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I started the second day this year brush hogging. After about 4 hours the PTO quit. It has the independent hydraulic clutch for the PTO.
I stopped, checked the PTO lever had not disengaged (it had not). I decided to drive back to the barn. I was in a valley up hill the only way out. Half way up the hill the HI-Lo acted like it was slipping. In the past if it slipped on hill, it was from low fluid level. I backed down the hill to a level spot to check the fluid level. Backing down power steering quit. Then I tried the 3pt and it would not respond.
I checked the fluid level. It was OK. Removed the fill cap and the fluid smells burnt. Bad news :gizmo:.

The coolant gauge on the tractor never went past straight up, normal operating temp. I let it set an hour to see if the hydraulic fluid would cool and hydraulic return. They did not.

I know the transmission pump feeds the PTO clutch and Hi-Lo, then the main pump, which feeds PS and 3pt.

I am guessing the trans pump failed or an internal line broke. :dunno: Or maybe the filer bypass failed/stuck in bypass? :dunno:

I still have to get it towed to the barn before I can do anything. :flag_of_truce:
 

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My guess is 1 of the supply tubes for pto or hi-lo is leaking. Does FEL have ind control valve plumbed to tractor hyd system? If so disconnect the FEL valve pressure line to see if that will kick start hyd's.
 

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My guess is 1 of the supply tubes for pto or hi-lo is leaking. Does FEL have ind control valve plumbed to tractor hyd system? If so disconnect the FEL valve pressure line to see if that will kick start hyd's.
I have not been able to get back to recover or try with tractor having set over night to cool.

It does have an independent control valve for the loader. Correctly plumbed. Feeds right after the priority valve and returns to the filter cover.
I did check the two rear SVC were still in neutral, and try with PTO both engaged and disengaged. Also both in Hi and Lo.

I wonder if the suction screen somehow plugged? Or the suction tube broke/came off the trans pump? Or trans filter plugged, or bypass got stuck open.

Hi-Lo clutch may also have been danged when it started to slip :gizmo:

I want to try and recover it back to the barn today.
 

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boy this sucks big time-Zebra5. hope not a bad fix!
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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Discussion Starter #6
My guess is 1 of the supply tubes for pto or hi-lo is leaking. Does FEL have ind control valve plumbed to tractor hyd system? If so disconnect the FEL valve pressure line to see if that will kick start hyd's.
TxJim, how do you think the loader valve could affect the hydraulics? The loader was off and the joystick was locked.
Also my two rear SVCs have the quick return kit that runs a hose to the trans filter cover. A Tee was added to add the loader return.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yesterday, after setting out for two nights I was able to get back to the farm. No change in the hydraulics :banghead: still none work.

I enlisted the help of the neighbor to steer as I towed to barn with the 6415.

I went the steepest way up out of the valley. It was a shorter pull to the barn and less trees to steer around. The 2030 will not climb this hill. I have to go the longer, less steep hill.

The 6415 was in MFWD and it started to "power hop" or "wheel hop" about 1/2 way up the hill. Not bad or violent, and settled down as soon as it topped the hill. I was even able to switch off MFWD. :good2:

First we towed it to the neighbors and power washed the grime off. Then back to my barn. After we got it inside. I decided that was enough for the day. It was a hot day out. :bigbeer: I plan to buy the neighbor a 6 pack of his favorite drink :cheers:
 

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Today I went over and tried TxJim's suggestion to disconnect the hoses to the loader valve and cap the lines. I also capped the return from the SCVs that connects to the filter cover. Still no hydraulics :banghead:. I tried with PTO engaged, disengaged, in Hi and also in Lo. This was engine running, clutch out.

Next I pulled the trans filter. It looked fine, nothing covering the interior or exterior of the filter. Oil did not show any signs of water contamination.

I decided to drain the oil and check the sump screen. I got the oil draining, but could not budge the sump screen cap :banghead:. I tried a 1/2" ratchet (cap has 1/2" female square), then 25' 1/2" breaker bar, and finally my DeWalt 20v 1/2" drive impact. It did not budge. I had trouble keeping the breaker bar in, it wanted top slip out. I also worried about "stripping" the female square.

Looks like I need to split it and see what I find.

I removed the loader mount frames. then the foot boards. I found a broken 3/8" lock washer on a foot board mount bolt. No big deal I have plenty of lock washers. Then I found the clutch pedal return spring was gone. No idea when or where. Clutch works fine.

Next I found the brake line for the left brake was kinked. No bad enough to leak. I am not sure if it is kinked bad enough to stop flow. I'll probably have to replace it.

The shifters were hard to remove, the lines for the Hi-Lo and PTO were what were holding it. That means the lines had a good seal to the Hi-Lo and PTO valves.

Once the shifters were off, I saw the shift rail that has a spring was broken and the spring gone. Pretty common. May the spring caused my problems??? :dunno: I've heard no real need to repair it.

I have my splitting stand on and the front axle pivot blocked so it wont tilt. I am ready to split. I decided a good place to quit for the day.

Then split at the start of a new day. I have both transmission drain plugs out. Maybe they will stop dripping by the time I split it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Any one know if I will be able to see the sump screen once the tractor is split, from the inside?
 

