80's 212 Electrical issues
So I've been having issues with the 212. It was sitting for years before we got it, just put new fuel in and it ran. We brought it home put a fresh paint job on. It started acting up and only starting intermittently, tapping the starter with a hammer helped. I started investigating and I found the starter solenoid was wearing out. I replaced that then it started every time. I went out to test it out, the pto engaged. Mowed for a bit then tried to start it again but it whirred and died. I pulled it apart again and there were wires wrapped around the pto lever linkage inside. I dealt with that then it seemed like the starter was dead. We think it's because it tried to start with the blades engaged. I also checked out the electric lift and it only went one way. So I looked at the solenoid for that and found that the ground wire inside had come apart. So I fixed the lift solenoid. Then I pulled out the starter, disassembled it, cleaned it, put it back together, bench tested and it worked. So I put it back in. Everything should work now right? Wrong. The lights won't turn on, the electric lift won't work. Nothing works. Sounds like a ground issue right? So I kept searching. I found a few bad connections. I fixed them then looked at all the safety switches and bypassed them all. Turned the key, no lights, turn to start, the starter turned sluggishly for about a second then died. Any help would be a life saver. I am running out of ideas. I tested the whole wiring harness and it is good. The battery cables are good. The solenoids pass the bench test. I took out the circuit breaker too. I wanted it to be as simple as possible so it would work even if it's more dangerous. I can wire in the safety switches after I know everything else is right. Does anyone have any ideas?
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Tinker, You say you want simple, start with the battery! Check voltage before starting, check voltage when cranking. Also, measure voltage at battery terminals and then at starter terminal with battery cable. If voltage drops when cranking... like from 12.7ish down to 7, take battery to auto parts store for load test. As far as lights not working, could be bad ignition or light switch...or ground at lights! Bob
As an additional comment, I like your schematic! It looks 100% correct and should work as drawn. In case you want or need it, here the genuine JD schematic...not serial number breaks:2xx_Wiring_Diagrams.pdf
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Thank you for the suggestions, I measured voltage and it drops dramatically when the key turns to run ~1.7v then jumps up again at start to about 3.5v... then when I turn it to off it only goes back to about 7v and slowly climbs back up. Weird! It was a new battery before all this.
A new battery can fail, and it sounds like a failing battery, but do some more checking. It sounds like you've got one hell-u-ya draw on the battery! Disconnect wires...best done at key switch... from regulator, lights, and coil. Check if voltage drops to 1.7 in "Run". If not, connect one wire at a time and check colts in "Run". When voltage drops repeats, there's your issue! If it still drops with reg, coil, & lights disconnected, NO CLUE!
Because voltage climbs al little when going to "Start", I'm thinking light wiring is an issue. This circuit is eliminated in "Start" position. Voltage readings in general seem low, have battery load checked. Bob
Because voltage climbs al little when going to "Start", I'm thinking light wiring is an issue. This circuit is eliminated in "Start" position. Voltage readings in general seem low, have battery load checked. Bob
It sounds like a burnt out self resetting breaker.So I've been having issues with the 212. It was sitting for years before we got it, just put new fuel in and it ran. We brought it home put a fresh paint job on. It started acting up and only starting intermittently, tapping the starter with a hammer helped. I started investigating and I found the starter solenoid was wearing out. I replaced that then it started every time. I went out to test it out, the pto engaged. Mowed for a bit then tried to start it again but it whirred and died. I pulled it apart again and there were wires wrapped around the pto lever linkage inside. I dealt with that then it seemed like the starter was dead. We think it's because it tried to start with the blades engaged. I also checked out the electric lift and it only went one way. So I looked at the solenoid for that and found that the ground wire inside had come apart. So I fixed the lift solenoid. Then I pulled out the starter, disassembled it, cleaned it, put it back together, bench tested and it worked. So I put it back in. Everything should work now right? Wrong. The lights won't turn on, the electric lift won't work. Nothing works. Sounds like a ground issue right? So I kept searching. I found a few bad connections. I fixed them then looked at all the safety switches and bypassed them all. Turned the key, no lights, turn to start, the starter turned sluggishly for about a second then died. Any help would be a life saver. I am running out of ideas. I tested the whole wiring harness and it is good. The battery cables are good. The solenoids pass the bench test. I took out the circuit breaker too. I wanted it to be as simple as possible so it would work even if it's more dangerous. I can wire in the safety switches after I know everything else is right. Does anyone have any ideas?
That supplies power to the ignition which then feeds it out to the other components.
Are those measurements on the battery terminals, or on wires?Thank you for the suggestions, I measured voltage and it drops dramatically when the key turns to run ~1.7v then jumps up again at start to about 3.5v... then when I turn it to off it only goes back to about 7v and slowly climbs back up. Weird! It was a new battery before all this.
The battery DID fail. After disconnecting the accessory circuit, I discovered the large draw was coming from the electric lift, where the linkage needed adjusting to disengage the up position to neutral. After changing the battery and making the adjustment everything worked properly. Thank you Bob for suggesting the load test. 🙏 You made a world of difference.
Tinker, That's why we're here, to help! When you mentioned the battery SLOWLY climbing back up in voltage, that really made me think it was the battery! Without acually being there nd checking this, that, and the other, we can seldom say, 'It's definitely the .....,' but we can suggest other items. A voltmeter is a good starting point, but a load test will give you the final answer if a battery is good or bad.
I'm glad everything worked out for you. Please post any additional issues that you run into. There's no such thing as a foolish or dumb question, only those that you don't ask! Also, posting the solution is excellent, as you did do, as many are here following and may have the same or similar issue(s). Bob
I'm glad everything worked out for you. Please post any additional issues that you run into. There's no such thing as a foolish or dumb question, only those that you don't ask! Also, posting the solution is excellent, as you did do, as many are here following and may have the same or similar issue(s). Bob
Op, thanks for posting the solution.
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I always thought it was the person receiving help that determined how helpful the advice they received was, not the person who gave it, but I guess times are changing.
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I always thought it was the person receiving help that determined how helpful the advice they received was, not the person who gave it, but I guess times are changing.
I love how it seems that the only real failings of the 200 series are electrical. 😂
For a roughly 40 year old machine that's not too bad.
For a roughly 40 year old machine that's not too bad.
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