Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey friends - I have a JD 6x4 gator (gas) that started slipping yesterday. This am I drove it into my woods to dump a load of manure and there it now remains... Lifted the box and I saw that the passenger side chain is on the ground. It dawned on me tonight that I may be able to lock the rear differential to drive it out of the woods? Will this work? Just need a way of getting it back to the barn to work on it. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,649 Posts
I have no ideas to help you, but I will reply to the thread to "bump" it back to the top of the "new posts" list.

Good luck! I know you'll be able to get this fixed based on your tenacity when it came to fixing the overheating problem you had! :good2:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,563 Posts
Never seen this model but....

If there are two chains from the transmission/differential to the rear wheels the differential lock should work.

I don't think it would hurt to try. Just go easy and if it doesn't complain, head for the barn.

I take it you don't have anything to tow it with?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,428 Posts
YES, locking the differential will work. That is how JD "makes this 4 wheel drive" You will have three wheel drive until you get the missing chain on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thank you all so much - It worked!!! All night I tossed and turned wondering how I was going to drag this thing out of the woods back to the barn. I was so relieved when I locked the rear dif and it started to move. Woohoo! Limped it back to the barn and will pull the rear tire off and attempt to put the chain back on. The chain is intact, so not sure how it came off? Their wasn’t much slop in the chain, but apparently enough. Thanks again!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,428 Posts
Was the rear axle assembly loose? IIRC moving it is what adjusts the chain tightness. Or the chain has stretched and had not been adjusted. Or possibly a stick got between the chain and sprocket and derailed the chain? Good luck getting it back together.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
140 Posts
Hey friends - I have a JD 6x4 gator (gas) that started slipping yesterday. This am I drove it into my woods to dump a load of manure and there it now remains... Lifted the box and I saw that the passenger side chain is on the ground. It dawned on me tonight that I may be able to lock the rear differential to drive it out of the woods? Will this work? Just need a way of getting it back to the barn to work on it. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
Well, Glad You made it back to barn and with the Gator as well, Just a quick note there is an adjustment on the back of the gator to adjust the chain. also you will need to remove the rear wheel and loosen the bolts on the axle hub, ( JUST LOOSNE THEM ) a little as that will give you enough movement to loosen then put chain on and tighten the chain enough. You will need to have about 1/2-3/4" of play on top of chain loop. Hope this helps. GOOD LUCK. :bigthumb:

WALTMART
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thank you, thank you for the diagram as well as the advice on how to get the chain back on! I’m hoping to work on it this weekend. I think I’m up for the repair... just need time on task. Looks like chain is intact, but not sure why it slipped off. Maybe it has stretched, maybe it was loose... ? I oiled the chains a few months back and they were adjusted then. Who knows. I’ll let you all know how it goes this weekend. Thanks again!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
140 Posts
Thank you, thank you for the diagram as well as the advice on how to get the chain back on! I’m hoping to work on it this weekend. I think I’m up for the repair... just need time on task. Looks like chain is intact, but not sure why it slipped off. Maybe it has stretched, maybe it was loose... ? I oiled the chains a few months back and they were adjusted then. Who knows. I’ll let you all know how it goes this weekend. Thanks again!
I've noticed several times of adjusting the chain slack, that if the bolts on the axle hubs are not tight enough they seem to slide back and will cause chain slack to become extreme. (can hear it when driving it). You will get er done. I replaced the chains some years back and they do stretch over time, I suggest loosen the adjusters out all the way and that gives you better length to adjust the slack out of chain.

GOOD LUCK, YOU WILL GET IT!!

WALTMART
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,428 Posts
Thank you, thank you for the diagram as well as the advice on how to get the chain back on! I’m hoping to work on it this weekend. I think I’m up for the repair... just need time on task. Looks like chain is intact, but not sure why it slipped off. Maybe it has stretched, maybe it was loose... ? I oiled the chains a few months back and they were adjusted then. Who knows. I’ll let you all know how it goes this weekend. Thanks again!
Good see you will tackle this job your self. :good2:

