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Discussion Starter #1
what would cause the engine not to keep up with the PTO on. the tractor is fine without the PTO on. I just put all new spindle barrings and spindles on the 54" deck. the gear box is fine. when you turn on the PTO the engine speed does not keep up and just bogs down.
 

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With your description; it sounds like my JD345. Nothing wrong with my mower deck, but it will bog down at times mowing, kill the PTO and regain RPMs. I know I have replaced every fuel system component and still acts up. So I am moving to the ignition searching for issues.
 

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what would cause the engine not to keep up with the PTO on. the tractor is fine without the PTO on. I just put all new spindle barrings and spindles on the 54" deck. the gear box is fine. when you turn on the PTO the engine speed does not keep up and just bogs down.
Have you tried engaging PTO with mower shaft disconnected? If it does it under those circumstances, it's likely in the tranny. Try changing HST fluid and filter.
 

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We need a bit more information to help. How many hours are on the machine and has anything been done to it lately? Have you just noticed this happening or is it a new to you tractor?

It almost sounds like you are low on HP or the governor is messed up or out of adjustment. I would check to make sure as well that you have both cylinders firing consistently. If a cylinder is down or very low on power, you will get full regular RPM but with a load, it won't be able to keep up.
 

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Make sure both cylinders are firing. With engine running, remove one spark plug wire at a time. Engine should continue to run on other cylinder. If engine stalls, the other cylinder is dead. Find out why.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just bought the tractor early this summer. It ran fine until now. It has roughly 1100 hours on it. I have it a relatives shop now. He found the carb was very loose on the intake. And the one spark plug wire was very loose on the plug. He is also thinking the governor is broken. He is going to go over the engine. It also has a bit of oil blow by. So looking into that too
 

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Has the CAM ever been changed? If not may as well do that, along with governor gear, water pump, oil pump, push rods, valve springs, etc. All in about $600 if you do it yourself.
 

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Water pump has been and cam gear. Already bought the governor.
Someone went to all that trouble to tear the engine down for the cam and didn't put a new governor gear and oil pump in? You have the thing completely torn apart, why not replace everything while in there? If burning oil, valve seals and springs may be all that is needed for that. And hopefully the push rods and tippets were changed with the cam. There are a bunch of O-rings and seals too that should be changed. For me the hardest to get on without leaking was the front pto seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
did a compression check both cylinders were 175 PSI is that right? the piston walls and rings are fine. getting seals and parts to rebuild the heads. the carb was really gunked up and the choke was sticking.
 

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I'm wondering about an update on this thread. Anything truly fixed and repaired on the issue?

Ware I am at;
On my 345, with new carb, fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel filter, pick up tube in the tank. I threw in the towel and let an older guy look at it. The next Saturday He said it was done and take it home and, my problem was the fuel filter was on backwards. "Ohh ok.... I'm a dumb @ss." So I Took it to his daughter's place about 2 miles up the road and same issue. He looked at the fuel pump and said I had it connected wrong. "I'm not sure how that is because I mowed 10+ acres with the pump that way but... fix it." As it started up, I saw the fuel filter with gas pumping towards the tank. From their "I" looked at the fuel filter and the arrow was going to the tank. not the engine. So after the fuel pump back to the tank for a while, it has been fine with about 2 acres of mowing on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here is a update. Tore the engine Down for a rebuild replaced all the seals and gaskets. Rebuilt the carb. Also once tore down we found the key way on the flywheel and crank shaft was wore out and bad. It was wore down about .005". Causing the flywheel to be loose on the crank. Got a bigger key cut and a matching key. Put it all back together and now it runs great and smooth.
 
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