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Hi,

I purchased a new extended hook for my ihitch and was trying last weekend to remove the nuts. I have a very large wrench but I cannot get the nut to come loose.

Is this normal and do I just need to give it more pressure by maybe using an extension to get more leverage?

The hitch is about 3 years old and not left out in the weather. (my tractor has a nice home) I have used WD40 but that didnt help.

Thanks for your help!:greentractorride:
 
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Yes the factory nuts are on there tight as sin. I used a 3 foot piece of pipe on a 1/2" ratchet to get mine off.
 

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Try some other penetrant, IIrC PB blaster tested very well in a YouTube video.

Try an impact wrench, sometimes the hammering of an impact is more effective in starting a stick fastener than pure torque is.

Heat, heat the nut, not the bolt and try removing it.

Lastly try more brute force with a longer extension, etc.
 

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I agree with others and will add WD-40 isn't a penetrating fluid that will help much. You are better off getting a penetrating fluid. They are also best to spray, let it sit overnight and do it again. Keep repeating until you break it free.

In the military we would use "cheater bars" which were large sections of metal pipe with an opening big enough to go over the handle on a 1/2" or 3/4" breaker bar. A pipe that is 4' long or so will loosen about anything we ever tried to mess with. Well it will either loosen it, break the bolt or the breaker bar. The tricky part is keeping the socket on the end of the bolt/nut. You can strip them pretty easily if you don't keep things lined up.
 

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Honestly fellas, mine broke free easily with an extension. Didn't need heat, oil, impact, etc. Just a longer lever did the trick.
 

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I agree with others and will add WD-40 isn't a penetrating fluid that will help much. You are better off getting a penetrating fluid. They are also best to spray, let it sit overnight and do it again. Keep repeating until you break it free.

In the military we would use "cheater bars" which were large sections of metal pipe with an opening big enough to go over the handle on a 1/2" or 3/4" breaker bar. A pipe that is 4' long or so will loosen about anything we ever tried to mess with. Well it will either loosen it, break the bolt or the breaker bar. The tricky part is keeping the socket on the end of the bolt/nut. You can strip them pretty easily if you don't keep things lined up.
Been there/done that with my pickup a couple years ago.

Making a long story short - getting the lug nuts off my F-150 one year to change over to winter set took a 1/2 breaker bar with a 5’ pipe. I thought each and every one would break something with all the force I was putting on the pipe. When the lug nuts broke loose there was a heck of a “bang”.

I was using a really old set of S-K tools at the time. I had to use a 2” extension so I could keep the breaker bar/pipe in line. Like you said it’s hard to keep the socket square on the nut. On the very last one - the 32nd nut - something did break - it was the 2” extension. But the nut must have broken loose at the same time.

I won’t get into the whole story but in the end I had a long talk with the shop supervisor at the Ford dealership shop.
 

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The top hook on the iMatch is notoriously very tight.

Got mine loose with a 25” breaker bar - a tool I use a lot since I don’t have much power in my hands anymore.

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-25-in-professional-breaker-bar-62729.html

I bought the cheaper version that does not have the "rubber" handle grip. Also 1/2" and 25" long. :good2:
For when it wont work, I bought a 3/4" drive breaker bar with a 40" handle and a 3/4' to 1/2" adapter :good2:

Now I am thinking of getting a 3/4" ratchet head and 36" handle :laugh: Been looking at used ones on ebay
 

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I bought the cheaper version that does not have the "rubber" handle grip. Also 1/2" and 25" long. :good2:
For when it wont work, I bought a 3/4" drive breaker bar with a 40" handle and a 3/4' to 1/2" adapter :good2:

Now I am thinking of getting a 3/4" ratchet head and 36" handle :laugh: Been looking at used ones on ebay
I just use a 5’ cheater pipe if I need it. If I break the HF breaker bar it’s no big deal as I paid around $15 for it.

If that isn’t enough then I have no business messing with it.

However - I just finally broke down and ordered a Milwaukee Fuel mid torque impact wrench this morning. It’s something I’ve needed for a long time. I didn’t opt for the big boy max torque job because, again, if I need something like that I shouldn’t be messing with it.
 

