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Anyone have any tips on getting the tractor in line with the deck so the pins on the tractor line up with the receiver slots on the deck?

When I did my first deck removal, it was a piece of cake to reverse the process and reattach. That was because the tractor only moved back and forth with no side to side movement. I immediately remounted the deck after un-mounting it, so the tractor only moved back and forth. Lately, when driving up to the unmounted deck, I have no problem aligning the left front tire with the 1/2" rod by the drive over bracket, but that does not necessarily mean the rear of the tractor is dead on perpendicular to the deck. If the rear of the tractor is an inch or 2 too far left or right, the pins on the tractor won't be aligned with the slots in the deck, making a retry necessary which means trial and error jockeying to get the tractor into correct alignment on the subsequent attempts. Took 3 attempts last night to get a connection.
 

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Use that silver thing on the front of your hood to aim between the front bracket arms. Make sure you give yourself enough room to approach so that you straighten out relative to the deck. It helps to have a good sense of "straight" and "not straight." If it doesn't feel straight, backup and reorient. Eventually it will be second nature.

Also, make sure the tires are evenly spaced relative to the ramps, and, as you said, the guide rod.

I never think I'm aligned well enough for the PTO shaft to find that small opening in the autoconnector, but somehow it always does.
 

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Yes it does take some talent to get it right the first time. But still the best thing out there. I have more issue with the height at the rear engaginging the slot. Seems the carrier does not drop down low enough to cleanly engage. I have the separate hydraulic cylinder and that has it's issue of not dropping with out the weight of the deck. I will be modifying my hydraulics to duel action, (hydraulics up and down) since the cylinder needs replacement anyway.
 

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Thanks mike01. Sounds like an easy solution!

Use that silver thing on the front of your hood to aim between the front bracket arms. Make sure you give yourself enough room to approach so that you straighten out relative to the deck. It helps to have a good sense of "straight" and "not straight." If it doesn't feel straight, backup and reorient. Eventually it will be second nature.

Also, make sure the tires are evenly spaced relative to the ramps, and, as you said, the guide rod.

I never think I'm aligned well enough for the PTO shaft to find that small opening in the autoconnector, but somehow it always does.
 

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"Auto-connect" is a misnomer

It should be "auto-connect-after-climbing-down-to-make-sure-the-two-pieces-are correctly-aligned", but that wouldn't work in the advertising.

I drive the tractor over the deck when re-attaching and stop just short of attachment and then climb down to make sure that the male and female parts are aligned (there is a lot of that in life, when you think about it). There is always a little bit of play in the female end (again!) and I can make sure that the alignment is correct before getting back in the driver's seat and gunning it to finish the job (metaphors all over the place).
 

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It should be "auto-connect-after-climbing-down-to-make-sure-the-two-pieces-are correctly-aligned", but that wouldn't work in the advertising.

I drive the tractor over the deck when re-attaching and stop just short of attachment and then climb down to make sure that the male and female parts are aligned (there is a lot of that in life, when you think about it). There is always a little bit of play in the female end (again!) and I can make sure that the alignment is correct before getting back in the driver's seat and gunning it to finish the job (metaphors all over the place).
I used to do that with x758, but for some reason the 1025r has always connected for me out of like 25 times doing it now.
 

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The only time stuff hasn't lined up properly for me was most recently, when I had the clogged orifice in the hydraulic line. (side note, did you check that, genesusie?) otherwise, just get a good straight run at the deck mfwd engaged, low gear, make sure both front tires contact at the same time, and it's peachy.
 

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I guess I have been lucky, I haven't had a problem either way. Connect and disconnect works​ as advertised.

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Anyone have any tips on getting the tractor in line with the deck so the pins on the tractor line up with the receiver slots on the deck?

When I did my first deck removal, it was a piece of cake to reverse the process and reattach. That was because the tractor only moved back and forth with no side to side movement. I immediately remounted the deck after un-mounting it, so the tractor only moved back and forth. Lately, when driving up to the unmounted deck, I have no problem aligning the left front tire with the 1/2" rod by the drive over bracket, but that does not necessarily mean the rear of the tractor is dead on perpendicular to the deck. If the rear of the tractor is an inch or 2 too far left or right, the pins on the tractor won't be aligned with the slots in the deck, making a retry necessary which means trial and error jockeying to get the tractor into correct alignment on the subsequent attempts. Took 3 attempts last night to get a connection.
Not sure how to help you "get straight" other than I think you'll get the hang of it. I can give you this tip, when disconnecting make sure you are on level ground. When you drop the deck to the ground the rear attachment latch should flip easy, if it doesn't you are not on level ground. Everything else wil come into place with practice


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It should be "auto-connect-after-climbing-down-to-make-sure-the-two-pieces-are correctly-aligned", but that wouldn't work in the advertising.

