Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,788 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So in anticipation of getting my new tractor I've been watching videos of how to use some of the implements. Specifically the box-blade.

It seems like an adjustable top-link is required so that you can adjust the angle of the box to the ground when in the down position. Has anyone installed a hydraulically actuated top-link on a 1025R? I believe there are additional valves, etc. available, but what specifically would be required for this install? Might even be nice to have adustable lower links as well to pitch the box for ditch maintenance.

How do you guys do this? I assume the stock 3-point links are adjustable with tools. (Didn't really look closely at them to tell the truth.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
446 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,788 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Excellent - thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,339 Posts
The stock top link requires a wrench to lock in place. When I put on my iMatch I found that the stock top link was too long so I bought a replacement that is about an inch shorter. The replacement, instead of having a hex shaped locknut has a locknut that is elongated so that you can lock in place without the use of a wrench. Not as nice as a hydraulic top link for sure but a heck of a lot cheaper and simpler.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
373 Posts
Boxing the blade.

There's a hill that I'd like to take some of the slope out of using my box blade. I want to cut into the top of the hill and drag the dirt to the bottom of it, making it a bit of a more gentle slope. To do this, I would want the box blade set to cut in aggressively at the top of the hill, move the angle to more of a dragging position as I move down the hill, and then as I reach the bottom, where I want the dirt to end up, I'd want the angle of the box blade to be less, so as to dump and level. Since I don't use the 3ph all that much and I don't want valve handles and an octopus of hoses permanently invading my "cockpit", I think I'd like a top link with a valve and handle right on the link itself. All one would have to do is slap the link on and plug it into the PB. Or, if I wanted to get really creative, I could employ some electrically controlled hydro valves mounted on the link and just run them via a switch on the dash. I think a permanently mounted switch and a wiring harness with a couple of connectors would be much less intrusive. The hardest part would be figuring out what size orifice to use in order to keep the hydraulic movement "tame".
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,656 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,339 Posts
There's a hill that I'd like to take some of the slope out of using my box blade. I want to cut into the top of the hill and drag the dirt to the bottom of it, making it a bit of a more gentle slope.
You should be able to accomplish this without having to change the angle (once you get it set). The angle which it bites into the earth will change as you go down the hill - at the top it will bite into the ground aggressively then at the bottom when you round out, it won't. It is like going over a mound on flat ground (the crest of the hill) then over a trough (the bottom of the hill). I think the geometry will work in your favor here, no need for anything fancy.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Myasis Dragon

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,670 Posts
You could also do some removal at the top (scarifiers down) and move the dirt to the edge. Then re-adjust the top link, retract the scarifiers, and do the drag and level in the next step.

I think the non wrench style top link kabic suggested would make this easier.

Top link mounted controls.....well it is easy to reach on those tractors......
 
  • Like
Reactions: Myasis Dragon
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top