I am in South West MI, we might be neighbors!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
So, I decided to tackle the chain tonight. Lug nuts were TOUGH, but I got a bar and was able to use leverage to get them off. Axel carriage bolts were also tough to loosen, but I got it done. To my surprise, that axel didn’t budge with the bolts quite loose? I even “persuaded” it with a hammer and nothing. I was able to get the chain back on though. With the back end jacked up, I could spin the front wheel manually to work the chain back over the back sprocket. The tensioner bolt on the back has me a little confused. If you tighten that bolt, it theoretically pulls back on the chain, right? Unfortunately, I think the nut has rounded. Ugh. Not sure what can be done about that given the location? The 10mm deep socket fit snugly, but it slips. So, that leaves me with the chain put back on, but not really any tighter. When I pinch the chain in the center I would guess there is 1.5” between them. Does that sound too loose? I drove it around the yard and so far so good, but I’m leery now. Waltmart - could you explain a little more where I would be checking for 1/2-3/4” slack? Thanks everyone!!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,428 Posts
To measure chain slack

Jack up side to be measured
Park brake ON
Rotate rear most tire forward. This tensions the bottom run of the chain and puts all the slack in the top run of the chain.
Measure the chain slack 1/2 way between the two sprockets at the top run of the chain.
A straight edge across the top run of the chain will make measuring easier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,451 Posts
The diagram in the illustration contained in my post #8 of this thread shows the chain slack and how it is measured at call-out bubble "A" in the picture. This manual excerpt also mentions that the tension-er is not robust enough to actually move the axle location, but rather to hold things in place when re-tightening the axle to frame bolts (see the second column of text...)

Chuck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Thank you both! I guess I needed to look closer at the diagram. Obviously I overlooked the chain tension part. Will do. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
140 Posts
So, I decided to tackle the chain tonight. Lug nuts were TOUGH, but I got a bar and was able to use leverage to get them off. Axel carriage bolts were also tough to loosen, but I got it done. To my surprise, that axel didn’t budge with the bolts quite loose? I even “persuaded” it with a hammer and nothing. I was able to get the chain back on though. With the back end jacked up, I could spin the front wheel manually to work the chain back over the back sprocket. The tensioner bolt on the back has me a little confused. If you tighten that bolt, it theoretically pulls back on the chain, right? Unfortunately, I think the nut has rounded. Ugh. Not sure what can be done about that given the location? The 10mm deep socket fit snugly, but it slips. So, that leaves me with the chain put back on, but not really any tighter. When I pinch the chain in the center I would guess there is 1.5” between them. Does that sound too loose? I drove it around the yard and so far so good, but I’m leery now. Waltmart - could you explain a little more where I would be checking for 1/2-3/4” slack? Thanks everyone!!
I will do my best,
The adjuster has a square head on it that fits in the rear of axle hub, Hopefully it is not stripped and will set back in the slot for it? As mentioned in the later post a straight edge is ideal for the slack in chain after the adjuster is back on. Is seems complicated but after doing this several times and replacing chains for other it is well worth the extra time to do. I have taken the adjuster out and cleaned it well before reinstalling it. IT DOES HELP!! Yes the hub bolts are tight as all get out and can seem to be welded in place after they set for the period we wait to adjust chains, But after you get it right I can almost promise it won't strand you due to chain slipping off again. GOOD LUCK, Sounds like you are close to winning this battle. HOPE THIS ASSISTED YOU SOME,

I just looked through the shop manual and couldn't find anything on the adjustment bolt/screw. But you found it and yes I believe it is a 10MM.

WALTMART
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,428 Posts
Here is a page shot from the TM1518 service manual on this topic --- let me know if you need a larger excerpt on other related areas of access, etc.



Chuck
Poor engineering on JD'd part to have an "adjuster" that can't be used to "adjust" :nunu::mocking:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
140 Posts
Poor engineering on JD'd part to have an "adjuster" that can't be used to "adjust" :nunu::mocking:
The adjuster works well, one needs to be sure the bolts on the hubs are loosened and enough so the rear hub can move easily. That area seems to stick and I understand that part!!! It can be frustrating and after the bolts are loosened then the adjuster used. If they aren't loose enough then the adjuster will either strip or be damaged do to excessive force trying to get the hub to pull back for adjusting the chain. That is what I have run into in the past. The adjusters are light weights. They can not be used before the bolts are loosened or you will damage them. Just my past observation and dealings with the chain adjusting situation. Please don't take this as a personnel attack not meant to be. HAVE A GREAT DAY!

I agree with the comment, on poor engineering. At the same time the punishment that these machines take, the hubs must be torquered to spec or they will move and chain will have to much slack. The frustrating part is that the shop manual doesn't state anything about the ADJUSTER, SHAME ON John Deere! for that SLIP UP

WALTMART
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top