I drive the tractor over the deck when re-attaching and stop just short of attachment and then climb down to make sure that the male and female parts are aligned (there is a lot of that in life, when you think about it). There is always a little bit of play in the female end (again!) and I can make sure that the alignment is correct before getting back in the driver's seat and gunning it to finish the job (metaphors all over the place).
When I was a young man I used to read these stories in the back of a certain magazine. You didn't write them did you?:good2:
 

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When I was a young man I used to read these stories in the back of a certain magazine. You didn't write them did you?:good2:
Hahahaha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Anyone have any tips on getting the tractor in line with the deck so the pins on the tractor line up with the receiver slots on the deck?

When I did my first deck removal, it was a piece of cake to reverse the process and reattach. That was because the tractor only moved back and forth with no side to side movement. I immediately remounted the deck after un-mounting it, so the tractor only moved back and forth. Lately, when driving up to the unmounted deck, I have no problem aligning the left front tire with the 1/2" rod by the drive over bracket, but that does not necessarily mean the rear of the tractor is dead on perpendicular to the deck. If the rear of the tractor is an inch or 2 too far left or right, the pins on the tractor won't be aligned with the slots in the deck, making a retry necessary which means trial and error jockeying to get the tractor into correct alignment on the subsequent attempts. Took 3 attempts last night to get a connection.
I would suggest a few things that are often overlooked. You have to make sure the pto coupler is adjusted properly which may require some adjusting of the long bolt to allow the pto to hang slightly below the deck shaft when all is on level ground. Next, make sure the front hanger bracket on the deck is adjusted properly to where the rear locking latch bottoms out before the the hooks on the front of the tractor bottom out with the front hanger bracket. If these front hooks hit the front hanger bracket too soon you will always have problems making the connection. Last, you have to be square with the deck on the approach otherwise the back latches will be out of alignment. If your aren't sure about all of these adjustments, pull the tractor just far enough on the deck to let the front tires clear the deck and stop the tractor. Put it in neutral and gradually roll the tractor by hand and watch how these connecting points mesh and look for ways to correct the problems. When adjusted right, it will hook up right and easy, but always best if on a good level surface.
 

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Heh, heh... See my thread: "More 54D problems". I believe us guys with the smaller 54 d-e-c-k have a disadvantage when "hooking up", but I'll put my observations in anyway.:laugh:

Previously I noticed that there is precious little room on the deck for both front wheels unless the left one is rubbing the "guide bar" and squeeking along the deck. Not the case with the bigger deck I'll wager as one has a few more "steering inches" either way to correct alignment.

Since the second time I "missed it" I now get off the tractor, see if the rear latches are lined up and if not, it gets a "heave ho" with a small flat PRY BAR under the edge of the opposite side of the deck to slide it over. Can't go wrong if the front drawbar is just inside of the hooks to keep it centered. I don't have any more patience to "simply make another run at it". After all I'm going to have to get off again anyway to make sure the latches are engaged and then go take my Prozac and breathe deeply for a few minutes...

Small or larger decks: When engaging 4WD do it about 6-8 feet making a shallow turn BEFORE you reach the deck. This will insure that it is totally engaged. (Could use an PosiTraction on that front axle for these critical maneuvers.:laugh:)

It may say "automatic", but so was Fukushima...
 
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The only time stuff hasn't lined up properly for me was most recently, when I had the clogged orifice in the hydraulic line. (side note, did you check that, genesusie?) otherwise, just get a good straight run at the deck mfwd engaged, low gear, make sure both front tires contact at the same time, and it's peachy.
That was the first thing I verified as good. The problem was the hydraulic cylinder was binding up. It needs to be replaced. Isn't that the way, tractor is still fairly new but still out of warranty and expensive stuff breaks.
 
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