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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My tractor is an 830 3cyl gen II, serial 1465XX L. Just a couple years ago the injection pump was leaking and sent off for a complete rebuild. It hasn't leaked since but... a small leak has just started where one of the fuel injector lines attaches to the valve (AT29464). I am hesitant to touch the high pressure stuff without guidance from those in-the-know.

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See attached picture, I have circled where the stream/spray is coming from. On the breakdown/parts list when the line is attached it appears you have a washer closest to the tractor (T20055), then the line, then another second washer farther away from the tractor, and finally the valve goes through these and screws in. The valve looks like it may have some type of black/rubber washer on it before the listed washer. The spray/stream is coming from around that second washer (the one between the line fitting and the valve head). Generally the valve is just wet with a slow drip, but every so often I see a very tiny stream shooting out around the second washer.

Normally I would think it's just loose and needs to be tightened. Can I just put a wrench on the valve head and tighten to see if the leak stops, or will that actually change an adjustment related to timing for that cylinder if it's screwed in more? Should I get two replacement washers regardless? Probably a silly question to the seasoned veterans here, but not knowing - I just want to make sure I'm not opening a can of worms I cant deal with. Also, the parts manual shows T20055 washers used on each side. Looking those up online they all appear to be black rubber, but the JD technical manual clearly states to be sure and uses copper washers on each side of the banjo. If I need new washers I don't want to get rubber if copper is called out.....

Thanks for any pointers folks!!

Jay
 

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I don't remember if the T20055 are copper or steel, but they are not rubber. Your dealer should have them in stock. Be sure to torque the bolt to the proper spec when you reassemble. Probably TexJim and Flyweight will see your post also. There knowledge is much more current than mine. If they suggest something different, do what they say.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks DRobinson! The technical manual for the 830 lists the torque. I am going from memory but I think it was 21.5. I was just looking at a few "T20055" on ebay and amazon, and they all looked like black rubber. Eyesight is the first thing to go though.....
 

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I suggest to attempt to tighten attaching bolt a little more & if that doesn't stop then new washers are next to R&R. According to 830 parts catalog T20055 is the correct part #. CD16374 is the part # utilized in same application for later style washer on a 55 series inj line. 23 ft #s torque is what my 2040 tech manual states with similar fuel injection system
 

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Loosen and re-tighten, it may re-seat itself. It can be done while the engine is running or stopped.
If that doesn't stop the leak, replace the steel washers(#21) in the image Tx Jim posted.
 

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My 2030 had that same leak. I worried tightening might break the banjo bolt, so I replaced the washers. I bought extras to have on hand.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I checked for the torque spec and found in the 830 technical manual TM-4279 (Feb-73) Section 30 Group 15 page 15-6:

"Install fuel lines and pressurizing valves (See fig. 4). Be sure to use a copper washer on both sides of fuel line banjo. Tighten pressurizing valves to 3mkp (21.5 ft.lbs.) torque."

I'll do as flyweight and Tx Jim suggested. Loosen a bit, tighten to spec, and see if leak goes away; If not replace washers with T20055. If the washers need to be replaced, is it ok to remove the valve with the tractor just powered off or is there a need/procedure to bleed off pressure before removing the valve completely?

Thanks so much for the pointers - much appreciated!!

Jay
 

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I just thought newer designed washer might seal off fuel easier. I did notice newer style washer was about 5X as much $$$ as the older part #
I wonder what's different to make it cost 5x more?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Tightened that valve bolt down to spec (it was a little loose) and drove it for half an hour. I don't see any more leak so... problem appears to be solved. I'll keep an eye on it next week or two when I get back to the farm and drive it a bit more. Sorry to have asked what is probably such a simple question, but new to this and want to be sure. I am curious though, my technical manual is dated 73, but as I understand it the 830 was only made in 74 & 75. Thanks!
 
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