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Discussion Starter #1
I was curious what others have used to unstick an engine? I have used Kroil on various frozen and rusted things, but never have used it for an engine. For years, I've heard others mention the 50/50 mixture of ATF and acetone, but never tried it myself. I know of one guy who soaked the cylinders on a Farmall 560 with just ATF, but it didn't free it up.

Some have just chained two tractors up (one in the front and one behind) to the stuck tractor and pulled it back and forth in gear to pop the engine free.

A JD model 70 is what I'm trying to free up the engine on.

On some engines I've seen an impact wrench used to turn the crank.
 

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Wow! Sounds like you have all kinds of options.

I really can not add any experience here as I have never attempted it. But, from what it sounds like you have some possiblities to think about. Slow and steady would be a recomendation and any type of penetrating fluid should work. I have heard of soaking things in diesel fuel to free them up. I wish you luck. And please keep us up to date on your project.
 

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Like Randy, I've never done it but here's what some local guys who restore tractors have done. Try at your own risk.

1. Squirt "Seafoam" down each cylinder and let it set for a while. Seafoam is a brand of penetrating lubricant that is better than WD-40 etc, according to these guys.

2. Put penetrating oil in each cylinder and let it set for awhile. Put the tractor is the highest gear and jack up one side so that the rear tire clears the ground. Rock the tire back and forth until the cylinder moves.

3. Pour coke-a-cola down the cylinder, no I'm not kidding, and let it set for awhile. Jack up the rear on one side and rock the tire back and forth.

I think the biggest thing is the "let it set awhile". Give the penetrating oil or coke time to eat the rust. One guys said, "it takes a while for the engine to stick and it will take a while to free it up.

Good luck.
 

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.....I drink at least one coke a day.I wonder what that has done to my innards:unknown:
 

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When I was kid (60years ago) the village blacksmith used Coke to dissolve rust off metal As stated above lots of time was was involved The transit time thru our stomachs is less then an hour
 

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Penetrating oil

I used some stuff called PB blaster on a 4 cylinder New Holland backhoe that was run out of oil. I pulled the injectors but didnt have to pull the drain plug as it was never tightened hence the run out of oil part. I emptied almost two and a half cans of PB blaster into the the cylinders and let it set for a week and it freed the engine up. I have used it on all kinds of stuff and seems to work pretty good, give it a shot if you can find it, I always get it at NAPA.
 

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I was curious what others have used to unstick an engine? I have used Kroil on various frozen and rusted things, but never have used it for an engine. For years, I've heard others mention the 50/50 mixture of ATF and acetone, but never tried it myself. I know of one guy who soaked the cylinders on a Farmall 560 with just ATF, but it didn't free it up.

Some have just chained two tractors up (one in the front and one behind) to the stuck tractor and pulled it back and forth in gear to pop the engine free.

A JD model 70 is what I'm trying to free up the engine on.

On some engines I've seen an impact wrench used to turn the crank.
I have used Marvel Oil on two engines. filled cylinders and let set a week and was able to free engine , agter blowing out remaining Marvel Oil engine started and ran. Comes in a Red can and I have found it at Walmart and Auto Zone.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the ideas. I've got a little bit of this and that at the shop and am mixing things together to make a home brew penetrating oil. I made a little experiment with some ingredients to see which ones were absorbed better and spread out on steel and wood surfaces. Brake fluid appears to be a better substance for penetrating tiny areas than tranny fluid. I'm trying to be careful and not mix anything that would cause a nasty chemical reaction. Acetone is one ingredient that I added to the brake fluid and other ingredients, including Kroil. Some other industrial strength things will be added to the mixture. I am wearing protective gloves to minimize skin contact and am mixing the stuff outdoors to allow the vapors to vent.
I am going to pour it through the spark plug holes and let it set a week and then see if things will free up. Will let y'all know what the results are.

Thanks again for the ideas.
 

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Never heard of using coke to free an engine, but it is really good at cleaning windshields. Put it on full strength, wipe around with a rag, then rinse off really well. Old cab driver's trick...

.....I drink at least one coke a day.I wonder what that has done to my innards:unknown:
Yeah, me too. Makes you wonder a little.
When I was kid (60years ago) the village blacksmith used Coke to dissolve rust off metal As stated above lots of time was was involved The transit time thru our stomachs is less then an hour
 

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Machinist's Workshop magazine did a test with various fluids to break free rusted bolts. The winner was acetone/ATF. I use it almost exclusivly on seized/frozen/rusted fasteners.

Here is one of many, many threads on it:

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=47279



Thanks for the ideas. I've got a little bit of this and that at the shop and am mixing things together to make a home brew penetrating oil. I made a little experiment with some ingredients to see which ones were absorbed better and spread out on steel and wood surfaces. Brake fluid appears to be a better substance for penetrating tiny areas than tranny fluid. I'm trying to be careful and not mix anything that would cause a nasty chemical reaction. Acetone is one ingredient that I added to the brake fluid and other ingredients, including Kroil. Some other industrial strength things will be added to the mixture. I am wearing protective gloves to minimize skin contact and am mixing the stuff outdoors to allow the vapors to vent.
I am going to pour it through the spark plug holes and let it set a week and then see if things will free up. Will let y'all know what the results are.

Thanks again for the ideas.
 

