Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
723 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm going to look at a 1026R this evening that I'd like to purchase. It will be my first SCUT, upgrading from a 425. It is a 2013 with 230 hours, 54D mower with mulching kit, H120 loader, and 53" bucket. Selling price is $11,900 which seems to be the reasonable going rate based on scouring the used market within 150 miles of here.

So what kind of things should I be looking at, looking for, testing, poking, sniffing, and tasting when checking the machine over? I am very eager to be getting this new toy tool, so I don't want to blindly overlook important things out of excitement.
:gizmo:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Take a measuring device and check to ensure the loader arms are reasonably true. Common fluid level checks. Let me think some more.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22,755 Posts
While it would be hard to check on a quick inspection, I would ask the owner if the drive shaft u-joints have been greased. Not terribly important with only 230 hours but probably should have been taken care of by now.

https://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/175000-greasing-hard-reach-1-series-driveshaft-u-joint-[video].html

Also unhook and hook up the mower deck. If it had been originally installed incorrectly it will be difficult to do. This can be fixed with an adjustment procedure but would be frustrating for you just buying it and finding out the first time you remove or install the deck.

https://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/3675-1026r-1025r-1023e-1-series-mower-setup-adjustment.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
375 Posts
Based on the picture it looks like the tractor is at a dealer so be sure to price out a new 1025R with the same configuration for comparison purposes. It will probably be in the $17,000 range with zero percent interest for 5 years. $5,000 more most likely isn't worth it, but getting a quote and having the numbers certainly wouldn't hurt. They can run the numbers while you test drive the used unit.

The used price seems very reasonable for the package. Be sure the tractor comes with rear ballast, like a ballast box. Rear ballast is required with a loader. If it doesn't come with a ballast box, have them include one as part of the deal or plan to spend another $300 just for the ballast box. It wouldn't hurt to see if they'd throw in a FilterPak at the same time (air filter, oil filter, fuel filters, transmission filter).

Plan on taking the mower deck off. Check the belt, tip the deck vertical and check the blades, grab the blades and try to rock them side to side (there should be no wiggle), get on your back to crawl underneath the tractor to check around for leaks, check the hydraulic hoses on the steering cylinder for rubbing or wear and the rubber boot where the cylinder connects to the wheel. It looks like it has the newer style loader so you shouldn't have to worry about cracked castings for the loader stand where the stand connects.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
723 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys. It is at a used equipment dealer. Most of their equipment is bought from Deere Financial (off lease or repos), or dealer trade in. They are not an actual JD dealer. I priced out new and it just wasn't practical. The 1026 get me basically the same machine for a bargain.

A weight box is not included. However I don't really want one due to the size. Instead I'm going to get a heavy hitch and 8 suitcase weights (and a front weight bar, and a tooth bar).

This shop has the weights for me, and I'm also going to pickup a used RH1060 back blade from them. They have HLA forks too but I might pass and get some Titans instead.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
979 Posts
I'm going to look at a 1026R this evening that I'd like to purchase. It will be my first SCUT, upgrading from a 425. It is a 2013 with 230 hours, 54D mower with mulching kit, H120 loader, and 53" bucket. Selling price is $11,900 which seems to be the reasonable going rate based on scouring the used market within 150 miles of here.

So what kind of things should I be looking at, looking for, testing, poking, sniffing, and tasting when checking the machine over? I am very eager to be getting this new toy tool, so I don't want to blindly overlook important things out of excitement.
:gizmo:

I had a defective alternator bracket on mine so look for that under the hood...At that amount of hours there is not much that could be wrong, as long as the oils were changed at least once. The 1026R(I'm biased:mocking:) may have been a better model than the 1025R ...less emissions means it won't smoke as much on startup...check on that when you start it, should be barely any smoke after pre heating the glow plugs.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,133 Posts
If it is a 2013, it is probably a 1025R. The 1026R was discontinued in 2012 and the 1025R replaced it in 2013. It could be an early year 2013 1026R because 2013 was the change over year, not that year is a big deal.

Check the steering cylinder hose for wear. This year tractor the one hose rubbed the tire when steering all the way to the left.

Check the air cleaner bracket for secure and also look at the air cleaner to engine connection hose to makes sure it isn't worn because it was hitting the hood.

