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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone,

I recently bought a new 1025r with a factory installed Mauser Cab.

I really wanted a backhoe and noticed that there really isn't much information online on how to make it work. The most information I was able to get was from a user named Scrub (see post: 1025r using backhoe with mauser cab) But what scrub did was to add the cab to a tractor that was already equipped with a backhoe.

I am doing the opposite; adding a backhoe to a cabbed tractor. I am creating this thread to share my experience and potentially help others that wants to do the same thing.

First step was to install the power beyond kit. (PN: BLV11216)
It's a really simple installation on an open station tractor but it becomes a little bit more challenging with the cab. But, I was able to install it without lifting the cab off the tractor.

Normal installation requires you to remove the right fender, but it is impossible without lifting the cab. What I did, was to remove the connecting hardware below the black fender, which let me lower the black fender and lift up the green fender.
Here's a picture showing the bracket that you need to remove (circled):
787299



Here's a picture showing how the fenders look when they are moved out of the way.
787146


Once that's done, there is enough space behind the mid SCV lever to insert a wrench to remove and install hydraulic lines.

Other than that, the most time consuming part of this install was to remove away all the cab floor insulation material.

Here's the installed power beyond kit:

787147


I should be receiving the backhoe itself soon from the dealer. I will update once it is installed.

[UPDATE May 14th]
Received the backhoe and went to work with my little helper.
787300


First step is to install the backhoe mounting hardware that mounts to the tractor frame.
Main struggle was that the installation manual calls for a 34mm deep socket that needs to be torqued at about 350 ft lbs for the draft pin nut.

I was joking with a friend that I could simply use a pipe wrench with a cheater bar and then, lo and behold, here's what I saw on the draft pin nut:
787302


Yep, those look exactly like pipe wrench marks from the factory. If it's good enough for Deere, it's good enough for me! Pipe wrench it is!
You also have to torque 4 cap screws with a 30mm socket at 350 ft lbs, but those don't require a deep socket.

It wasn't too long until the brackets were on and voila:
787303


Time to mount the backhoe.

First thing to come off was the seat, it touches the rear window even when it is fully forward. For now, it's coming off and it will be fixed once the back of the cab will be cut open.

Here it is, in all it's glory (sorry for the bad quality):
787308


Now onto the problems:
First problem: The rear window doesn't open or close because of the grab handle/safety bar:

787305


Currently debating between bending it forward or cutting it and removing a couple inches and rewelding it.
It seems like the control handles will also be in the way. But, for now, I think I will simply push them forward when opening the window.

Second problem:
I was concerned about the window clearance with the backhoe when fully retracted. If it is centered, it's fine but when you go fully left or right and start moving the dipstick, it will contact and potentially break the window.

Here's a picture showing the clearance when centered with the backhoe fully retracted:
787312


What we need is a way to open the window higher. I see two possible gameplan to resolve this, either remove the lower pin that holds the gas spring and weld it about 2 inches higher or get a longer gas spring/weld an extension on it.

Here's a picture showing the solution of moving the lower pin:
787314

I checked the available compression on the strut and it seems like we can easily compress it about 3 more inches. But, I am afraid that compressing it 2 more inches will increase the speed and force it will close shut and, since there are reports of the rear glass shattering when closing too fast, I am not a fan of that solution.

For now, the gameplan will be to weld an extension of an appropriate length at the end of the strut. I am slightly concerned to weld a rod connected to a high pressure gas cylinder, but I don't personally weld, so that will be answered by my welder.

As for the third and main problem; How to cut an access panel in the back of the cab and make it as factory looking as I can.

If anyone have some ideas on how to accomplish this, please let me know. My current plan is to weld some metal brackets and slip fit metal dowels to connect the pieces. An example of this can be seen in this following video:
 

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2020 1025R, 120R, 54D
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
[UPDATE May 14th added to main post]
 
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If you have any friends that do electrical work maybe talk to them about using two benders for conduit. Put one on each side of the grab handle and with two guys gently bend it toward the hoe. If you put some rags around the grab handle first you may not even mar up the paint. Just a thought. Another thing I considered, how far will the hoe swing before contacting the rear window? I have no expirence with these backhoes but if it contacts the glass near the end of the swing maybe you could just limit the swing with some fabricated stops at the bottom?? Maybe a bad idea?? Thought I would mention. Looks great so far!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you have any friends that do electrical work maybe talk to them about using two benders for conduit. Put one on each side of the grab handle and with two guys gently bend it toward the hoe. If you put some rags around the grab handle first you may not even mar up the paint. Just a thought. Another thing I considered, how far will the hoe swing before contacting the rear window? I have no expirence with these backhoes but if it contacts the glass near the end of the swing maybe you could just limit the swing with some fabricated stops at the bottom?? Maybe a bad idea?? Thought I would mention. Looks great so far!
Thanks for the ideas!

