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The drive shaft from my 2520 to my wood chipper is a few inches too short. The advice I need is to weld a piece on the shaft end, weld a piece on the receiver end, weld both, or buy a new driveshaft $$. The shaft is slightly more than 1" square. Thanks
Drive shaft 2.jpg Drive shaft 1.jpg
 

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Old Pa-pa
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The drive shaft from my 2520 to my wood chipper is a few inches too short. The advice I need is to weld a piece on the shaft end, weld a piece on the receiver end, weld both, or buy a new driveshaft $$. The shaft is slightly more than 1" square. Thanks
View attachment 45606 View attachment 45607
I've welded non critical round shafts with a 7018 low hydrogen rod by laying them in
a thick piece of angle iron and clamping them down in the "V".
Butted them after really beveling them, than built up pass after pass with the 7018.

What you have there is something really critical and fast spinning, I would go for
the $$$ and get the right shaft, you don't want that flying apart or even being unbalanced.

Cajun
 

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If you took off the quick hitch and attached directly to the 3pt arms, would it work OK then ???
If that is all it takes to make it work, a way to save some $....
It is possible the square shaft and tube are metric...

Good luck..
 

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I went to a local trucking company , Did a great job for me plus saved about $200.00 .. Check around your area , a machine shop or a trucking company can fix you up and save you some money. The company even had to order in the correct size shaft.
 

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Most folks think, ahhh...it's just a driveshaft.
BUT! If it isn't balanced exactly right, you're going to have one HECK of a vibration problem, not to mention possibly R&R'ing bearings and yokes in the very near future.
Good luck.
 

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Good post gbnpp05. :good2:
 

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I was just about to recommend the same thing. I just used one a few weekends ago for my tiller. Worked great.

Also gonna say if I knew a source for the driveshaft rod I would have welded mine up myself. 540 rpm isn't very fast IMO. Ya I wouldn't want to get tangled up in it cause it could kill ya. But, I have seen several off road rigs with square shafts welded up and under a crapload of abuse that hold just fine. Plus they're turning a lot faster. If you keep things straight and can do a consistent weld it should be pretty balanced from the get go. If you can't, then get a new one or the adapter. $.02

Jim


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Get an overrunning clutch adapter, it'll solve your length issue and save wear on your PTO brake.

540 RPM shafts do not need to be balanced. Balancing a PTO shaft is essentially infective due to the large clearances in the splines and sliding tube sections. The more important thing is that it's properly made. If it vibrates it's because of excessive runout, and so much runout that causes vibration at 540 cannot really be corrected by balancing. I would never suggest lengthening one, but rather cutting the tube off and replacing it with a longer tube. You can buy the yokes and tubes etc to make your own, I have done this to replace a shaft that is no longer available from JD. I've also made drive shafts for highway vehicles that spin 6000+ RPM, those should have been balanced but I've gotten away with it.
 

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Get an overrunning clutch adapter, it'll solve your length issue and save wear on your PTO brake.

540 RPM shafts do not need to be balanced. Balancing a PTO shaft is essentially infective due to the large clearances in the splines and sliding tube sections. The more important thing is that it's properly made. If it vibrates it's because of excessive runout, and so much runout that causes vibration at 540 cannot really be corrected by balancing. I would never suggest lengthening one, but rather cutting the tube off and replacing it with a longer tube. You can buy the yokes and tubes etc to make your own, I have done this to replace a shaft that is no longer available from JD. I've also made drive shafts for highway vehicles that spin 6000+ RPM, those should have been balanced but I've gotten away with it.
Makes sense, great advise. :thumbup1gif:
 

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One of the experts on here have posted about using one of these before

Adapter Pto Forged Extender by Speeco for $19.99 : Rural King
SpeeCo PTO Extender - Tractor Supply Co.



•1-3/8 in. female (6-spline) to 1-3/8 in. male (6-spline)
•5-1/8 in. length. Extends PTO 2-15/16 in.
Not sure if this one fits the 540 PTO
Yep, I have one to make my life easier since my Quick-Hitch makes it more difficult to get at the PTO shaft.

That is NOT the one I would recommend, it requires a hole in the PTO stub shaft that most modern tractors do NOT have, and its needs to be pinned on with a roll-pin.

This one, from Agri-Supply is a MUCH better choice since it will lock in the groove of any modern PTO stub shaft:
Pto Adapter


11971.jpg
 

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Ya but that is the wrong type of input. They do make them correct though, I have one in my garage.

Just make sure it has the 5 spline with a groove on male end and 5 spline female with a mechanism to catch the groove on the other.


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Ya but that is the wrong type of input. They do make them correct though, I have one in my garage.

Just make sure it has the 5 spline with a groove on male end and 5 spline female with a mechanism to catch the groove on the other.


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If we're splitting hairs, it's actually 6 splines on PTO shafts.
 

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Ha. Yup, it's early. :)


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Ya but that is the wrong type of input. They do make them correct though, I have one in my garage.

Just make sure it has the 5 spline with a groove on male end and 5 spline female with a mechanism to catch the groove on the other.


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If we're splitting hairs, it's actually 6 splines on PTO shafts.
The picture is incorrect (copied from the agri supply page), but the link takes you to the correct one.
 

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That is NOT the one I would recommend, it requires a hole in the PTO stub shaft that most modern tractors do NOT have, and its needs to be pinned on with a roll-pin.

This one, from Agri-Supply is a MUCH better choice since it will lock in the groove of any modern PTO stub shaft:
Pto Adapter


View attachment 45681
To further clarify...I have this type with the 6 male x 6 female splines.
 
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