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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I saw a few topics posted where people installed nice backlit switches for their 3rd party LED lightbars/ and backup light installs.

I want to install a switch for an upper ROPS lightbar, and another switch for 2 smaller LED backup lights, which would be mounted to the light brushguard brackets I just bought.

PLEASE SEE ATTACHED PHOTOS.


I took both panels off my 1025R today hoping to have easy access to the 'dummy' switch for the optional mowing deck lift.... and discovered there is other heavy duty plastic subframe elements in the way, preventing easy access to wiring and additional switch installation.

I removed some other bolts around the dash/gauge surround, but then discovered that the steering wheel and parking brake levers, etc are in the way of removing the dash panel.

Seems like a HUGE job to try and add a switch.

I don't want to just 'cut in' an additional switch next to the 'dummy' mowing deck lift switch cover, because I can't be sure there is sufficient room behind the panel to accommodate another switch, either to the side or below the dummy switch.

Not sure what to do from here.

I tossed around the idea of putting the lightbar switch and the backup light switch on the plastic panel beside the right side of the seat.... but then, that would leave the switch fairly exposed to the elements and didn't know if that was advisable.

Any suggestions and/or instructions on how to access the panel where the 'dummy' mowing deck switch cover is located?

I want to make this look 'factory'.... don't want a nasty cobble-job install.

Thanks.
 

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I saw a few topics posted where people installed nice backlit switches for their 3rd party LED lightbars/ and backup light installs.

I want to install a switch for an upper ROPS lightbar, and another switch for 2 smaller LED backup lights, which would be mounted to the light brushguard brackets I just bought.

PLEASE SEE ATTACHED PHOTOS.


I took both panels off my 1025R today hoping to have easy access to the 'dummy' switch for the optional mowing deck lift.... and discovered there is other heavy duty plastic subframe elements in the way, preventing easy access to wiring and additional switch installation.

I removed some other bolts around the dash/gauge surround, but then discovered that the steering wheel and parking brake levers, etc are in the way of removing the dash panel.

Seems like a HUGE job to try and add a switch.

I don't want to just 'cut in' an additional switch next to the 'dummy' mowing deck lift switch cover, because I can't be sure there is sufficient room behind the panel to accommodate another switch, either to the side or below the dummy switch.

Not sure what to do from here.

I tossed around the idea of putting the lightbar switch and the backup light switch on the plastic panel beside the right side of the seat.... but then, that would leave the switch fairly exposed to the elements and didn't know if that was advisable.

Any suggestions and/or instructions on how to access the panel where the 'dummy' mowing deck switch cover is located?

I want to make this look 'factory'.... don't want a nasty cobble-job install.

Thanks.
I did the same thing as you to get an idea of what to do. Access that I required was not elegant and wasn't going to not last all day without some level of broken parts or maladjusted parking brakes so I opted not to.

I ended up putting my switch right on the knockout panel. My mounting for the switch required a 1/2" round hole so I just drilled out the center of the knockout and installed it there.

I don't think you will have any issues getting a couple side-by-side on either either side of the knockout. If you reach in with your fingers you can feel there is a substantial amount of room. While I prefer the rocker switches that mount in a rectangular hole, I have no complaints over the mounting option I chose (round hole). It is in a fairly innocuous position so the strength of the switch seems to be fine for this application.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did the same thing as you to get an idea of what to do. Access that I required was not elegant and wasn't going to not last all day without some level of broken parts or maladjusted parking brakes so I opted not to.

I ended up putting my switch right on the knockout panel. My mounting for the switch required a 1/2" round hole so I just drilled out the center of the knockout and installed it there.

I don't think you will have any issues getting a couple side-by-side on either either side of the knockout. If you reach in with your fingers you can feel there is a substantial amount of room. While I prefer the rocker switches that mount in a rectangular hole, I have no complaints over the mounting option I chose (round hole). It is in a fairly innocuous position so the strength of the switch seems to be fine for this application.
I popped out the 'dummy switch cover' for the mower deck button.... and could see inside a bit and stick my finger in the hole. In mine, their appears to be no space hardly for additional custom switches as there is plastic firewall parts everywhere except where the factory 'switch' location is.... there they have a nice hole access.

Looks like I may have to put the 12" LED lightbar switch for the top of the ROPS there.... and then do a wireless remote for the rear facing lights and hang the keyfob on my keychain.
 

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I popped out the 'dummy switch cover' for the mower deck button.... and could see inside a bit and stick my finger in the hole. In mine, their appears to be no space hardly for additional custom switches as there is plastic firewall parts everywhere except where the factory 'switch' location is.... there they have a nice hole access.

Looks like I may have to put the 12" LED lightbar switch for the top of the ROPS there.... and then do a wireless remote for the rear facing lights and hang the keyfob on my keychain.