Might try to bend before heating up and destroying the paint.

As for limiting the travel to not hit the window, I would prefer keeping the full capabilities of the backhoe. Especially since having the window open more seems like a simple fix and, as an added bonus, it would give more headspace when walking behind the tractor with the window open or when climbing in the backhoe.

Great idea with the pipe benders though! I might look into that.
 

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I am thinking of a 2025R myself with Mauser cab and backhoe. Have not pulled trigger yet. Would it be possible to keep the glass closed and make a small seat that mounts to the rear cab mounts or maybe a bicycle seat on a post to original location? I know it won’t be much of a seat, but for limited short usage, maybe it would work?
 

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Hey everyone,

I recently bought a new 1025r with a factory installed Mauser Cab.

I really wanted a backhoe and noticed that there really isn't much information online on how to make it work. The most information I was able to get was from a user named Scrub (see post: 1025r using backhoe with mauser cab) But what scrub did was to add the cab to a tractor that was already equipped with a backhoe.

I am doing the opposite; adding a backhoe to a cabbed tractor. I am creating this thread to share my experience and potentially help others that wants to do the same thing.

First step was to install the power beyond kit. (PN: BLV11216)
It's a really simple installation on an open station tractor but it becomes a little bit more challenging with the cab. But, I was able to install it without lifting the cab off the tractor.

Normal installation requires you to remove the right fender, but it is impossible without lifting the cab. What I did, was to remove the connecting hardware below the black fender, which let me lower the black fender and lift up the green fender.
Here's a picture showing the bracket that you need to remove (circled):
View attachment 787299


Here's a picture showing how the fenders look when they are moved out of the way.
View attachment 787146

Once that's done, there is enough space behind the mid SCV lever to insert a wrench to remove and install hydraulic lines.

Other than that, the most time consuming part of this install was to remove away all the cab floor insulation material.

Here's the installed power beyond kit:

View attachment 787147

I should be receiving the backhoe itself soon from the dealer. I will update once it is installed.

[UPDATE May 14th]
Received the backhoe and went to work with my little helper.
View attachment 787300

First step is to install the backhoe mounting hardware that mounts to the tractor frame.
Main struggle was that the installation manual calls for a 34mm deep socket that needs to be torqued at about 350 ft lbs for the draft pin nut.

I was joking with a friend that I could simply use a pipe wrench with a cheater bar and then, lo and behold, here's what I saw on the draft pin nut:
View attachment 787302

Yep, those look exactly like pipe wrench marks from the factory. If it's good enough for Deere, it's good enough for me! Pipe wrench it is!
You also have to torque 4 cap screws with a 30mm socket at 350 ft lbs, but those don't require a deep socket.

It wasn't too long until the brackets were on and voila:
View attachment 787303

Time to mount the backhoe.

First thing to come off was the seat, it touches the rear window even when it is fully forward. For now, it's coming off and it will be fixed once the back of the cab will be cut open.

Here it is, in all it's glory (sorry for the bad quality):
View attachment 787308

Now onto the problems:
First problem: The rear window doesn't open or close because of the grab handle/safety bar:

View attachment 787305

Currently debating between bending it forward or cutting it and removing a couple inches and rewelding it.
It seems like the control handles will also be in the way. But, for now, I think I will simply push them forward when opening the window.

Second problem:
I was concerned about the window clearance with the backhoe when fully retracted. If it is centered, it's fine but when you go fully left or right and start moving the dipstick, it will contact and potentially break the window.

Here's a picture showing the clearance when centered with the backhoe fully retracted:
View attachment 787312

What we need is a way to open the window higher. I see two possible gameplan to resolve this, either remove the lower pin that holds the gas spring and weld it about 2 inches higher or get a longer gas spring/weld an extension on it.

Here's a picture showing the solution of moving the lower pin:
View attachment 787314
I checked the available compression on the strut and it seems like we can easily compress it about 3 more inches. But, I am afraid that compressing it 2 more inches will increase the speed and force it will close shut and, since there are reports of the rear glass shattering when closing too fast, I am not a fan of that solution.

For now, the gameplan will be to weld an extension of an appropriate length at the end of the strut. I am slightly concerned to weld a rod connected to a high pressure gas cylinder, but I don't personally weld, so that will be answered by my welder.