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I think the sump screen will be difficult to see without removing ring gear & pinion but it's been many yrs since I looked down inside the trans case of a JD utility tractor. Have you picked up a big hammer & hit the cap that holds screen in a few good licks?? Also try blowing compressed air in hi-lo & pto supply tubes & listen for leaking air. Have you checked to be sure hyd filter relief valve isn't stuck open?
 

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You can't see the sump screen after a split. I am done trying to get it out.
 

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I was hoping for a good report on this...your in deep now.

hopefully a cheap fix after all the work your into already.
 

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Toady I went back to complete the split. I installed the two drain plugs, no need for them to drip on the floor, soon the remaining oil can come out at the split.:good2::good2:

Yesterday, I left one bolt in when I quit. I cleaned the area up, removed the bolt and started pushing a front tire, alternating side to side. As it begin to split, I watched the width top and bottom and adjusted the floor jack under the rear half and the splitting stand under the front half.15 minutes total it was split.:good2:

I found the piece that broke off the shift rail straight down. I found the spring from the broken shift rail in the rear half at the bottom right. I did NOT find anything else broken or that did not belong.:good2:

I pulled the PTO clutch assembly and set it aside.

Then I started on the front half. I checked all the metal tubes. All were in place, none loose, none broken, no cracks that I could see. Next I started taking it apart. I wanted to look at the transmission pump. I watched for broken gears, shafts, splines that might stripped. I could not find anything that did not look good. Next I took more apart so I could pull the Hi-Lo unit. MAYBE the front of it was broke off, or the splines stripped? :dunno:

The Hi-Lo unit came out and I could see no damage. :yahoo:

Here are some pictures, No idea what order they will post :nunu: :banghead:. So in some random order. Before the split. The wood wedges to keep the front half front tilting. My home built splitting stand. Starting to split. Split. Apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I think the sump screen will be difficult to see without removing ring gear & pinion but it's been many yrs since I looked down inside the trans case of a JD utility tractor. Have you picked up a big hammer & hit the cap that holds screen in a few good licks?? Also try blowing compressed air in hi-lo & pto supply tubes & listen for leaking air. Have you checked to be sure hyd filter relief valve isn't stuck open?
You're right, I can't see the sump screen at all with a trans case to clutch housing split. :banghead: I did the split today.

I did not hit the screen cap. I am also done trying.

To late to try the air trick, also I have no air at the farm barn. I wish I was doing the split at the home shop/barn.

The filter relief was the next thing I checked after the filter. The filter did not have anything stuck to it, inside or outside. Filter cover was real clean inside too.
 

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After splitting the tractor (4th time since purchased) I was still puzzled why I did not find something broken/obvious inside. :flag_of_truce:

The last thing I pulled was the Hi-Lo unit. The outer part of is splined and driven by the pressure plate, so even with the clutch pedal pushed you still have hydraulics.

The splines on the Hi-Lo unit looked fine. So maybe the splines in the pressure plate? :dunno:

I shined my trouble light and looked best I could. I can see splines. So now what? :dunno: :flag_of_truce:

Next I slid the Hi -Lo unit back in place. It should NOT turn unless the engine also turns. I could easily turn it. Something must be wrong with the pressure plate!

Looks like a I made the wrong split :banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead::banghead:. I doubt running with no hydraulic flow damaged anything, BUT since it's this far apart, I plan to take the Hi-Lo unit and PTO clutch to the dealer and have them take them apart (I do not have required special compressing tools) and check the clutch packs. I estimate I shut the tractor down with in 3 minutes of the PTO stopping and less than a minute after I felt the Hi-Lo begin to slip.

To EASILY do an engine to clutch housing split, I need the back half back on. Since I want to have the Hi-Lo and PTO clutch checked and still have to buy gaskets, packing and O-rings, I put the halves together empty.

Then I did an engine to clutch housing split. So if this counts as another split, I am up to FIVE :laugh: I did not have a pickle fork :flag_of_truce:at the farm (I have one at home) so I was just able to get it far enough apart to unbolt the pressure plate and pull it out from the side.

The center of the pressure plate has a disc with splines to drive the Hi-Lo outer case, springs sandwiched around the perimeter. I can easily turn this center section by hand.

Now I have to start making a parts list and order them. Then put it back together :greentractorride:
 

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I think I have read all of this thread, but maybe not. Did you check the pump drive to make sure the coupling isn't broken or stripped? I don't recall you saying whether there was any pressure or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I think I have read all of this thread, but maybe not. Did you check the pump drive to make sure the coupling isn't broken or stripped? I don't recall you saying whether there was any pressure or not.
One of the first things I looked at when I shut the tractor off.

First thing to quit was the PTO (hydraulic clutch). Second was HI-LO started to slip. Third and Forth was PS and 3pt.

The transmission pump supports the PTO clutch and HI-LO, then feeds the main pump which supports PS, SCVs, and 3pt.

I suspected a clogged trans filter and/or suction screen, stuck filter bypass, or failed internal line to or from the transmission pump.

The order of failure would not be from the front/main pump coupler failing.

After a "double split" I found the clutch cover (pressure plate) drive for the transmission pump failed.

See post #15
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I am looking for a deal on the clutch cover (pressure plate) AR100649. First place I looked was Green Farm Parts. NOTHING! :banghead:
 

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Try A&I parts. They are a john deere subsidiary so the parts should be good. I would try there first.
 
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