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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I have a couple of questions regarding getting the air out of the fuel lines. I was following another thread about 'FearTheDeere's' shaking engine and the suggestions to change out the fuel filters. My engine did something similar last week. I started the engine and it sounded like it was running on two cylinders, but when I shut it down and re-started it, it ran fine. Question one, what could make it run like that only momentarily? (I got the updated air filter last year.)
Next question, if I were to change the fuel filters would I introduce air into the fuel lines?
Final question, if I did introduce air into the fuel lines, how do I get it out?
Thanks for any help you can provide.
 

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what kind of tractor are we working on :dunno: most of the new diesel engines are self bleeding :thumbup1gif: but I usually fill the new filter up with fuel before installing it
 
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Sorry, 2018 1025r. When you say self bleeding, does that apply to only small amounts of air? I ask because I came close to running out of fuel one day.
 

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Hi, I have a couple of questions regarding getting the air out of the fuel lines. I was following another thread about 'FearTheDeere's' shaking engine and the suggestions to change out the fuel filters. My engine did something similar last week. I started the engine and it sounded like it was running on two cylinders, but when I shut it down and re-started it, it ran fine. Question one, what could make it run like that only momentarily? (I got the updated air filter last year.)
Next question, if I were to change the fuel filters would I introduce air into the fuel lines?
Final question, if I did introduce air into the fuel lines, how do I get it out?
Thanks for any help you can provide.
Strange. Newer model diesels don't have that issue as far as I know but what you describe could be an injector acting up? I have had issues with that and now i always use a quality fuel additive to improve the lubricity. Are you useing off road fuel?
 

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Yes, the dyed fuel usually from the local Esso station. Dyed fuel is about 20 cents per liter cheaper than road fuel here. Normally I put conditioner in it, but I know I didn't last fill up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
bmicheal, there was a lot of good information in that thread, thanks for mentioning it. It answers a lot of questions. I'll keep an eye on the rough running as the 2 year warranty comes up at the end of August.
 

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Final question, if I did introduce air into the fuel lines, how do I get it out?
Thanks for any help you can provide.
I have the same tractor as you. After you change out both fuel filters and you are ready to start the engine: Turn the key to the glow plug position as normal. You will hear the clicking of the fuel pump working. Watch the glass on the engine filter and wait for the glass to fill all the way up with fuel. Turn off the key and crank normally. That way the glow plugs will still by ready. It may sputter a few times and smoke a little at first. That's all there is to it.
 

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To my knowledge, which may not be too correct, over the road diesel and off road diesel are the same cetane rating and the same "cleanliness". Home heating oil, often called No. 2 diesel, is about the same cetane but contains a LOT of lint and you'll replace filters often.

I believe the only difference between over & off road is the color and the price! Bob
 

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May I ask what difference you think off-road vs on-road fuel will make in how a diesel engine runs? Both types are the same where I live except for the red dye.
Thanks,Jim
They come outa the same pipeline from the refinery, but an additive package is added to the on road D. I use an additive to both as I have watched my neighbor trash trucks by using off and on road D without an additive.I look at it as cheap insurance
The additive package varies with brand and is designed to protect emissions control systems in on road d engines as well as improve lubricity. No requirement to do this for off road D so it can lead to expensive repairs over time.
 
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