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Go check out ABI Attachments. They have a gravel rake that I would consider buying for myself if I had more gravel drives to do. I use my rake on my gravel but i dont dig in. I have it set so its mostlly pulling and not digging.

i really want a set of wheels for it. Just need my welding neighbor to build me a set. Just need a few more pieces, wheel kits have doubled in price. Ridiculous!


Good luck!

WB 馃殰馃嚭馃嚥
 
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I have a question somewhat related to what the OP asked. I've been using my landscape rake (LR2060L) on my 1025R to attempt to get rocks out of a field I want to seed. It sorta does OK, and with the rake at an angle, I can move most of the rocks into windrows, as others have suggested. The rake, however, tends to move quite a bit of the soft dirt as well.

My question is once I have these windrows of dirt and rocks, how do I get rid of them? Currently, I've been using a plastic tine rake to sorta fling them into the FEL bucket, but that takes forever. Does anyone have a technique to pick
them up that works well? The windrows are not very tall, so I don't think the loader could pick them up by itself - I think it would just push them aside and not scoop them up.

Sorry if this is a really dumb newbie question.... :)
If you have a toothbar on and you are digging in trying to pick up the windrows, take it off so you have the smooth cutting edge of your bucket. Level up your bucket. You can use the level rod on the fel. Then set the bucket down at the start of your windrow. Just the weight of it on the ground . Slightly tilt your bucket down, just enough so you are getting under the windrow. You will have to adjust on the fly, as the terrain is always changing. You will aways collect some dirt when picking up the rocks. You will need to work the fel up and down as you move along picking up the windrow.
You will find it will take a little practice and speed is the key. Sometimes you can just use low gear and its fast enough to skim along and pick it up. Sometimes high gear is needed because the dirt is too hard and the rocks just bounce out in front of you n not into the bucket.

I use the rake just like you do. Ive been doing it like this for many years. You will get to the point you can pick up just about anything without leaving the seat. I have my toothbar on almost all year round. You can get to that point to.

Just practice.
 

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I just finished reading the rest of the thread. Wish i could have seen it earlier. Could have helped you sooner. Next time..
 

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Hi Wenton,

Thanks for the feedback! I realize with many tractor related operations, I often don't give it enough of a try. I use
an implement, it doesn't work, I fiddle a bit, and then give up and try something different. A good example is both
the box blade and the rake. In both cases, initial grading, and rock windrowing operations, respectively, were not
big successes. But, as I fiddled and didn't find anything better, I realized both could do the job, it just took lots
of finesse!

I don't have the gauge wheels for the rake. Without the wheels, it's really hard to keep the rake depth consistent,
especially if your field isn't really well graded. But, after I got the field better graded (lots of driving around with
the box blade!), I found the rake worked much better. But, I had to be watching it continually, driving slowly, and
constantly adjusting the position control lever. I suspect it's better and way easier with the wheels, but they cost
$600 and I can't bring myself to spend that money on a $900 rake.

When I ordered the tractor, a neighbor recommended not getting a toothbar. My place is in Tuolumne County
and we joke that we grow rocks around here. So, the FEL bucket hits rocks all the time and stalls out. Thus, the
technique is to "chew" up the ground with the BH a bit first, remove any huge rocks, and then come back with the
FEL. I think at that point, after the BH work, the toothbar could be very useful. Ive read they greatly increase the
digging capability of the FEL as long as you don't hit big boulders.

So, since I didn't have a toothbar, I had been trying to pick up the windrows with the toothbar-less bucket. I just
hadn't stuck with it long enough.

I was also going perpendicular to the direction of the windrow. I'm guessing from your description that it would
work best to run down the whole windrow scooping it up. Or to go as far as one could before the bucket got
full in the center and the dirt/rocks started to spill out.

I actually have some more area where I wanna try to get rid of the rocks, so I'll try the technique you described.

I'm having a hard time learning to use the tractor to work smarter and maybe a bit slower rather than plunging in
and doing things by hand. The latter usually messes up my lower back so you'd think I'd learn... LOL

Thanks,
Mike
Your welcome Mike. I will fill the bucket so much on the start of picking up the windrow. Stop, raise the bucket up and rock it back to make more room. Then drop it down and go til I have to do it again or just go dump it.
It takes practice and i have little patience to. I want it to work right now. I totally get what you are saying.

I dont have wheels on my rake either. I should have bought them when they were just over $200 at TSC. I can build a set, I have most of what I need in my garage. Just need my welder neighbor to have time to do it for me.

I change the angle on mine so it is pulling more than digging. With the tines almost straight up n down they wont pull up the rocks you dont want them to.

There are several toothbars out there. Some for heavy digging and grubbing. Or like I have made by WR Long. They are flat along the bottom so I can leave them on most of the time. They handle most of the digging. I do and there are times when I am in the really hard clay. I wish they were more aggressive but thats not the main reason I got them. I can dig and backdrag without leaving tooth marks in the dirt when I am finish grading. Plus I can pick up windrows too. They work well for me. There will always be some hand work but very little if i have it my way.

The only time I really take it off is if I am scrapping ice or really hardpacked snow off of the driveways.

You can use your rake to to fil in holes or cut down high spots. Takes some extra work than a bb. You can also set your rake at a specific height with the stop knob onthe 3pt hitch lever guide. I use mine so i dont have to look down or back to see what height the rake is. I also can see it in my mirrors so i dont have to turn around as much. With my bad back the mirrors are a big help. Plus you can hear the rake on the ground so that helps too.

I had posted some pics about a month or so ago of me grading and redoing parts of my lawn from a temp rock road we to have for construction access. I just used the fel and rake. I am pretty sure you can look on my profile and see them if you like? I can post them here i suppose too.

Good luck!
Jason
 
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