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Discussion Starter #1
I am adding a light to the outside of my horse trailer to illuminate the area where the horses are tied. The tie rings are on one side of the trailer, and I'd like light there for times when I'm at shows after rides that run into the evening.

I have the light,already mounted, and have found an always live (whenever the trailer is plugged into the truck) wire that I've been able to splice into near the light. Now I want to add a switch. I want the switch inside the trailer in the front tack room, mounted on the wall, and rather than running wires to and from the switch to the light, I'd like it to be a wireless switch.

The 12V DC wireless switches I've found for use in cars and trailers all operate with key fobs, and that isn't what I really want. I want a fixed wall switch.

I have used a wireless switch for a 1120V barn light that I like, but the instructions say that it requires a neutral wire be present. I'm assuming this neutral wire requirement is only for a 110V system, and I plan to use the switch for a 12V system.

Since a 12V DC light only has a single power wire, plus a ground wire connected to the trailer metal, can I just treat the neutral wire in the switch relay as a second ground wire, and connect neutral and ground wires both to the trailer frame? Or just ignore the relay neutral wire?

switch.jpg
 

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The neutral should work as the DC ground; but I suspect all that electronic voodoo in the switch is designed for AC input, and won't work with low voltage DC.

How about just using Velcro to hold the fob to the tack room wall? That gives you the versatility of using the fob from the tack room or on your person.
 

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I suspect MJ is correct, that will not work. I would get on of the keyfob remotes and just velcro the remote where you want it as he suggested, there are plenty to choose from.
 

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Fibaro makes a RGBW controller that's designed specifically for controlling 12v lights, and can also be powered by a 12v source. That, in conjunction with other items that would tie everything together in a Z-Wave setup could potentially work.

But, it seems like it might be a lot of expense and work to accomplish this. What's the hesitation of running wires? It would seem that would really be the way to go.
 

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How high is the light? I've mounted lights like that on trailers and just put the switch right on the mount for the light.
 

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Looks like you may already know about SkyLinkHome wireless switches for AC circuits, based on your text and the picture you posted. Those would be just what you wanted if they can work with 12VDC. Call them up and ask them about it. http://www.skylinkhome.com/

I use these switches and remote receivers for the yard light on my shed that is 180' from the house. Works great!

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
To answer the questions.

I want a fixed wall switch and not a key fob velcroed to the wall because I'm a perfectionist.

I don't want to run the 2 wires a switch would require because the only way I can determine to do it leaves part of the wire run exposed within reach of a horse riding in the trailer. Plus, I don't want to drill any more holes in the trailer frame and skin than I have to.

The light is about 8 feet above ground level, so to get to it I'd need to climb up on the trailer fender to turn it off, and then jump back down in the dark.

I've ordered a wireless AC switch from Amazon and it arrives Wednesday. I'll post after that whether it works or not. I figure if it doesn't work, I'll be able to use it somewhere else.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Looks like you may already know about SkyLinkHome wireless switches for AC circuits, based on your text and the picture you posted. Those would be just what you wanted if they can work with 12VDC. Call them up and ask them about it. http://www.skylinkhome.com/

I use these switches and remote receivers for the yard light on my shed that is 180' from the house. Works great!

Rob
You're correct. I used one of these for an outdoor barn light I added last year. It works great. It is a bit expensive but saved me having to buy and snake about 70 feet of 12-2 Romex. I figure if I'd run wire I'd have spent about $50 for the wire, switch box, etc. plus all my time cutting and drilling and snaking and moving ladders and climbing up and down.

Made the wireless switch price seem like a really good deal.:thumbup1gif:
 

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I want a fixed wall switch and not a key fob velcroed to the wall because I'm a perfectionist.
OK, I can understand and appreciate that. How about making a trim plate for the fob so it looks more like an OEM type of switch? If I had my other computer running as I type this I'd post pictures of the doorbell trim plate I designed for the heavy duty button I used to replace the cheap crap one buys at Home Cheapot. If I have the PC on tomorrow night I can post pictures. I'm winding down my day, which is why I'm not posting pictures now.
 

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How about something like a light with a pull-chain for a switch? Mount one of those 3M adhesive hooks upside down below it and hook the chain to it so that it stays taught.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
How about something like a light with a pull-chain for a switch? Mount one of those 3M adhesive hooks upside down below it and hook the chain to it so that it stays taught.
They'd probably laugh me out of horse club:laugh:

Plus, one of my horses is smart enough so she'd figure out how to pull the chain to turn the light on and off herself.
 

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They'd probably laugh me out of horse club:laugh:

Plus, one of my horses is smart enough so she'd figure out how to pull the chain to turn the light on and off herself.
I dunno.. I don't necessarily see that as a bad thing. :)
 

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Here are pictures of the CAD model and finished 3D print of the doorbell trim plate I had Shapeways print out of nylon.
 

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To answer the questions.

I want a fixed wall switch and not a key fob velcroed to the wall because I'm a perfectionist.

I don't want to run the 2 wires a switch would require because the only way I can determine to do it leaves part of the wire run exposed within reach of a horse riding in the trailer. Plus, I don't want to drill any more holes in the trailer frame and skin than I have to.

The light is about 8 feet above ground level, so to get to it I'd need to climb up on the trailer fender to turn it off, and then jump back down in the dark.

I've ordered a wireless AC switch from Amazon and it arrives Wednesday. I'll post after that whether it works or not. I figure if it doesn't work, I'll be able to use it somewhere else.
If you can't get the wireless switch to work, I would run conduit and drill the required hole in the trailer skin. After 20+ years of not having any out side lights on my pole barn (I too did not want to put holes through the wall), I finally did and wished I HAD DONE SO SOONER.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The AC wireless switch did not work for my 12V trailer application. I then tried it on two other 12V DC circuits - one for my Fimco sprayer and one with fog lights in my car. It did not work for these either.:gaah:

On the chance that the wireless switch was defective, I tried it temporarily to control a lamp on an AC circuit in my shop. It worked as advertised on the AC circuit.
 

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The AC wireless switch did not work for my 12V trailer application. I then tried it on two other 12V DC circuits - one for my Fimco sprayer and one with fog lights in my car. It did not work for these either.
There was no way it was going to work for two reasons.

1. The switching device is usually a TRIAC. It only works on AC. Once it triggers, the only way it shuts off is to remove the trigger signal from the gate and wait for the current to reverse direction.
2. The receiver gets its power from a supply that's designed to work on 120VAC and it's probably a switching supply. Applying 12VDC won't even make the power supply work. Even if the supply was a simple voltage divider and rectifier, the most it would output is 1/10th of the voltage needed for the receiver to receive..

Al
 

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If your main objection to existing 12V DC wireless switch systems is the design/look of the remote then how about using a simple 12V standard switch (rocker or whatever suits you) and front the 'keyfob' style switch with it? Should be as simple as opening the keyfob, wire the other switch to the keyfob's button contact, then hide the keyfob somewhere out of sight. That way you don't have to re-invent the wheel in terms of the wireless and 12V control part. A little wiring, soldering and you're done.

Rob
 

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Here's a simple 12V wall switch that might work...

Multi Purpose Switch 12 Volt for RV

I think you'll find a lot of options related to RVs.

ETA: In fact, the 12V part isn't really important. Any switch should work because the keyfob remote itself isn't even 12V. Switch is a switch here. On or off.

Rob
 
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