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I don't know if there is something I'm missing but you push the 4x4 switch and thats it right? Because that sure didn't work for me.

Was checking on some irrigation after a heavy rain with my 7 year old daughter and we got stuck. Pushed the 4x4 switch and... nothing. Front tires never moved an inch. Tried the transfer lock and nothing different. I tried forward, reverse, high and low and those front wheels never turned at all.

I was already upset that this JD is a underpowered expensive piece of garbage but now this is just too much. We had to walk a mile in the mud to get a tractor to pull it out.

I absolutely abhor this machine
 

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[h=3]Using Four Wheel Drive[/h] 4WD On-Demand enables the front wheels to drive, but torque will not be applied until rear wheels begin to slip.

4WD On-Demand greatly increases traction and may make dangerously sloped terrain accessible, increasing possibility of a tip-over.
Use extra caution when driving on slopes. Use 4WD On-Demand when driving on slopes to increase traction.
Use 4WD On-Demand when driving on icy, wet or graveled surfaces; reduce speed to avoid skidding and loss of steering control.
Engaging 4WD On-Demand when the machine is stopped and the rear wheels are spinning will damage the gears.

  • Push in on top of 2WD/4WD switch to enable the 4WD On-Demand system.
  • Push in on bottom of switch to disable the system.
Front implements may cause decreased traction at the rear wheels resulting in loss of control. Always operate machine with 4WD On-Demand engaged when front implements are attached.

[h=4]Tips for operating 4WD On-Demand:[/h] Occasionally the 4WD On-Demand system will not disengage after a change in vehicle travel direction. This is known as “wedging.” If this does occur, the vehicle will exhibit higher than usual steering efforts and driveline wind-up. To disengage (un-wedge) the system, reverse the direction of vehicle travel.

  • Maintain recommended front and rear tire pressures to ensure optimum performance on all surface conditions.
  • Disable 4WD On-Demand when driving machine on paved or hard packed surfaces to increase front tire life and reduce drive train wear.
 

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Yes thats exactly correct and everything was slipping. It just would not go into 4x4 for anything.

I have no idea how a brand new machine like this can already be showing problems.
I have no clue how the 4WD actually works, I'd call the dealer.
 

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Yes thats exactly correct and everything was slipping......
Were you stopped, with the rear wheels spinning or were you stopped without the rear wheels spinning?
 

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I don’t know how these systems work....but I know with my pickup with the automatic locking hubs you have to be moving for them to engage. Let’s say you park somewhere in 2WD. Come back and it’s a sheet of ice and you can’t move an inch in 2WD. The 4WD will not engage if the front wheels can’t move a couple feet forward.

Maybe the same thing is happening here?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Were you stopped, with the rear wheels spinning or were you stopped without the rear wheels spinning?
We were driving, stopped to check something, got back in after a bit and never got traction. I wasn't expecting for the tires to have gotten bogged down at that moment. So yes it was stopped.

If the front wheels need to be moving for them to lock in then that really stinks.

On my old Kymco when you pressed the 4x4 you heard them activate and that was that. None of the "must slip first" stuff.
 

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We were driving, stopped to check something, got back in after a bit and never got traction. I wasn't expecting for the tires to have gotten bogged down at that moment. So yes it was stopped.

If the front wheels need to be moving for them to lock in then that really stinks.

On my old Kymco when you pressed the 4x4 you heard them activate and that was that. None of the "must slip first" stuff.
I've said it before on here
Some reading... https://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/gators-utvs-atvs-other-recreational-vehicles/93930-2011-825i-4-wheel-drive-not-engaging.html
 

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I don’t know how these systems work....but I know with my pickup with the automatic locking hubs you have to be moving for them to engage. Let’s say you park somewhere in 2WD. Come back and it’s a sheet of ice and you can’t move an inch in 2WD. The 4WD will not engage if the front wheels can’t move a couple feet forward.

