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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone looked into modding the diff lock so that it could be electronically actuated? I was thinking an actuator similar to what is sometimes used on 4x4's. For example, the Gator RSX850i uses the attached actuator in it's front diff. AAM p/n 46003022

I find it very cumbersome to use the foot pedal linkage when I need it, but perhaps it was designed this way to prevent damage by people overusing the diff lock, or forgetting it is locked in on dry pavement.

What does the group think of this idea?
 

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2022 JD 1025R, 120R Loader, SB1154 snowblower, 54" mid-mower, HLA 900 lbs forks, RedRock quick hitch
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I find it very cumbersome to use the foot pedal linkage when I need it
I find it too, but I have the reflex now to reach for it with my heel, so it's become automatic. I plan to put a pedal on the stubby shaft though to make it easier to push. I'll try to fab something when the nice weather comes, I do my welding outside. I did get a car clutch pedal rubber cover online for cheap, I'll put that ontop of the pedal I'll make.

but perhaps it was designed this way to prevent damage by people overusing the diff lock, or forgetting it is locked in on dry pavement.
I think that's probably the reason. I don't know how much abuse the diff lock is designed to take.

Wish it was like the G80 rear end in my GMC, it locks automatically when it detects the other wheel spinning. I believe it's some sort of Eaton mechanical locker. It doesn't lock when making a sharp turn, that's not enough difference in wheel speed, but spinning makes it lock almost instantly, I feel it engaging.
 

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2020 1025R, 120R, 54D
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Keep in mind that using the brake pedal also engages the diff lock.

The reason it's manually activated is likely so that I doesn't stay engaged. Not sure an actuator would be wise.
 
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Bolt on Hooks has a diff lock pedal for the 1-series, you may look into that one to save you some time.

As just mentioned, pressing on the brake pedal on the 1-series engages the diff lock before the braking action. Whenever I need just an bit of diff lock, I just lightly press on the brake pedal. Keep in mind that if you tend to ride the brake pedal, you may have the diff lock engaged when you don't want it.

An electric actuator sounds like a good idea, but how often do you need to have it engaged for a long time? And if you do install it, will there be a manual override in case the actuator fails? Just thinking ahead.

Just my 2 cents.
 
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#1 look into BOH foot pedal add-on....well worth it!
#2 Yours' may be a good idea...the foot pedal ( is spring loaded up/unlocked) & I'd want the engagement force to either be minimal or adjustable....maybe a low/high kinda thing because I'd like not to crash the engaging gears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you all for your replies. I'm glad I asked; I now have a better understanding of how the system was designed to work. I had no idea the linkage also engaged while using the brake. This is helpful knowledge to have while operating.
 

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Just to clarify ......The tractor has only 1 Rear wheel brake.
Brake pedal engages diff lock so both rear tires are brakeing.

This also explains why there are no turning/independant rear brakes on that model.
1 brake and 2 wheels.with a normal open diff till you hit the brake.
 

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2022 JD 1025R, 120R Loader, SB1154 snowblower, 54" mid-mower, HLA 900 lbs forks, RedRock quick hitch
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Just to clarify ......The tractor has only 1 Rear wheel brake.
Brake pedal engages diff lock so both rear tires are brakeing.

This also explains why there are no turning/independant rear brakes on that model.
1 brake and 2 wheels.with a normal open diff till you hit the brake.
Also, when in 4WD that braking force is transmitted through the driveline to the front axle giving you essentially 3 wheel braking (due to the open diff in the front axle).
 

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This could easily be done with a servo motor or even a solenoid. The diff lock lever and brake pedal both simply actuate a common lever on the transmission.
 

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1025r with Mauser cab.
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I have to be totally honest, I have never used the Diff lock on my 1025r as I have never needed to. I plow probably 80% of the time in 2wd and only go into 4wd when the snow conditions become extreme. While I used the diff lock pedal on my 455 all of the time, that's a 2wd tractor and the diff lock pedal was left foot activated with your foot forward in a normal position. With the 1025r, I just haven't ever had the traction problems to require the diff lock pedal engagement,

Part of the reason I haven't needed the dif lock is due to the 600- 850 pounds of 3ph carry all rear ballast weight I carry on the machine at all times, plus the weight of the Mauser cab, which is another 400+ pounds. And then of course, the ballast I provide, which is also more than it should be, but that's life..............

Personally, I wouldn't bother with such a modificaiton. I would put Kenny's Dif lock pedal on the OEM "stub" which sticks out of the back of the operator platform. My machine came with a Mauser proivided dif lock pedal, which isn't as nice as Kenny's dif lock pedal sold............If traction is often a problem, I would consider ballast weight and machine balance, to make sure fundamentals are covered before such changes to the system as you are inquiring about.
 

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I dont know how it looks on a gator but ive thought of this for my X series. on my x495 i couldnt get the seat to go far enough forward and had to use my toes. now on my x595 i can go further forward and its not so bad. what i was going to do was use a solenoid that would push against the rod. you can still activate it manually with your foot and you would need to keep the button pressed when you wanted it engaged so there wouldnt be any issue of it staying on when not wanted.

keep on keepin on
 

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You could use a momentary switch so that you have to hold the switch to keep the diff lock engaged. That way you don't have to worry about forgetting to unlock it.
 
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