See if the mmm lifts with the 3 point control, main SCV or rocker switch mounted in the dash panel, lower left. If it lifts with the 3 point control, then it has the mechanical lift. If it lifts with the SCV, then it has the optional hydraulic lift that uses a QC that must be plugged in at the FEL connections. If it has the rocker switch, then it has the independent hydraulic lift. With the mechanical lift, the 3 point will raise and lower when raising and lowering the mmm. With either of the hydraulic lift systems, the mmm lift and lower is independent of the 3 point.

If the mmm is mounted, start the tractor, engage the mid PTO, put range selector in low or high, release the parking brake and push the reverse propel pedal. See if the mmm shuts off or the engine stops when pushing the reverse pedal. Then turn the PTO off, restart the engine, if needed, turn the PTO back on, hold up on the PTO switch and back up. The engine or mmm should keep running now.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,133 Posts
I had a defective alternator bracket on mine so look for that under the hood...At that amount of hours there is not much that could be wrong, as long as the oils were changed at least once. The 1026R(I'm biased:mocking:) may have been a better model than the 1025R ...less emissions means it won't smoke as much on startup...check on that when you start it, should be barely any smoke after pre heating the glow plugs.
The 1025R has no emissions controls.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
967 Posts
Check the Transmission Filler Cap to ensure it has the updated version that prevents water from entering the Transmission. Check the front axle pivot points for leakage. Ensure the Drive line has been Greased. Check if the Loader arms are the updated version and not the ones with the Failing parking stand type. If it has the Power Beyond installed, consider it a bonus.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,728 Posts
The 1025R has no emissions controls.
Exactly, it is due to how they are tuned that they start poorly.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
723 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
:gizmo::gizmo::gizmo::gizmo::gizmo:


On advice here, I had them remove auto connect MMM to inspect it. It's a 60D, not a 54. Found it did need some work related to springs on the front draft arms and PTO. They have the parts in the shop and are taking care of it. Everything else seems to be in great shape and we went over it head to toe. What a pleasure to drive and operate. So comfortable.

Delivering Friday!
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,004 Posts
Congrats!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
719 Posts
Congrats on the purchase and what sounds like a very reasonable interaction with a used equipment dealer. Since you are also in MD, would you be willing to share the name of the dealer? It sounds like they should be on my radar! :bigthumb:

Lee
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
927 Posts
They have HLA forks too but I might pass and get some Titans instead.
Get the HLA forks, they are awesome. Although the Titans are a couple hundred bucks cheaper, the quality is not nearly as good, and you have to go through the delivery hassle. For reference, I paid just over $500 for my 42" HLA forks. Way better quality than the Titans.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
723 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I did end up getting the forks too. They were not the flimsy HLA 900lb forks after all. I forget what they actually we're now, but they were nice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
375 Posts
That sounds like a top notch used equipment dealer right there! Willing to go thru the machine with a fine tooth comb so there are no surprises.

That machine isn't even broken in yet, nice low hours.

Congrats!
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
18,004 Posts
Thanks guys. It is at a used equipment dealer. Most of their equipment is bought from Deere Financial (off lease or repos), or dealer trade in. They are not an actual JD dealer.
Did they have any used 3PH snowblowers?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
723 Posts
Discussion Starter #18

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,133 Posts
Exactly, it is due to how they are tuned that they start poorly.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Actually, it has nothing to do with "tuning" and the 1025R really doesn't start poorly. It has all to do with combustion chamber or intake air heat when starting any diesel in the cold temps. The glow plugs on the Yanmar is only on a timer so they stay on 8 seconds no matter what the ambient temperature is. This works fine unless it gets really cold.

Just cycle the glow plugs three times by turning the key on and off to recycle the glow plugs, cold start issue solved.

These engines are not electronic controlled at all so there is no special tuning, that is a misunderstanding of fuel injection. They simply have a high pressure injection system, nothing new.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,728 Posts
Actually, it has nothing to do with "tuning" and the 1025R really doesn't start poorly. It has all to do with combustion chamber or intake air heat when starting any diesel in the cold temps. The glow plugs on the Yanmar is only on a timer so they stay on 8 seconds no matter what the ambient temperature is. This works fine unless it gets really cold.

Just cycle the glow plugs three times by turning the key on and off to recycle the glow plugs, cold start issue solved.

These engines are not electronic controlled at all so there is no special tuning, that is a misunderstanding of fuel injection. They simply have a high pressure injection system, nothing new.
Ray, so you are saying the timing is not retarded, to lower the cylinder temps?

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top