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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Howdy folks,

This is a video of my 3046r including many optional accessories and attachments. These models include the 3033r, 3039r, and 3046r. Many are also available for the previous 3x20 Series including the 3120, 3320, 3520, and 3720. Most were purchased with the tractor (new), but some added on after the fact as well. This should give you more of a real world look at some of these options instead of just seeing catalog photos. If you'd like to see any pictures/still shots, I'd be happy to take them. I'm probably out staring at the tractor anyways :) Thanks for watching!

Click here to watch on YouTube.

Otherwise, you can view below.


FYI, here is a list of John Deere part numbers for options and accessories shown in the video.

John Deere LED Worklights Part Number BLV10497
John Deere Brush Guard Kits Part Numbers BLV10620 & BLV10399
John Deere Large Seat Cover Part Number LP95233
John Deere Air Ride Suspension Kit Part Number LVB25688
John Deere EH 3rd SCV Part Number BLV10500
John Deere 4th & 5th SCV Kit Part Number BLV10839
John Deere Power Beyond Part Number BLV10962
John Deere Top and Tilt Kit Part Number BLV10650
John Deere Engine Coolant Heater Kit (Not shown) Part Number BLV10640
John Deere Transmission Oil Heater (Not shown) Part Number BLV10641
 

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Fantastic video GWT :good2:
 

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Nicely done sir. Great looking ride:bigthumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This is mine I made for my tractor plus the skid plate. View attachment 621818 View attachment 621826 I need to add the Hydraulic Goodies next for more things I want to add on later.
Your skid plate looks great. A skid plate is something I'd like to see offered as an option. I don't know how it would work on models with a mid PTO. However, for those without a mid PTO or when nothing is hooked to the mid PTO, this could be very useful. Take what happened to Big's 2032r recently for example. Fortunately he had insurance on it.

It would have to be quick attach for mid-PTO machines to increase the likelihood of utilization.

I don't know if a one size fits all per series of tractor would work or not? Maybe Kenny could come up with something. :unknown:
 

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I think if I was going to sell these and I don't want to I would go to thick Theromo-Plastic (3/8"-1/2")still very strong but easier on the head going under the tractor. Kidding it can be fabricated with heat and welded with the same materials and heat. That way you have a little flexibility customer can drill it easy if needed. Keep shipping cheap lowering the weight and install much safer to do under the tractor. Not hard to put the steel one on just have to know how to do it right and use a bottle jack to lift it in place. Don't drop the 80 pound plate on your hand always sit it on 2x4's for a spacer when lowering it. It hinges down so dropping is totally controlled. You can hole saw your drain holes as needed and a steel frame to bolt it to. Go for it test the market. I can post my bottom measurements later cause that took a while to get the nose to fit right and be square to the front tires when turned sharp.

Here are the measurements of my skid plate bottom; The basic flat plate steel is 56" long and 29" wide with a 16" Wide Nose and the angle goes back to 47" on both sides. My side plate is 7 1/2" bent on a 70 degree angle but my wheels are spaced out 2 1/2" wider. The sides can be 5 1/2" plus high but on a 90 degree angle to the bottom to keep a 2 1/2" plus gap from the rear tires. The frames two rear mounts to the extra 2-3/4" holes in the roll bar plates and line up just outside the diamond plate with the sub frame being 3 1/2" longer then the plate steel. The front uses the 4 extra holes in the lowest part of the mount. The center line for these bolt holes from the bottom plate need to be 5 3/4" min along with the rear plate to the roll bar plate to keep it square to the bottom of the tractor. This gives you a inch or better from hydraulic lines and 1/4" space from the rear drain plug for the hydraulic system. All filters/wiring ect will be inside this protected area. Just need 4 equal flat spots off these points to bolt the whole skid plate too. The 2 in the back work like a hinge when left loose then jack the plate up flat to the mounts.
 

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Another idea I am kicking around is a quick attach bolt on branch protector for me that connects to the roll bar. Having been smacked by braches several times working near trees it would be nice. I know in the winter plowing snow I keep ducking for the low branches but my winter Heavy PVC Wind Screen stops them from hitting me in the face. I just don't want to be closed in to much and not looking to stop trees falling just attached ones that whack you as you go by once in a while. Could even put a Lexan Windshield on it? Thinking out loud for a future project. I am re/doing the winter cover to work better for next winter. Doing it when it is warm easier then in the middle of winter like last time but it worked.
 

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Question: I'm thinking of installing the LED light kit (BLV10497) on my 3033R, The JD website says the BLV10400 ROPS Brush guard kit is required. I noticed on your list you have the BLV10620. What is the difference and which one do I really need? I guess the BLV10399 is a smaller guard that protects the work light?
 

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Question: I'm thinking of installing the LED light kit (BLV10497) on my 3033R, The JD website says the BLV10400 ROPS Brush guard kit is required. I noticed on your list you have the BLV10620. What is the difference and which one do I really need? I guess the BLV10399 is a smaller guard that protects the work light?
Depends on what you like to get yourself into but I put 4 led rectangular floods on my 3033r installed to the inside of the ROPS so they can be used with ROPS either up or folded down. I bent some u-bolts made from 1/4" thread rod covered in black rubber fuel line for a friction fit to the ROPS and to protect the paint. A cheap two wire trailer harness from TSC will plug into the factory wires (not perfectly but works) that are already there under your seat area at the rear. The wiring I used to splice the lights to the trailer connector was from an old electric pressure washer I had that no longer worked. All totalled about $45 in materials and absolutely no drilling required in the Deere. And they look nice too.

And of course this isn't worth a hoot if you have a cab:)

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 

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It possible that the 2 different part numbers reflect a change in the work light brackets. (Brush guards for tail lights)
2018 3R models have a rounded tail light and previous models had same tail lights as 3*20 series, retangular.
 

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After a bit more research it appears that the BLV10620 is the correct one. It's listed as a "premium warning-light brush-guard kit" at this link:

Rollover protection system (ROPS) warning light guards

Probably a good idea to add the BLV10399 kit as well to protect the added LED lights.
 
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This is mine I made for my tractor plus the skid plate. View attachment 621818 View attachment 621826 I need to add the Hydraulic Goodies next for more things I want to add on later.
Personally I'm not sold on the front brush guard, I don't think the factory setup without is all that bad.
But the skid pan is a great idea. :thumbup1gif:
I regularly have had to hop off to reconnect wires on the bottom that get disconnected by brush.
Never had an issue with the front.

Guess it all comes down to the one truth about these compact tractors, not all of them are used the same ways.
 
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