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A Ballast Box Modification

13598 Views 24 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  RandyM
3
Well, here is my rendition of making a ballast box more user friendly. Please note that the tool box lid is not only held open but also closed by the air spring. The box construction is aluminum. I also added tool holders to the sides.

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Ok, talk me through this. I was talking about doing this in this thread.
http://www.greentractortalk.com/for...nd-didn-t-for-get-the-crowbar&p=1645#post1645

So, did you start with the JD box extension, or is it all from scratch. I am thinking of using the heaviest materials I can find to add to the weight...
Well, my ballast box showed up with the optional extension kit (have a good dealer). I just thought the additional space would work well for extra tools and chains. I didn't think my machines need the additional weight it would provide.
Randy, you do good work- both this and the lights.
Excellent work!...only change I'd make is to make it water-tite, put a drain bung on it and insulate it...Perfect carrier for ice and adult beverages...LOL.
Thanks Guys! You're just biased because it is on a green machine. Thanks again.
Where did you get the holders for the shovel? I have been looking online and I cannot find anything close.
I actually got those at my local Ace hardware store. Spring loaded and everything.
I have now found magnetic ones....LOL... I will have to check it out at Ace, its the place...LOL...
Sorry Brian, I messed up, it was Tru-Value and not Ace. Got my hardware store mixed up. :slap-yourself-emoti
WOW, Super nice job Randy!
I have now found magnetic ones....LOL... I will have to check it out at Ace, its the place...LOL...
Brian, I did some more info search for you. Do a Google search for Stanley Tool Clips.
I like it!
Thanks Randy. Ace did not have any that were metal, just plastic. I will look for those!
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Well Gang, I have an update to my ballast box. I already had the dolly for it, but keeping it centered and on the dolly when hitting joints in my concrete floor concerned me when moving it about. I also thought there was an easier way to center it when loading the box to the dolly. Well, here is what I came up with. The guides are plastic and bolted directly to the sides of the dolly. Four of the guides are 8 inches long while the other two are 4 inches. This is to aid in the loading. Seems to work well.

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I like the plastic guides too. Tooled control joints in garages and shops are evil.
I like the plastic guides too. Tooled control joints in garages and shops are evil.
I feel the same (From an asthetic point of view) but in talking around, most people say I should definetly put some in when I do my 30x44 slab...
I feel the same (From an asthetic point of view) but in talking around, most people say I should definetly put some in when I do my 30x44 slab...
If they saw-cut them, they are not as bad as the "tooled" ones. Wheels roll over the saw-cut ones easily.
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Tooled control joints in garages and shops are evil.
Well, I would have perfered the sawed joints. What I have done though is to fill the joints with caulk, and it seems to help a lot. I have zipp strips as well, these tend to work out well also. You just end up with small hairline cracks running across the floof.
I feel the same (From an asthetic point of view) but in talking around, most people say I should definetly put some in when I do my 30x44 slab...
Definitely put in the control joints; just make sure they are saw-cut.
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