have trouble moving from neutral into any other gear.

I'd say check and / or adjust the clutch in the running tractor and use the one with the blown engine for parts. The 3PH lift problem should be an easy repair. You may just swap the entire 3PH lift top section from the parts tractor.
 

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Yeah as he said....you should NOT be trying to shift while moving, these types of transmissions require you to be at a complete stop to shift. Also, a worn or out of adjustment clutch that drags can make shifting difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The transmissions in these early X50 (650 - 1050) tractors are non-synchronized. The clutch needs to be fully disengaged and tractor stopped / not rolling when changing gears. It's also common for the dry clutch to be out of adjustment. Too much clutch pedal free play will result in incomplete disengagement and you'll have trouble moving from neutral into any other gear.
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I have a friend with a 650 with 12K hours on it. He said the same thing you did about the clutch. We tried to adjust it but with no improvement. Here is what I have noticed. If you stop the tractor completely and then shift right away its not too bad (some grind but very little). On the other hand, If you stop the tractor and pause for a bit (clutch pedal depressed) and then shift gears, the grind is very noticeable.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The 3pt hitch has been serviced and it seems to have plenty of lifting strength. The problem is that If you do not hold the lever back the lift will fall.
 

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The 3pt hitch has been serviced and it seems to have plenty of lifting strength. The problem is that If you do not hold the lever back the lift will fall.
I'm a little confused, are you saying that the 3pt control lever is sliding forward on its own and allowing the 3pt to drop?
 

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Hiya,

I'm with Frank on this one, adjust the clutch, tighten/repair the friction disk on the 3pt control lever and see what you have. My grandfather had an old tractor that would grind no matter what we did, his solution, shut it off, change speeds, start it up again. Hey it worked.
 

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I would think that should be an easy fix, easier than an engine swap.

If the clutch is really bad though, that would require removing the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
:munch::munch::munch:

What a fun project! You gonna show us your fun? Sorry, I cannot help you with your concerns.
Getting there. I only have about 1 day a week to work on it so it has been slow go.
 

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Getting there. I only have about 1 day a week to work on it so it has been slow go.
I know what you mean, I am not the fastest either. But, nothing like quality time. :thumbup1gif:

Looking good. Keep up the good work.

I rotated your pic for ya.

650front%20half.jpg
 

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Before you split the tractor again try this first. Put the tractor in any forward gear and have someone depress the clutch pedal while you attempt to roll the tractor forward. If the tractor rolls forward with the clutch disengaged then the disk is most likely installed properly and partially releasing. If this is the case the clutch linkage may be worn and is not fully releasing the clutch while the engine is running thus causing gear clash upon engagement.
 

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Back together but coming apart again due to clutch issues.
What is the issue?

Before you split the tractor again try this first. Put the tractor in any forward gear and have someone depress the clutch pedal while you attempt to roll the tractor forward. If the tractor rolls forward with the clutch disengaged then the disk is most likely installed properly and partially releasing. If this is the case the clutch linkage may be worn and is not fully releasing the clutch while the engine is running thus causing gear clash upon engagement.
I seem to think most 650's had issues with this. Ours did from day one.
 

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What is the issue?

I seem to think most 650's had issues with this. Ours did from day one.
My old 950; big brother to the 650 had to be stopped dead before engaging a gear. The clutch linkage didn't had much latitude for adjustment. Seems it was always tighter than I'd like it to be. Just the right amount of free play in my opinion resulted in insufficient disengagement. Never had any other issues though. A few adjustments over about 2,000 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I finally got this sorted out. The issue was that the ebay clutch kit that I bought had a faulty pressure plate. The ebay seller sent another disc and PP and now the tractor is working as it should. The manual does not have a miss print. The clutch disc does go in with the long side out as the manual states and other folks here said that too.
 
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