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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking to possibly adjust my 3 point hitch to go a few inches lower and not raise the same amount. This tractor raises the three point so high that its not needed and I feel that getting it down a few inches lower would help while using some implements. Is it possible without moving the arms a tooth?
 

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Yep...First you have to make sure you got full range of motion in the quadrant for the lever (under the cab, behind the RR tire on a 3x)....then you can adjust the feedback rod.
Mine drops down to 9"ish and goes to 29 I want to say....
 

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I couldnt tell you what to do with your feedback rod...even the tech at the dealer told me there was no easy answer.... Key is to adjust the control cable first to make sure you have complete range of motion, the lever should not hit either end of the quadrant....once you got that done, you can then start tinkering with the feedback lever.

To be honest with you, when I followed those directions, I ended up muttering words I cant type here :banghead: I ended up adjusting the cable, then played with the feedback rod, then I re-adjusted the cable...now its perfect.
 

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On my 4520, when the 3 point is all the way down it's 7 3/4" from the center of the draft link hole to the ground. When it is all the way up, it is 32" off the ground.

The iMatch "bottom of the hook" is about 3/4" lower than than, which makes sense when you look at the pin.

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks Pete! That reaffirms that mine is significantly off. 7 inches seems like a lot to adjust. Might there be something else other than an adjustment? People keep telling me that i should be hitting the point where the three point topped out, but I am not. Seems like something is off a spline, or more?
 

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I find no spec for the height of the end of the draft arms in either the owners manual or the tech manual. The only spec in the tech manual is that the travel of the lift arms should be about "12.6 inces as measured at the center of the lift arm pins." The lift arms connect to the draft links about in the center (off by around an inch). So my 24.24 inches of travel means at the ends means close to that 12.6 inches of life arm travel as specified in the tech manual.

Seems like a good next step is to measure the travel you have either at the ends (around 24-25 inches) or at the place where the lift arms come into the draft arms (around 12.6"). That should be enough to work with your dealer, it sure seems that this was delivered with something wrong from the factory.

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, Not as easy... Well, Not as clear as I would have thought.

So I started to adjust the feedback arm. I went from one extreme to the other and all I could adjust was the lift height. The arms always went back to the same place on the bottom. 15" to the center of the cat 1 arm hole.

So after a little discussion with the dealer and more frustration with adjustments. I feel that my lift arms are bottoming out. So I adjusted the arms that fo to the bottom hitch arms.

I let them down 2"s each. I now have 8" at the bottom and 35" on top. I adjusted the hitch to raise a bit more than it did before. This solved a lot of my toplink issues of hitting the imatch.

epete, I have to assume yours are adjusted similar to this. If you look in my pics above, they were screwed all the way up.
 

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I found one picture (2nd picture) I took when the TnT was new, pre-iMatch install, when the land plane was on the hitch. If you look at the adjustable link, the threads are out about .8 inches (on each end, you can only see the top end in the pix). You can see the threads in your picture, they are out by about the same amount.

As part of coming up with the length of the side cylinder on the TnT, I first adjusted both lift arms to their midpoint. This then gave me the middle-of-the-whole to middle-of-the-hole length for the hydraulic side cylinder. If you look at the hydraulic side cylinder in my 2nd pix, you see that the hole in it is very near the bottom- in fact, there is only about 3/8" of metal there. I didn't know when I gave the spec to CCM to make the cylinder that it would be that tight, and in retrospect would have shot for .5 to .625 inches up from the bottom, which would probably have given me 9" up from the ground at the end of the lift arms.

So, I think the side links on both of our tractors are adjusted to about the same lenght. I didn't really think through the adjustments other than having things at the mid point, and by the time I ordered my side link I had used the MX6 and boxblade and the heights were fine. All the way up keeps all implements from hitting the ground all the places I go with them.

The tech manual refers to the adjustment for the lift arms feedback, and says that the primary goal is to be sure the hydraulic system does not go into relief when the hitch is raised all the way to the top. Sound like you can play with this to get 2-3 more inches, but you might want to check and be sure you aren't too far out.

Note also that I flopped the valves on the top link cylinder so they are away from the tractor. This kept them from hitting the toplink holder. Looks like on yours you've precisions adjusted that way out of the picture. You can see that clearer in the 1st picture. (subsequent uploads have pictures in reverse order?)

Next fun topic: I can't find a symmetric set of holes in the sway bars that works with my iMatch. I can see on your photo that you're in the long slot hole (4th back) on the left, where are you on the right?

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks Pete,

In messing with that arm, I did make mine go to high and hit the relief valve. You defiantly know it when you get there. I worked on it for a while last night and you could hear the upper arms hit some sort of "stop" and it was internal. So, no matter what adjustments I made, it was only adjusting the hieght i could lift to. Its good to know that mine is not FUBAR.

I massaged the factory top link holder out of the way.

Thanks for the pics and the info!
 

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Brian,
Looking at the third picture you had posted on page 1, the arms are in the down position but the adjustable rods are fully retracted to their shortest position. You need to unwind them to the middle, I have read on the Deere site somwhere that the lower link holes should be about 7 1/2" to 8" above the ground. That appears to be the only issue you had when you started adjusting the 3pt. You might need to adjust it back to where you started out now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Brian,
Looking at the third picture you had posted on page 1, the arms are in the down position but the adjustable rods are fully retracted to their shortest position. You need to unwind them to the middle, I have read on the Deere site somwhere that the lower link holes should be about 7 1/2" to 8" above the ground. That appears to be the only issue you had when you started adjusting the 3pt. You might need to adjust it back to where you started out now.

The reason I had this issue/self created problem was because my 3720 would go down to 7 inches and the adjustable rods on that machine were fully retracted. That made me think that this one should be the same. I see now I was wrong, but I did learn about how to adjust for additional lift height, and that will help greatly in the future!

Its one of those things that is odd when going from a 3x20 to a 4x20.
 

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Brian,
I suspect the oddity is caused by taller tires and wheels on the 4520, more ground clearance. Hope you are enjoying the new tractor.
 

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I was gonna suggest the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The rear end on a 4x20 is totaly different than a 3x20. I would have expected them to design it in the same fasshion. But at this point I understand that they wanted to allow for a max lift height and let you adjust down to your needs. Makes sense, but not when you come from a 3x20 that was perfect from the start.
 

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Every large tractor gets adjusted for down height by unscrewing those draft links and making them longer. Been that way since the invention of the 3 point hitch.
 
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