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Several years ago I had to put a bushing, which was left off by the dealer, on the center link frame on my MX7 rotary cutter. The nut was impossible to remove with wrench, cheater bar, impact wrench, torque multiplier, etc. Wound up cutting the bolt at the head with a sawzall to remove. Believe the bolt was a grade 8 so cutting it was a job also, until I put rotary cutter on jack stands so that the frame flex was removed. Dealer admitted they left the bushing off but said no problem to install so said OK give me the bushing and I’ll get this done in just a few minutes. A few minutes turned into a couple of hours but won the battle, so to speak.


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Honestly fellas, mine broke free easily with an extension. Didn't need heat, oil, impact, etc. Just a longer lever did the trick.
I agree, honestly mine came off quite easily with a 1/2" impact.
 

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Someone mentioned keeping things lined up. I'll just add that you're probably well served by using a 6-point impact socket (thick walls) rather than a 12-point regular socket if you're going to be using a big breaker/cheater bar.

Although the chances of it are pretty slim, a regular socket has the potential of breaking if you're putting a huge amount of pressure on it. Wear safety glasses regardless.



This has been a public service announcement by the GTT Safety Police! :good2:

:hide:

NOTE: In all seriousness, I would wear safety glasses while trying to break something loose.
 

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I always keep cheater bars or a length of pipe around for such things. Wd40 over night and impact wrench are options I’ve used to. Usually a long enough leverage pipe gets it done.


2011 diesel 1026R mmm with FEL , box blade, WR long tooth bar , 4’ bush hog and 25gal sprayer all on the imatch hookup.
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Put the WD-40 out in the shed and get yourself a can of Kroil for penetrating oil. Then do your future self a favor and put some antiseize on those bolts when you put them back in.

Whenever possible if you are breaking a nut/bolt avoid using extensions. Extensions eatup a lot of torque by twisting the middle of the extension before the torque gets put into the fastener.
 

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I've found for the really stubborn ones heat, and candlewax (for lubrication ) works better than penetrating oil as the heat pulls the wax into the threads
 

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Seems like it always takes a lot more effort to remove a nut/bolt than was used to put it on. Add some rust/corrosion and the effort goes way up.

I use 6 point impact sockets all the time taking things off, and one of my impact wrenches is my first choice tool. If the corrosion is fairly light a little good penetrating oil really helps. I have found on really rusted fasteners I have to burn the rust off first. Iron oxide actually swells up a bit and locks it in tight. I spent a week once trying to get a wheel, and then the rotor, off an old Ranger. Since I was replacing most of it anyway I spent the last two days with the propane torch. I didn't have any bettet at the time.

I have tried (and still have) all kinds of things to get rusted nuts/bolts off. I had a Datsun (old, I know) where none of the bolts came off. The steel was so soft they all just twisted apart. Then I had to drill them out and retap the hole. I have found that the impact wrench does less damage to the nut/bolt than just increasing the torque with an extender.

For me I grabbed the impact driver, 6 point socket, and backup wrench and the old bolts came out easily when I put Ken's hook on. But then, my whole tractor setup was only about 6 months old.
 

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I think this is just a situation where the bolt is tighter than the OP's tool's ability to loosen it. He already stated that the hitch is only 3 years old and it has always been stored indoors. So I don't think we're dealing with rusted or corroded fasteners.

I suspect the OP doesn't have access to a breaker bar or impact wrench. Some of these larger fasteners can be a bit of a challenge with just a standard sized ratchet or wrench.

I'm willing to bet that if the OP gets access to a breaker bar or longer handled ratchet that the bolts will loosen right up.
 

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EDCF5132-EAED-41F3-8F3A-EEE6367D5DC4.jpeg

I use this on big stuff with a 3’ stainless pipe I cut off a low bed a couple years ago. We have to change out cutting edges with plow bolts on big excavator buckets in the field and sometimes don’t have access to air. It might bend but won’t break if your reefing on it.
 
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