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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Question for all you folks. I have a 3-spool valve from a 140 H-3. Thinking about adding it to the existing hydraulics on my 316. My thought is to undo the return off the existing valve and run that to the 'in' port on the 3-spool. Then run that return back in place of the existing return. Would this work or would I be better off to put a tee into the existing lines. No way to just replace the single spool with this one as the steering is in the way for the handle linkage. More or less make an H-4 with it. Just thoughts at the moment.


Edit: title should read '86 316
 

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Thread title fixed. Sorry I can't help with you're question.
 
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If one tee's a control valve into an open center hyd system such as a JD316 it will not function as designed. I think you can add the 3 spool valve as you stated after the original valve & hyd's will function correctly
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If one tee's a control valve into an open center hyd system such as a JD316 it will not function as designed. I think you can add the 3 spool valve as you stated after the original valve & hyd's will function correctly
This valve should be open center also since it came from a 140.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Cool, Then I would have and H4. :lolol:

Now to figure out where to put it and make some handles since I don't have the 140 ones.
 

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Cool, Then I would have and H4. :lolol:

Now to figure out where to put it and make some handles since I don't have the 140 ones.
I added the single spool valve from a 316 to my 318 in the manner you mentioned (return from the H2 valve into the added H1, return from the H1 to the OE return line.)
I mounted the H1 at a 90 degree angle to the OE valve, and got the 3 handle set from a 420 ...turning one of the inside levers 90 degrees to operate the new valve.
(Interestingly... the short inside lever had a key slot to do this.)
It worked Awesome.

While I did not have any adverse affects, and am sure it was safe... Some concern doing this with "just any system on just any tractor" is to be sure the return side of the original valve can stand the pressure.
If the outlet port of the casting is designed for the lower pressure of a "'tank return" and not "power beyond" there could be trouble.
That said.. the 950 psi max pressure the 31X tractors should be set to is unlikely to be an issue in most valve castings.

I have no pics I can find.. and sold the tractor or I'd post up.. sorry.
 

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I don't know if these will help, but this is straight from the 316, 318, and 420 tech manual. The later 318's had a 3-spool option, same system the 420 has.
DSC01030.JPG DSC01029.JPG
 

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It will work just fine as long as it is open center and in series with the original open center valve. I did just about what you are considering by adding a 2 spool valve downstream from the 3 spool valve on my 400 to give an H5. Had to be creative about finding space to put it and ended up with it under the fender. I just happened on a 2 spool valve (with a handy handle configuration) from a Toro sand trap conditioner on Ebay. I separated the rockshaft (3PH) and the deck lift with the 2 spool and left the 3 spool available for a loader and other options.
 

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That is SWEET!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It will work just fine as long as it is open center and in series with the original open center valve. I did just about what you are considering by adding a 2 spool valve downstream from the 3 spool valve on my 400 to give an H5. Had to be creative about finding space to put it and ended up with it under the fender. I just happened on a 2 spool valve (with a handy handle configuration) from a Toro sand trap conditioner on Ebay. I separated the rockshaft (3PH) and the deck lift with the 2 spool and left the 3 spool available for a loader and other options.
Looks like you have foot pedal drive on that thing!
 

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Looks like you have foot pedal drive on that thing!
Foot control and joystick, too. But I don't want to derail your thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Foot control and joystick, too. But I don't want to derail your thread.
I'd be happy to see more on that foot control! Got a thread on it somewhere?
 

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BWV
IIRC power beyond hadn't been utilized on hyd valves way back when 140 & 316 were built.
No doubt you are correct :)

I'm betting it wouldn't have been a useful option anyway, with the 3 or so GPM those machines pumped either.
(probably why Deere put an independent pump on the 44 loader)

I don't remember seeing a separate tank return on the two 31X valves I had... so we are kinda stuck using the return port as PB for this kind of project.

The good news in this case is, they also weren't trying to conserve metal as much as they do today...so I would bet the old casting is up for the it ;) .. and it makes plumbing in these very tight spaces a lot simpler (just cut the return and put the new valve in the middle)

I'd not use one of the 140 or 31X valves on bigger or newer stuff (2000-3000 psi)... but the 750-950 psi from those (amazing) small tractors probably wont break any valve bodies.

Someone smarter than I mentioned in another thread I read about using a return port as PB making "regen" circuit in the upstream valve body under the right conditions.
Keep that in mind as you use it.
Using the tank return as a PB port could do this if a downstream valve puts the return from the upstream valve at full pressure.
Use caution if you have a loader on the upstream valve, especially with heavy loads.
To avoid it...just be sure to not use spools from both valve bodies at the same moment in time...use one or the other.
I never had any unexpected movements happen, but it's definitely "a thing" and possible.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
I found a diagram showing what I plan for later this Spring:
hydraulics-add.jpg
 

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I'm thinking this won't work KennyP. Your pump will be constantly fully loaded. This is why Deere uses open center valves.

In your diagram pump pressure goes through the FEL valve, then to the outlet valve, and then to the 3-pt cylinder, where it stops! Your pump will dump excess pressure back into transmission, but your oil will get HOT real quick. You'll also be working the engine pretty hard all of the time.

Now, if the oil is actually going to an open center valve for the 3-pt cylinder, that should work. Bob
 
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Discussion Starter #20
I looked under there the other day finally! If I do this, I am going to tee into the pressure and return where it hooks into the original valve. Seems to be the easiest and best way. I will not be using both valves at once anyway. Think it's the simplest solution.
 
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