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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought this tractor, started and ran, mowed fine, but when we did the deal and I went to load it, it would not start. The guy messed around a few minutes and bumped a wire and got it running so I took it.
I got it home and mowed about a half hour and had to leave, so I parked it. When I came back, it would not start. Here is what I do know.
Dash lights light as they should.
Turn key, nothing, not a peep, like there is no battery connected.
New key switch was installed
Starter helper relay installed, but I am not getting power to the purple wire at the starter. (.07 volts)
All safety switches appear to be working as should (tested 12 volts all the way through.)
If I turn the key to start, to get a reading, I noticed smoke rolling from the neutral safety wires and they were hot. I have 12 volts both sides of the switch.
I would assume at this point that I have a short somewhere, however, nothing noticeable, is there a common known place a short would happen? Or where should I be looking for one?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I agree with a short in the neutral loop. I’m not aware of any common areas
 

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Here's a bunch of wiring diagrams check that 25 amp circuit breaker that's under battery bolted to tin make sure it's not shorting to ground cause there's some ground wires right underneath it. Check main ground on motor and for pinched wires
783163
783164
783165
783166
 

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A dead short should take out the 20 amp fuse and having 12v on both sides of neutral switch tells me issue is passed the neutral switch.
With pto off, in neutral, and brake set, turn key to "Run" and see if wires get warm. I'm thinking starter relay coil is shorted, drawing to many amps, and heating wires. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
A dead short should take out the 20 amp fuse and having 12v on both sides of neutral switch tells me issue is passed the neutral switch.
With pto off, in neutral, and brake set, turn key to "Run" and see if wires get warm. I'm thinking starter relay coil is shorted, drawing to many amps, and heating wires. Bob
Hmm.....
  1. 20 amp fuse is gone, wired solid (I will be correcting that)
  2. Circuit breaker has 12 volts both sides
  3. I have 12 volts both sides of safety switch
  4. The neutral safety switch wires are getting hot, even when bypassing the switch. Which would lead me to the next switch, the PTO?
  5. Seat switch has been bypassed, nothing visual there
  6. Purple safety wire runs to starter, where one connects the relay, has about .007~8 volts (now wired in relay) not as if I thought that would help, but eh, tried it anyway
  7. Brand new key switch installed
I would assume a short, but tracking that is getting to me, as nothing is visual.
Should I bypass all switches to verify switches are not shorted? I don't have brake switch.

Thank you much!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here's a bunch of wiring diagrams check that 25 amp circuit breaker that's under battery bolted to tin make sure it's not shorting to ground cause there's some ground wires right underneath it. Check main ground on motor and for pinched wires

Thank you! I have been through this wiring diagram several times and everything checks as it should, excepting whatever I am missing which appears to be a short.
I don't see pinched wires, everything moves freely, or seems to.
The circuit breaker has 12 volts either side, are you saying that might be shorting?
Also, the hot wires at the neutral switch, even bypassed.

View attachment 783163 View attachment 783164 View attachment 783165 View attachment 783166
 

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Are you checking voltage at purple wire on solenoid with wire connected? If so, disconnect wire from stud and check voltage. It's possible solenoid is bad and that's what's drawing the high amperage. REPLACE FUSE ASAP! You could have a ball of flame instead of a tractor! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Are you checking voltage at purple wire on solenoid with wire connected? If so, disconnect wire from stud and check voltage. It's possible solenoid is bad and that's what's drawing the high amperage. REPLACE FUSE ASAP! You could have a ball of flame instead of a tractor! Bob
Oh my, thats a good question and never dawned on me. It also gives me another clue. I will check this when I get a minute.
Yes, that was my first plan, until that became the 2nd. I am replacing both with blade fuses.

Thank you again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Are you checking voltage at purple wire on solenoid with wire connected? If so, disconnect wire from stud and check voltage. It's possible solenoid is bad and that's what's drawing the high amperage. REPLACE FUSE ASAP! You could have a ball of flame instead of a tractor! Bob
UPDATE:
I disconnected the purple wire from the starter to test, got .7 volts and the neutral switch wires still got hot.
My friend asked me, what is this time delay box? Could it be shorted? I did not want to tear into it, breaking the seal or whatever as it didn't sound like the issue. But, we decided to open it up and check. There was really no seal to speak of and everything seemed normal, no dark spots visible. So we put it back together.
Plugged the purple wire back to starter, hit the key and blam, the thing started turning over! It quit a couple times and as we bumped some wiring it would start rolling again. And the neutral wires don't get hot now?
Is it possible that the positive cable may be bad, as the small wire that runs to the breaker appears like it might fall off.
We turned it a lot, but never got it started, didn't have starter fluid handy. But, I know it will start when I get back at it.
I will change out the cable next and hopefully it will run!

Any other thoughts?
 

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I'm thinking, more like guessing, you've got a frayed wire or possibly corroded connection in the neutral switch plug. It may also be the neutral switch itself. Unplug switch and ohm out switch... should be 0 ohms. No clue how to check wire other than visual! Ohm reading will be REAL small... if wire is 14 ga. & 4' long, it should have 0.001 ohms! To visually inspect, wire & terminal need to be removed from plug. I don't know if you've removed wires from plugs before, but here's how:

On the end of the plug that goes onto the switch is a rectangular opening encasing the terminal. There is also a small rectangular opening on the same end. Push a jewelers screwdriver into the small opening and wiggle while applying gentle pressure on the wire to pull it out of the plug. There's a small tang sticking up on the terminal. The screwdriver depresses the tang and allows the wire & terminal to be removed. When reassembling, the tang may need to be bent up again.

For now, that's all I've got! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
UPDATE: Gave it a squirt of starting fluid, turned the key and blam, running. I put everything together, mower on, corrected some other issues, then it wouldn't start again. I played with the positive cable a lot, I think that is my issue, the wire that runs away to the breaker. I finally got it started and mowed with it and was almost done when I had the issue again. I am going to order a new cable and install it and pray thats it.

Other than that, the tractor ran great and mowed good. It still needs some TLC, lipstick and such, but once it runs good, the other stuff is no big deal.

I did install the original deluxe suspension seat with flip and brand new replacement seat, its amazing!
 
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