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My 70 diesel is hard or almost impossible to engage gears . I took clutch apart but i dont know if disks pads or plates are to worn . Any help is appreciated !
 

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The 820 I ran,,, you needed to engage the pulley brake occasionally to shift.
You do that by pulling back on the clutch lever,,,

Maybe that little pad needs replaced?
 

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These are not synchronized transmissions. You have to stop the tractor and the clutch to shift gears. You don't have to have the clutch stopped 100%, sometimes a little rotation will help line up the teeth of the gear you're trying to engage. The clutch has a brake pad on the front that must be properly adjusted to bring the clutch to a stop when the handle is pulled to the rear. If this pad is worn out, it will cause your issues.
 

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As previously noted the brake is there to assist in stopping the clutch and shifting. The adjustment of the clutch is also important. Too tight will not disengage without a lot of brake pressure on it. Needs to be tight enough to just snap in when engaged. Not too loose, not really tight. Seems to me my 720 had a force for snapping in place spec in the owners manual. Unfortunately I sold tractor 15 years ago.


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The tractor is at a standstill when experiencing this. Does anyone the thickness of clutch material or what it is supposed to be?
 

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More detailed,,, it is coming back,, 5 decades later,,,
with the right hand, pull to the rear on the clutch,,, to stop the pulley,
with the left hand,, "attempt" to put the tractor in gear,
the gearshift will normally not go into gear,, this is normal.
with the left hand, keep pressure on the gearshift lever,,, we will get there,
with the right hand, move the clutch lever forward,,, very s l o w l y ,,,
at some point, the pulley will roll just enough to allow the gears to mesh,,
the gearshift will "jump" into gear.

As I remember it,, this was required almost EVERY shift.

Will your tractor do this?? :dunno:
 

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The tractor is at a standstill when experiencing this. Does anyone the thickness of clutch material or what it is supposed to be?
The part number for the replacement is AB4748R (probably has a new number now). Check one at your dealer to see how thick it is.

That part number is hanging around in my brain from over thirty years ago, so don't shoot me it is incorrect. I'm betting that your dealer will have them in stock.
 

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The clutch should snap in and snap out. There's a fine line been really nice and just OK in the adjustments. New springs might help also. We replaced the pads, springs and brake pad. That really made a difference.
 

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I'm not convinced that there is anything wrong with your clutch. The trans on my G and my grandpa's 70d (essentially the same transmission) were always a bear to shift. If the clutch is worn out, the symptoms would be different; it won't be able to hold the power and it will slip under a load. A worn clutch will cause a shudder as it slips under a heavy load such as plowing. Now if the clutch isn't properly adjusted it could be not completely dis-engaged and sending just enough power into the trans to keep it from un-loading the gears. that could make it hard to get out of gear, but it would cause the gears to grind when you tried to engage a different gear.

I recommend trying the 'slip into gear' method that has already been suggested. The trans in a 70d isn't like the trans in your truck. The gears are about ten time bigger and they have teeth bigger than a tiger's. Little gears with little teeth mesh easier than big gears with big teeth. Odds are they simply aren't perfectly lining up. Slowly (really slowly) slip the clutch with your right hand while shifting with your left.

These old machines are fun to operate because you simply do not have enough hands for all the controls at once!
 
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