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We attempted to pull the Model A with another tractor and break the engine loose but had no luck and ended up burning up the clutch. After the clutch went we used grease to unstick the cylinder. The trick was to find the cylinder that was closer to top dead center, break a sparkplug turning it into a bushing and welding a grease zerk where the spark plug inards were located. Once you have this done, screw the sparkplug/zerk into the spark plug hole and start pumping in grease. Once the cylinder is full of grease the force on top of the pistion from the grease will start moving the cylinder down in the block as more grease is pumped in. Once the engine is loose, the starter can be used to push the grease out of the sparkplug hole. The tractor will smoke and smell a little bit until all the residual grease is burned out to the cylinder. The down side is the amount of black grease wasted, but it seems to be better for the transmission and clutch. I hope this gives another option
 

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Discussion Starter #13
We attempted to pull the Model A with another tractor and break the engine loose but had no luck and ended up burning up the clutch. After the clutch went we used grease to unstick the cylinder. The trick was to find the cylinder that was closer to top dead center, break a sparkplug turning it into a bushing and welding a grease zerk where the spark plug inards were located. Once you have this done, screw the sparkplug/zerk into the spark plug hole and start pumping in grease. Once the cylinder is full of grease the force on top of the pistion from the grease will start moving the cylinder down in the block as more grease is pumped in. Once the engine is loose, the starter can be used to push the grease out of the sparkplug hole. The tractor will smoke and smell a little bit until all the residual grease is burned out to the cylinder. The down side is the amount of black grease wasted, but it seems to be better for the transmission and clutch. I hope this gives another option
Thanks for that idea. It seems as though I have heard of that before, but never tried it myself. If this first attempt of the penetrating oil doesn't work, I will consider trying the grease. Thanks for the reminder.
I know that some people have done damage to a tractor when attempting to pull it in gear, in order to free a stuck engine. There's an Oliver 88 waiting on me to unstick it too, but I'm not going to pull it either. Going to try the penetrating oil and or grease gun method.
Did you use an air operated grease gun or just the manual hand pump/cartridge type?
 

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Jacking up one wheel and rocking by hand has worked for me. Also I would remove the rocker arm cover and remove the rocker arms. If you have a stuck valve and do get the enginie to move, something is going to have to move and it might not be the valve. Tap the ends of the valve stems with a hammer. You will be able to tell real quick if they are stuck or not.

On a B one time I broke the square couping to the oil pump because the pump was stuck. You need to look at the big picture not just getting the engine to turn over.

Dan D.
 

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Last time I helped free a stuck block this is how it was done.

Remove head and block from tractor with pistons and conecting rods still in block. Support block in upright positionn and soak stuck pistons in brake fulid. Minor tapping with a block of wood and hammer can assist after it has sat for a day or two. Clean block and machine as necessary.
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Just about have the old girl unstuck. I've been real busy with other things and haven't gotten to work on the 70 as much as I thought. The motor is real close to freeing up completely. Have been soaking the pistons in a combination of penetrating oil and ATF+ acetone.
 

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Just about have the old girl unstuck. I've been real busy with other things and haven't gotten to work on the 70 as much as I thought. The motor is real close to freeing up completely. Have been soaking the pistons in a combination of penetrating oil and ATF+ acetone.
Thanks for the update G & R Man. Those kinda things take time but, sounds like you are headed in the right direction. Just slow and easy. Are you starting to get things to move for ya? If ya think of it we sure would like to see your progress.
 

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As to the coke or cola products. It is the phosphoric acid which converts the rust or at least the first product of corrosion to a soluble form. You can get a dedicated phosphoric acid product at NAPA, or/at least, I have years ago. Steel fishing boats get the stuff in gallon jugs and spray the boat with pump up sprayer on the way back to dock. As for the effect on your body. I heard this on the radio and it checks out via search engines on the internet. The phosphoric acid via some process you must investigate and attempt to understand on your own causes the calcium in your bones to go into solution. Know one low 50's age woman who is a real coke (cola type but pepsi hater) enthusiats that had a knee replacement. Ginger ale, sprite to mention a few have an acid but not phosphoric acid.

I never freed up a johnny popper tractor and assume they are the two cylinder kind like A model. The engines I have freed up were in line vertical and I took the head off and pounded on the top of the pistons with a properly sized log and hammer. I am sure I put a wrench on the crank nut somewhere and used penetrating fluid. I never thought about rotating the wheel but you could put some torque via nylon strap and come along in addition to what I did. The one with a raised center portion needed the log hollowed out to accomidate that.

fran
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks for the update G & R Man. Those kinda things take time but, sounds like you are headed in the right direction. Just slow and easy. Are you starting to get things to move for ya? If ya think of it we sure would like to see your progress.
Randy,

Yes, the pistons are beginning to budge some, but I've been really gentle and not wanting to rush things. I'll take some pics next time. Had to store the tractor at a rural location that's not close by at all, instead of bringing her closer to home. I have a good reason for that and will explain at a later date. Since the ole girl is not close by, it sure makes it harder and more time consuming to get things accomplished.:thumbsdown:

I was planning to have her disassembled before the end of 2011, but we all know how plans sometimes don't cooperate.:frown: When I can get some other things completed, then I plan to get me,myself, and I,(the three of us):laugh: back out in the boon docks to get that green and yellow creature poppin again.:thumbup1gif:
 

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Sounds like ya got this thing on the run.........

Guess I'd just like to add, that I'd vote "No", on the towing 'to and fro" and also the "Impact wrench on Crank" as well as the "One wheel jack, the other spun", fixes, all for the same reason: These methods all use the piston rod as the primary force on the 'stuck piston'! I would fear a bent rod, or connecting pin in the process. I like the "Soak and Sit" the best, followed by the "Grease-Packing"! Ya gotta admit, this advise is worth exactly what you paid for it! :lol: Keep us posted! Gotta luv those "Poppers".............~Scotty

PS Just a note on the "Coke": I would think the sugar I'd not want in the cylinders, however, I've used it for rust removal back when Car Bumpers were "Steel and Chromed" (Dating one's self here!) ~S
 
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