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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Guys,

I recently added a double-acting hydraulic cylinder (6" stroke) to my RB2060L rear blade so that I can angle it in either direction using my 3rd SCV. Works like a charm and actually angles a little more than the pin holes would have allowed. My favorite machine shop did the welding for me ($150).

I use the rear blade, in combination with the loader, for plowing snow (pulling forward) and the hydro-turn should make that job a little quicker.

The bad news is - I first bought a 10" stroke cylinder thinking "the longer the better" but that longer cylinder didn't fit into the rear blade's frame geometry so I then bought the 6" stroke cylinder. Now I have a brand new 10" cylinder that's crying for a purpose in life. So now I'm thinking "Hmmm ... maybe I need to modify the cart so it can hydraulically dump."


​My wife is wondering when it will all end.
 

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Larry,that looks awesome!:good2:
Yeah,I'm thinking your cart needs something to make it easier on you too!:)
 

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Hydraulics are nice aren't they? :good2:



Are those Chinese galvanized black iron elbows? You'll want to use fittings rated for the pressure in your hydraulic system, not off the shelf stuff from a home hardware store. Using them is potentially very dangerous. They aren't rated for the pressure and can fail.
 

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Diesel beat me to it concerning those Home Depot plumbing fittings being used on a hydraulic system being Bad Juju.

Otherwise I like the modification.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Guys,

Thanks for the comments about the fittings. I didn't like using the plumbing street ells and elbows but I'm having a hard time finding hydraulic elbows and I wanted to get it working so I could test it. Any ideas on where to look for real elbows? I already tried TSC and Farm & Home.
 

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Guys,

Thanks for the comments about the fittings. I didn't like using the plumbing street ells and elbows but I'm having a hard time finding hydraulic elbows and I wanted to get it working so I could test it. Any ideas on where to look for real elbows? I already tried TSC and Farm & Home.
Do you have a local hydraulic hose shop? If not, you could order them from Hydraulics Direct or Discount Hydraulic Hose.:thumbup1gif:
 

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Great job Larry!

I have used DHH several times, and also the Surplus Center and Hydraulic Store.

Please let us know if you need help with the proper parts. Those cast fittings are rated for about 300psi, whereas your system operates at almost 2000psi, and shock loads-especially from that blade well exceed that.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Jason & Kenny,

Thanks for your input. I think you're correct about steel plumbing fittings being rated around 300 PSI. City water systems seldom exceed about 70 PSI operating pressure.

I do have a local hydraulic hose shop that have made up hoses for me in the past. I'm sure I can purchase my hydraulic fittings there.

I routed the QDs to point toward the center rear of the tractor to keep the rear hoses away from the moving 3PH draw arm parts.
 

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Nice looking Adamski. Seems to me the piston may bind later on down the road when things wear in a little, could be the way the picture was taken.
 

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Long time lurker and a rookie poster. My I pose what may be a noob question to hydraulics on these machines? I recently picked up a 1025r outfitted with a FEL and a 260 backhoe. Is the 3rd SCV mentioned in this thread the same SCV used to power/supply the 260? If so, what is he OP using to manipulate the hydraulic ram ? I'm really considering this addition and I'm tying to understand the supply and control circuit on this mod.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Long time lurker and a rookie poster. My I pose what may be a noob question to hydraulics on these machines? I recently picked up a 1025r outfitted with a FEL and a 260 backhoe. Is the 3rd SCV mentioned in this thread the same SCV used to power/supply the 260? If so, what is he OP using to manipulate the hydraulic ram ? I'm really considering this addition and I'm tying to understand the supply and control circuit on this mod.

Thanks in advance.
:wgtt:

There are two different kits available for the 1026r from JD, hopefully I can explain it well for you:

1) Power Beyond kit: It supplies a constant flow of hydraulic oil to implements like backhoes and logsplitters that have their own control valve. There is no valve, so you can use this to control a cylinder directly.
2) 3rd SCV kit: This adds a valve, and can be used to operate any cylinder like on a blade, plow, top link, ect.

Unfortunately, on the 1026r you cannot have both of these kits installed at the same time, but there are custom solutions available to add more valves and such, there are a few threads in the Hydraulic forum detailing this.

Clear as mud now?:laugh:

If you still need more help understanding, you might want to start a new thread so we don't derail Larry's to much.
 
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No need for a thread, I began looking shortly after posting. What the hydraulics section didn't provide, you just did. Thanks sir!!!!

Larry, thanks for the space!!! Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update

Guys,

I picked up 4 hydraulic street ells and installed them on my cylinder and Quick Connects. Upon further testing, I found that dropping the Imatch all the way down (with no implement attached) causes the rock shaft arm to hit (and turn) my QCs. So I'm going to replumb the QCs again to get them away from both the right rock shaft arm and the right draw bar movement. On a subcompact tractor, I'm finding that obtaining clearance from these moving parts is quite a challenge.
 
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