Check out these switches as they have a very small footprint and are pretty beefy in terms of amps. You only need a 1/2" hole to mount them to. They have a bulkhead style fitting on the rear and the leads are all centrally located. The third lead is for a ground to power the light when switch is on. If you need extra room you can forgo the extra lead but honestly the one extra wire doesn't take up that much room.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-by-bwd-rocker-switch-urs534/20971930-P?searchTerm=rocker+switch#
 

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Can you explain the third lug. What is the ground to power mean
 

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Can you explain the third lug. What is the ground to power mean
It is actually "ground to power the light" that is on the switch. When the switch is placed in the ON position there is an LED on the switch that lights up to tell you it is on. If you eliminate this ground it will not light up on the switch but will still power the accessory you have connected via the switch. This would only be an option if you needed the space occupied by the ground wire for other switches or other wires.
 

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I was daunted by the amount of work to put my switch on the panel. So I mounted it to the black plastic cover under the right hand side of the seat. It's easy to find with gloved hands. I don't have a pic handy but I will try and get one.

IowaGuy
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I was daunted by the amount of work to put my switch on the panel. So I mounted it to the black plastic cover under the right hand side of the seat. It's easy to find with gloved hands. I don't have a pic handy but I will try and get one.

IowaGuy
IowaGuy - I would love to see a photo of your install.

I considered mounting mine to either of the 'side' plastic trim pieces to left or right of the seat where other levers, etc are too.... but it seemed like they were more 'exposed' to the elements so-to-speak.... and I wasn't sure if that was a good idea or not for the switch. Although, I even thought about mounting it directly 'under' the front of the seat on the plastic panel that conceals the 'seat safety switch'.... seems like if that switch is safe... then a few toggles should be too.... but I would rather have them where they are easily visible.

Let's see your solution! That may work for me. And thanks.
 

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I saw a few topics posted where people installed nice backlit switches for their 3rd party LED lightbars/ and backup light installs.

I want to install a switch for an upper ROPS lightbar, and another switch for 2 smaller LED backup lights, which would be mounted to the light brushguard brackets I just bought.

PLEASE SEE ATTACHED PHOTOS.


I took both panels off my 1025R today hoping to have easy access to the 'dummy' switch for the optional mowing deck lift.... and discovered there is other heavy duty plastic subframe elements in the way, preventing easy access to wiring and additional switch installation.

I removed some other bolts around the dash/gauge surround, but then discovered that the steering wheel and parking brake levers, etc are in the way of removing the dash panel.

Seems like a HUGE job to try and add a switch.

I don't want to just 'cut in' an additional switch next to the 'dummy' mowing deck lift switch cover, because I can't be sure there is sufficient room behind the panel to accommodate another switch, either to the side or below the dummy switch.

Not sure what to do from here.

I tossed around the idea of putting the lightbar switch and the backup light switch on the plastic panel beside the right side of the seat.... but then, that would leave the switch fairly exposed to the elements and didn't know if that was advisable.

Any suggestions and/or instructions on how to access the panel where the 'dummy' mowing deck s<script id="gpt-impl-0.97069042776989" src="https://securepubads.g.doubleclick.net/gpt/pubads_impl_107.js"></script>witch cover is located?

I want to make this look 'factory'.... don't want a nasty cobble-job install.

Thanks.
I'm guessing you passed on that switch location, because there is very little depth behind that area. I learned this when I was installing my Garage Door Opener switches. They were very shallow, requiring only 1/2" or so behind the plastic. Even with these shallow switches I had to do a little trimming behind the panel.



There is room just to the right of the original switch location that could accommodate another.
 

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I'm guessing you passed on that switch location, because there is very little depth behind that area. I learned this when I was installing my Garage Door Opener switches. They were very shallow, requiring only 1/2" or so behind the plastic. Even with these shallow switches I had to do a little trimming behind the panel.



There is room just to the right of the original switch location that could accommodate another.
Man I like the switches you installed for the garage door opener, that's slick and looks OEM
 

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I'm guessing you passed on that switch location, because there is very little depth behind that area. I learned this when I was installing my Garage Door Opener switches. They were very shallow, requiring only 1/2" or so behind the plastic. Even with these shallow switches I had to do a little trimming behind the panel.



There is room just to the right of the original switch location that could accommodate another.
Can you explain further on your garage door opener button install? I really like that idea and may be interested in installing it.
 

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Can you explain further on your garage door opener button install? I really like that idea and may be interested in installing it.
I have a three garage doors. I was going to just Velcro one of my extra door remotes (which has three buttons) to the tractor's ROPs. But then I got to thinking it would be much cooler, and much more weatherproof if I buried the door opener and relocated the switches to the dash panel using water proof buttons. That's exactly what you see there. Those buttons simply have wires running to my extra opener. I drilled a hole in the case, fed the wires in and soldered them to the back of the PC board at each button, then buried it (wire tied to the plastic) in the left side area behind the side cover. It's very safely protected from the elements.



I did not hook the power for the remote up to the tractor's battery. The remotes work on 3 volts (CR2032). I could have made a reducer, but I don't want anything that would draw current connected to that battery. So I left the CR2032 in there. That means I'll have to replace that battery from time to time. I'm guessing every 5 years or so.

Here's the switches I used. They are low current IP67. Dust tight, Waterproof: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/c-k/AP2E200TZBE/CKN9997-ND/2117620
 
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