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I want to add more ballast to the rear of my 2038r, sometimes the box scraper just doesn't seem to be enough. Asking the group; ballast box or Heavy Hitch with suitcase weights? The Heavy Hitch is cleaner but the suitcase weights are awful expensive (more than cement!) What do you think 500+ pounds enough? I have the standard 220 loader.
 

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A ballast box full of cement is, by far, your cheapest option. Easier to take off also. Just drop and go. No weights to load and unload. Now, if you ever think you will need front ballast, the weights might be your answer. I have a ballast box full of Portland cement. No idea what it weighs. But, if you add the weight of the box, the IMatch, and the cement, it should be plenty. I also have the extension, but my cement just comes up to the top of the box. I use the extension for a tool box. Are your tires loaded?
 

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I put 500lbs of cement in my ballast box and have never had a problem. I installed 3 PVC tubes for chain, rake, broom. it works great.
 

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A ballast box or the HH weight bracket that holds 16 suitcase weights is the best option. Surprises me the number of people that use a box blade for rear ballast, a 6' Fronrier box blade is only a little over 400#, not near enough to make me feel warm and fuzzy.
 

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A ballast box full of cement is, by far, your cheapest option. Easier to take off also. Just drop and go. No weights to load and unload. Now, if you ever think you will need front ballast, the weights might be your answer. I have a ballast box full of Portland cement. No idea what it weighs. But, if you add the weight of the box, the IMatch, and the cement, it should be plenty. I also have the extension, but my cement just comes up to the top of the box. I use the extension for a tool box. Are your tires loaded?

Your ballast box with cement weighs around 692#.

Facts and charts like this are included in the link I posted above.

6DF886B1-081F-40D2-BDF1-3C7C02292B80.png
 

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Let me tell you about my ballast experience. Tractor is a 2014 3032E with 305 loader and 60" frontier box blade. I read the manual and knew the 400lb. box blade wasn't enough.

We use the tractor for shuttling stone for septic systems, sand for sewer pipe, and finish work around new house pads. It gets worked but we respect it and take good care of it.

Just got it out of the shop for a left front leaky "kingpin" steering seal. $404 at the dealer and I was good to go. I did hit a hole at 3 mph on a jobsite, with a bucket full of sand, and I did lift the tongue of a trailer to move it a short distance. Was in a hurry and trying to avoid fire danger(dead grass).

And I did all of this without proper ballast. The cost of the repairs would have easily paid for a new deere ballast box. The day I got the tractor out of the shop, I had a 360 foot septic system to complete. I went by a buddy's house, and borrowed (4) 100lb. suitcase weights off of a case 2390 that I bought from him. Hung the weights on my box blade while shuttling stone to the lateral lines. Worked great, tractor felt balanced and didn't buck or exhibit any negative actions. The front tires didn't bag or cut ruts while under a load. My homemade setup added up to approx. 850 lbs. with my imatch included.

I ordered a ballast box from my deere dealer that day. Bottom line is get your tractor speced out correctly for your particular activity. If your activity changes, recalculate your setup. I feel foolish for letting this happen to my tractor. I own over 7 other larger machines, and I knew better. Bottom line is buy or make a ballast box for your tractor. Not only does it remove stress off of the front axle assembly, but it balances your tractor out for safety reasons. Try going downhill without a ballast box and a loaded bucket........

Loaded rear tires and rear wheel weights will make a tractor more stable, and aid in traction, but these 2 items will not take stress off of the front axle. Only a weight placed behind the rear axle(ballast box) will remove stress from the front axle. The further you can get the weight past the center of the rear axle, the better the ballast will work.
 

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^^^ What he said.
 

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Just got it out of the shop for a left front leaky "kingpin" steering seal. $404 at the dealer and I was good to go. I did hit a hole at 3 mph on a jobsite, with a bucket full of sand, and I did lift the tongue of a trailer to move it a short distance. Was in a hurry and trying to avoid fire danger(dead grass).

And I did all of this without proper ballast. The cost of the repairs would have easily paid for a new deere ballast box.
My brother did the exact same thing with his little Ford SCUT. It is 2WD and he has a habit of not using his ballast box (yes, he has one). He had a load of dirt in the bucket and was going across the yard very slowly and his front tire dipped onto a small indentation in the yard and bent the front spindle.

$300 in parts later he is back in business. He pretty much uses the ballast box all the time now. :)
 

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I went through this a couple of months ago. I decided on the heavy hitch and 40 lb suitcase because of the flexibility. I can add the ballast to the front or rear as needed. When using the box blade I put 4 weights on it and a couple weights on the front for balance. When cutting grass (mostly weeds :laugh:) I like to remove the loader for visibility and consequently need to add ballast to the front of the tractor.
 

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