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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Back to GTT after a long break. 1026R now has 300 hours on it, last service was 200 hours at the dealer about 2.5 years ago (need to confirm). I can borrow friends trailer and take it to the dealer, but I'm guessing (need to call) that its $300+, plus time. Or do it myself like I did with the original service on it (50 hours if I remember right, I followed the service plan). Looks like I can get the 200 hr service kit for about $179 on green parts.com or go to dealer (about 25 min drive) and buy local. Question: What do you suggest for my next service interval..the full 200 hr service (leaning that way due to time) or something else?

I'm out the door to fix the loose joystick, hose the whole thing off (done with grass cutting for the season), store the MMM deck and move the snow plow & harness to where its easier to attach once I get the maintenance service done..next week?
 

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The service interval is actually 200 hours OR annual, so IMO do the full service.
 

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Do it now if you have the time.

If it were me and you have the time do a full service now. I aleays end up taking longer as stuff gets in the way. Run the PTO immediately on start up to purge air from hydro after filter and oil change. Ask me how I know lol

You can save a few bucks buying the filter kit instead of everything individualy. Kit is LVA21035 is 58.13 at Green Farm Parts. Engine oil filter, both fuel filters, hydro filter and outer air filter.

5 gallons of low vis hyguard is 82.24

Use code GTT for 5% off your order. Free shipping over $49 as well.

Should be enough hyguard to change hydro and front axel with some left over.

I used Shell Rotella T6 5-W40. It's a full synthetic oil for diesel engines. $20 from Wally world for 5 qts. You only need about 3.5 quarts for our yannmar's. Not sure what JD recomends or what type of oil it is. Ie synthetic/blend/conventional etc.

Is there another kit that includes the inner air filter and engine oil? Just curious.

I swap air filter annually. The inner filter every other time unless it is noticeably dirty. This was the skip cycle so I saved a few bucks. Please note I do not mow with my tractor. Mainly loader work. Mowing puts out a ton of dust so you may want to follow prescribed maintenance on the inner filter.

Ps welcome back
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I went ahead and ordered the $179 all inclusive kit from GFP with the 7% discount. Thanks for the help!
 

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If it were me and you have the time do a full service now. I aleays end up taking longer as stuff gets in the way. Run the PTO immediately on start up to purge air from hydro after filter and oil change. Ask me how I know lol

You can save a few bucks buying the filter kit instead of everything individualy. Kit is LVA21035 is 58.13 at Green Farm Parts. Engine oil filter, both fuel filters, hydro filter and outer air filter.

5 gallons of low vis hyguard is 82.24

Use code GTT for 5% off your order. Free shipping over $49 as well.

Should be enough hyguard to change hydro and front axel with some left over.

I used Shell Rotella T6 5-W40. It's a full synthetic oil for diesel engines. $20 from Wally world for 5 qts. You only need about 3.5 quarts for our yannmar's. Not sure what JD recomends or what type of oil it is. Ie synthetic/blend/conventional etc.

Is there another kit that includes the inner air filter and engine oil? Just curious.

I swap air filter annually. The inner filter every other time unless it is noticeably dirty. This was the skip cycle so I saved a few bucks. Please note I do not mow with my tractor. Mainly loader work. Mowing puts out a ton of dust so you may want to follow prescribed maintenance on the inner filter.

Ps welcome back
Bobby,
Why so frequently with the air filter? I have the filter minder on mine, which is 5 years old, and it has not moved off the base reading. That being said, yes I did test it to see if it did move. I think this is the reason that JD stopped including them on the machines. To low of turn of filter stock.
Bill
Ps had a shibura mfg tractor before and never changed the filter in 17 years. Still running strong at 22 years old.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 

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I swap air filter annually. The inner filter every other time unless it is noticeably dirty. This was the skip cycle so I saved a few bucks. Please note I do not mow with my tractor. Mainly loader work. Mowing puts out a ton of dust so you may want to follow prescribed maintenance on the inner filter.
Wow... changing the air filters annually is probably way over kill, especially if you don't mow. I usually check mine with a light and at 5 years they are almost like new. Some experts say that a slightly dirty filter actually provides better filtration than a new filter. I don't quite understand that notion.

I wish they put filter flow gauges on all the tractors as it really helps avoid wasting money changing filters prematurely.
Does the 200hr service kit include the hydraulic fluid and filter?

If so what is the part#?

thanks
I've never been a big fan of the "kits" unless there is a huge cost savings - which there usually isn't. I much prefer just having a few of each filter on hand. Sometimes you may have to change a filter for reasons other than scheduled maintenance and having them ale cart is handy. This is especially true for fuel filters.

Even on the L&G equipment the kits rarely make sense. I prefer to change the fuel filter more often and reduce the instances of throwing away perfectly good spark plugs.
 

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A slightly dirty air filter is more efficient because the larger “holes” are filled with debris making the remaining holes smaller. Therefore less dirt passes through and the filter becomes better. Now filtering efficiency isn’t the same as engine performance, so as the filter becomes more efficient at pulling the dirt out of the air, the engine works harder at pulling the air through the filter.

This is why I recommend the “flip the filter over and use the clean side” method. You get twice the mileage out of the same filter.

Ok, the last paragraph was a complete joke. Please do not flip your filter even if it is possible. :lol:
 

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A slightly dirty air filter is more efficient because the larger “holes” are filled with debris making the remaining holes smaller. Therefore less dirt passes through and the filter becomes better. Now filtering efficiency isn’t the same as engine performance, so as the filter becomes more efficient at pulling the dirt out of the air, the engine works harder at pulling the air through the filter.

This is why I recommend the “flip the filter over and use the clean side” method. You get twice the mileage out of the same filter.

Ok, the last paragraph was a complete joke. Please do not flip your filter even if it is possible.
I agree. Common sence.

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200hr service kit 153036
Hydro filter, both fuel filters, inner and outer air filter, engine oil filter, 3 qts jd engine oil, 4 gal hyguard for $179

I bought kit LVA21035 (doesnt come with inner air filter, Jd engine oil or hygyard) for 58.13 + 5 gallon jug of hyguard 82.24 + 6 qts shell rotella $20= 160.37 i think the inner filter is about $18 so the kits work out almost the same. The extra hyguard is nice if your doing your front axle fluid change.

As to why I swap out air filters each year. Force of habit from working on big expensive heavy equipment. Air filters are cheap compared to rebuilding engines. If you think John Deere puts gold in their paint you should see what CAT equipment costs lol.

My tractor does alot of dirt work in sandy/dusty areas. Dirt particulate espicialy silica can wear a diesel out prematurley. I would not say the filter was nasty or anything but it was noticeably dirty. Ive definatley ran equipment where the owners just didnt give an elf. One had, I **** you not, a sock inplace of the filter. It was so caked with dirt the machine was sputtering and running terrible. Swaped the dirty sock with one of my socks I was wearing and operated the rest of the day. Ghetto field fix! Machine is probably still running with my sock hahaha
 
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