Maybe the same thing is happening here?
yelp i found out the hard way on my 79 ford f-250-that even with locking hubs(the old ones u had to turn by hand) that u had to have the truck move then to engage the short shaft inside. i got stuck on the job one day-got out turned hubs in--got back inside--pulled lever on transfer case-and nuthing. ended up from spinning it messed up threads on the short shaft-this was all after we got my truck unstuck--and it probably hadn't helped that up to that time-i had never taken the hubs apart to clean and replace the old grease inside there.

after that time and too this day-i always shift to neutral to put my truck into 4 wheel drive-if i was going down the road i always slid the tranny into neutral. so far -fingers crossed i have never had any troubles.

on my 835R--i find i used the rear diff lock a lot last winter while plowing snow. but i also had 4 wheel drive on too.
as far as tire pressure i jack the fronts up to 30 lbs on account of how heavy the new plow felt--and it steered a whole better going over to my aunts place-at 14 psi-front end leaned bad on curves--rears i set at 24 psi with the 100 lbs added in bed for extra weight-or ballast for the plow on.

to the OP-i would think that if rear tires was spinning then front tires should have helped spin--i say take it to the dealer--maybe a faulty switch-sensor broke--something is wrong:dunno::dunno:

good luck-and let su know what u make out on it.
 

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yelp i found out the hard way on my 79 ford f-250-that even with locking hubs(the old ones u had to turn by hand) that u had to have the truck move then to engage the short shaft inside. i got stuck on the job one day-got out turned hubs in--got back inside--pulled lever on transfer case-and nuthing. ended up from spinning it messed up threads on the short shaft-this was all after we got my truck unstuck--and it probably hadn't helped that up to that time-i had never taken the hubs apart to clean and replace the old grease inside there.

after that time and too this day-i always shift to neutral to put my truck into 4 wheel drive-if i was going down the road i always slid the tranny into neutral. so far -fingers crossed i have never had any troubles.



good luck-and let su know what u make out on it.
On the topic of Ford F250 hubs:

I've had the front hubs fail to engage on old yeller too (lack of maintenance :hide:) sometimes jacking the front up and hand turning the wheel will get the hub to engage. The grease gets hard and the engagement spring in the hub is not strong enough to engage the hub internals to the axle end.

Now I leave my hubs locked all winter. Fulltime 4x4 trucks of that era came with hubs you could not unlock. Then years later Ford changed to auto locking hubs. Then they went to an axle disconnect. Now I think hubs are non unlocking and the transfer case is where the engagement for 4x4 happens. I glad I have a 40+ year old truck. :pickup:

OK, back to topic :hi:
 

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Homer says "D'oh!

Ok, this doesn't apply to my Gator TX (2wd) , but this thread left me scratching my head. The 4wd only works when the rear wheels are spinning , but you cant engage 4wd when spinning? But if you are stuck , the 4wd wont engage because the gator is not moving...but if you are moving you are not stuck?

So the solution is to just leave the 4wd button engaged?
 

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Ok, this doesn't apply to my Gator TX (2wd) , but this thread left me scratching my head. The 4wd only works when the rear wheels are spinning , but you cant engage 4wd when spinning? But if you are stuck , the 4wd wont engage because the gator is not moving...but if you are moving you are not stuck?

So the solution is to just leave the 4wd button engaged?
From my observation, you can engage it when you are not moving, but it doesn’t “kick in”until your rear wheels are spinning faster than the front wheels. It does kinda suck, because your tear up your grass or whatever your on before it kicks in.
I suppose you could leave it switched on though.
 

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It is my understanding the rear wheels must spin 15% faster than the front wheels, in order for the clutch in the front differential to engage the front wheels.

That said, we all must learn to anticipate needing 4WD. Obviously the OP did not realize the need to engage the front end before they sunk the Gator in mud/water.

I don’t recall did the OP try to engage the rear differential lock?
 
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