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Adding additional SCV's to JD 4720

16282 Views 27 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Furu
I have searched the archives and find nothing that quite addresses my issue described below. Something similar on a JD 3720 mod but from the discussion it is plumbed much differently from the 4720.

I have a 2007 JD 4720 with power beyond and the standard dual SCV.
I want to add some additional SCV's. I know that I can put on the 3rd SCV kit (LVB25513) and the 4th and 5th SCV electric diverter kit (LVB26077) and get three rear SCV's out of the mod.

My question is with the power beyond has anyone put on a spooler valve on the power beyond hydraulics to get the extra control valves that way. They would have to be open valves similar to what is on the backhoe. If a bank of open hydraulic valves were plumbed into the output of the power beyond and returned the same way it seems that could be a viable method of gaining what I am looking for. It may not be viable economically or technically versus the JD kits but if doable would leave the front end SCV usable at the same time.

Any ideas or experience in this area.
Thanks
Steve
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Welcome to GTT Matt!

What are you referring to when you say not to plumb to the return port the backhoe uses? Is this the one just below the drivers right, rockshaft arm and part of the PB kit? I don't have a backhoe to reference and the above comment on the backhoe return makes me go hmmmmm...:unknown: These things are too expensive to risk screwing up when knowledgeable help is a question away!

If I'm OK using the transmission return port that's available after the PB installation, does anyone know what the standard is for the 3/8" QD? It doesn't mate to a spare 3/8" ag interchange QD I have and I'll need to know when I get hoses around. The QD is on the tractor miles from my house, so measuring with the calipers is a stretch.

Thanks for all the help!
Matt
If I remember correctly without reading everything again, the OP wanted a "plug-in" solution when the backhoe was removed. So we discussed plumbing the new valve stack in just like the backhoe does but NOT using the return that bypasses the 3PH like the backhoe does.

If you don't have the backhoe, and you are basically permantly mounting your valve then you certainly can plumb the new valve in with the IN, OUT, and PB ports in the "normal" fashion.

The QD's are ISO-A IIRC like these: http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/ISO_7241_1_Series_A_Hydraulic_s/280.htm and the "AG Style". I thought the larger tractors used 1/2" however and not 3/8".
Thanks for clarifying!

KennyD,
Thanks for the clarification on the return - I was worried I had missed something big. My PB kit was shorted 2 fitings so I'm waiting for those and my bracket to mount the valve. A week or so and I'll have it buttoned up.

I'll post a pic or two when its "finished"... version 1.0 will have hoses. After I catch up on my stump grinding before the grass grows, I'd like to convert to hard lines. In the mean time, I have a great deal of work to do (mostly in the seat after the hydraulics are ready).

Thank you for the lead on the ISO designation for the return male QD. The QD's for the SCV's and PB are all 1/2", but the PB return is a 3/8" on the 4720.

I'll post more when I get things ready and a can provide a pic of the tractor hydraulics and a "before" pic of my once beautiful ash forest, now reduced to acres of ash stumps and firewood (the emerald ash borer is coming if it hasn't already gotten to you).

Thanks again! :thumbup1gif:
Matt
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Your welcome Matt, start a new thread for you project when you get some pics:bye:
As I am finally ready to finalize the fabrication of my unit (it has taken a lot of time as I have not had much of it and not the right tools to do some of the fab work) I thought of a couple of questions.

As a refresher I am adding 4 extra SV's to my 4720 and using the PB as a supply system.

The first is since I have fabricated a mount that is probably way over-engineered I have lots of real estate to work with. How much separation do you recommend between the female QD's on the tractor side (They are satellited from the valve) and will be on a plate that extends the width between the ROPS. I have seen references to complaining about how close JD puts them but I don't want to spread them too much. Current design is 2.5 inches horizontal separation between each bank and 4.75 inches vertical between the A and B QD's. Dimensions are center to center. I am ready to cut the holes but am now second guessing my QD separation placement. Any recommendations?

Second question. My original design did not have a PB sleeve in the Wolverine SV and went from the output of the SV back to the return of the PB. Reading MattF's posts on his installation on a 4720 he hooked up to his PB and plumbed the SV to both the JD PB return via the added Wolverine PB sleeve and then to the sump via the output of the SV. Did not understand why he did that and there were several posts that said you MUST plumb it that way. In addition as Kenny knows there is an individual on another site that is very vocal but often confuses the matter more than helps, that is adamant that you must always put a PB sleeve in a remote SV to return to both the PB return and to the sump separately. Which is correct or which is better?