As for the third and main problem; How to cut an access panel in the back of the cab and make it as factory looking as I can.

If anyone have some ideas on how to accomplish this, please let me know. My current plan is to weld some metal brackets and slip fit metal dowels to connect the pieces. An example of this can be seen in this following video:
[/
Hey everyone,

I recently bought a new 1025r with a factory installed Mauser Cab.

I really wanted a backhoe and noticed that there really isn't much information online on how to make it work. The most information I was able to get was from a user named Scrub (see post: 1025r using backhoe with mauser cab) But what scrub did was to add the cab to a tractor that was already equipped with a backhoe.

I am doing the opposite; adding a backhoe to a cabbed tractor. I am creating this thread to share my experience and potentially help others that wants to do the same thing.

First step was to install the power beyond kit. (PN: BLV11216)
It's a really simple installation on an open station tractor but it becomes a little bit more challenging with the cab. But, I was able to install it without lifting the cab off the tractor.

Normal installation requires you to remove the right fender, but it is impossible without lifting the cab. What I did, was to remove the connecting hardware below the black fender, which let me lower the black fender and lift up the green fender.
Here's a picture showing the bracket that you need to remove (circled):
View attachment 787299


Here's a picture showing how the fenders look when they are moved out of the way.
View attachment 787146

Once that's done, there is enough space behind the mid SCV lever to insert a wrench to remove and install hydraulic lines.

Other than that, the most time consuming part of this install was to remove away all the cab floor insulation material.

Here's the installed power beyond kit:

View attachment 787147

I should be receiving the backhoe itself soon from the dealer. I will update once it is installed.

[UPDATE May 14th]
Received the backhoe and went to work with my little helper.
View attachment 787300

First step is to install the backhoe mounting hardware that mounts to the tractor frame.
Main struggle was that the installation manual calls for a 34mm deep socket that needs to be torqued at about 350 ft lbs for the draft pin nut.

I was joking with a friend that I could simply use a pipe wrench with a cheater bar and then, lo and behold, here's what I saw on the draft pin nut:
View attachment 787302

Yep, those look exactly like pipe wrench marks from the factory. If it's good enough for Deere, it's good enough for me! Pipe wrench it is!
You also have to torque 4 cap screws with a 30mm socket at 350 ft lbs, but those don't require a deep socket.

It wasn't too long until the brackets were on and voila:
View attachment 787303

Time to mount the backhoe.

First thing to come off was the seat, it touches the rear window even when it is fully forward. For now, it's coming off and it will be fixed once the back of the cab will be cut open.

Here it is, in all it's glory (sorry for the bad quality):
View attachment 787308

Now onto the problems:
First problem: The rear window doesn't open or close because of the grab handle/safety bar:

View attachment 787305

Currently debating between bending it forward or cutting it and removing a couple inches and rewelding it.
It seems like the control handles will also be in the way. But, for now, I think I will simply push them forward when opening the window.

Second problem:
I was concerned about the window clearance with the backhoe when fully retracted. If it is centered, it's fine but when you go fully left or right and start moving the dipstick, it will contact and potentially break the window.

Here's a picture showing the clearance when centered with the backhoe fully retracted:
View attachment 787312

What we need is a way to open the window higher. I see two possible gameplan to resolve this, either remove the lower pin that holds the gas spring and weld it about 2 inches higher or get a longer gas spring/weld an extension on it.

Here's a picture showing the solution of moving the lower pin:
View attachment 787314
I checked the available compression on the strut and it seems like we can easily compress it about 3 more inches. But, I am afraid that compressing it 2 more inches will increase the speed and force it will close shut and, since there are reports of the rear glass shattering when closing too fast, I am not a fan of that solution.

For now, the gameplan will be to weld an extension of an appropriate length at the end of the strut. I am slightly concerned to weld a rod connected to a high pressure gas cylinder, but I don't personally weld, so that will be answered by my welder.

As for the third and main problem; How to cut an access panel in the back of the cab and make it as factory looking as I can.

If anyone have some ideas on how to accomplish this, please let me know. My current plan is to weld some metal brackets and slip fit metal dowels to connect the pieces. An example of this can be seen in this following video:
Thanks for all the great information and pictures. I have a 1025r ordered that just can in and the dealer is installing the third function and I asked if they could install a power beyond at the same time since it can be done without a cab on. They claim it can't be done with a cab on. I see you installed one. Did you have to do any modifications to the cab or anything differently with the power beyond? Thanks
]
 
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