I have been taking pictures as I go and will document this when finally finished. I may be slow but I am methodical.
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The first is since I have fabricated a mount that is probably way over-engineered I have lots of real estate to work with. How much separation do you recommend between the female QD's on the tractor side (They are satellited from the valve) and will be on a plate that extends the width between the ROPS. I have seen references to complaining about how close JD puts them but I don't want to spread them too much. Current design is 2.5 inches horizontal separation between each bank and 4.75 inches vertical between the A and B QD's. Dimensions are center to center. I am ready to cut the holes but am now second guessing my QD separation placement. Any recommendations?
Your spacing sounds good to me. Mine are very close together because they are mounted directly to the valve but they are still workable. I can only suggest you make a test peice from cardboard or thin plywood and see it it feels to you.

Second question. My original design did not have a PB sleeve in the Wolverine SV and went from the output of the SV back to the return of the PB. Reading MattF's posts on his installation on a 4720 he hooked up to his PB and plumbed the SV to both the JD PB return via the added Wolverine PB sleeve and then to the sump via the output of the SV. Did not understand why he did that and there were several posts that said you MUST plumb it that way. In addition as Kenny knows there is an individual on another site that is very vocal but often confuses the matter more than helps, that is adamant that you must always put a PB sleeve in a remote SV to return to both the PB return and to the sump separately. Which is correct or which is better?
Ah, my buddy JJ...the main reason I stopped posting in the hydraulics forum at TBN.:thumbsdown:

Anyway, here is my story: It is always better to use a PB sleeve and plumb a separate tank return IF possible, and on your machine it is indeed easy and possible. On the small tractors like mine, there just is not a place to return the fluid to so we plumb the new valve's in without it. That is where we argue over there-he always talks about valves blowing up but...:boredom:
Anyway, here is my story: It is always better to use a PB sleeve and plumb a separate tank return IF possible, and on your machine it is indeed easy and possible. On the small tractors like mine, there just is not a place to return the fluid to so we plumb the new valve's in without it. That is where we argue over there-he always talks about valves blowing up but...:boredom:
OK so then I should go ahead and plumb it w/ PB sleeve and return to sump. It is not a big deal just another hose and a sleeve.
Thanks
Very interested...

Furu,
When you get a chance/further into your project - Post a pic or two of your mounting/bracket solution. The plumbing is technical/academic, the creative aspect is in packaging and making the valves ergonomically functional. Since we have the same tractor, I'd love to see how you approach this.

Anyway, I followed this thread before I started my PB/SCV add-on so I'm very curious to see how you work out the details. Four valves poses some challenges to mount, even with the space available on the 4720 (lots of hoses/fittings and QD's!). It should be an awesome setup! :thumbup1gif:

Matt
I have delayed posting any pictures until it is finalized as it is a work in progress. I have had to make tweaks to my design as I go. At this point I am bending tube lines to fit the space that is available in my design. (10 separate tubes still better than hoses) The 5/8" (-10) tubes are still a sore point in bending properly. (5/8" tube bender is over $400.) Actually thinking about using heat but concerned about deformation. The -8 tubes just require attention and time to get right. I hope that I succeed shortly, as it has been a long term project that has been interrupted by life in more ways than I ever want to experience again but I need to have them available for use VERY soon. I envy the individual that did his project in what looked like less than 2 weeks by reading his posts.

I did get Prince Hydraulics to send me additional data (2 pages) on the WVS spool valves that I was missing (Not included in the Prince catalog). The selling company (Surplus hydraulics) did not have the additional data that I was looking for and could not seem to find answers to my questions. Apparently the OEM companies that normally buy the WVS valves already have the info and thus no documentation comes with the valve/sleeve, etc. If anyone wants/needs more data on the Wolverine WVS valve I can forwarded it, or GTT can post it for general use.

Any suggestions as to where to find 1/2" female QD dust plugs that come in different colors (4 different)? JD's idea of pricing on them is not friendly and I can only find black and blue at reasonable prices anywhere else. I may just give up and go single color and not try to make it color coded to prevent errors as I get older. I also have not figured out how to cure the powder coat on the longer pieces, may have to give up and just paint.
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