[csnyder750]

So I wanted to first thank everyone that helped me make my decision on the 1025r. I'm beyond happy with this decision and tractor. I pulled the mmm off and stored it on a pallet in the storage barn for winter. I was nervous about how this tractor would fair with winter but thinking winters in ohio have been pretty mild the past few years I thought it would let me ease into it.

Well I was wrong. We have more snow on the ground now than ever before in history some how. At my house I got a lot of wind which meant lots of drifts but not blanketed snow. It wouldn't have mattered. This tractor handled every single thing I could throw at it. I only have the bucket to plow with and later would like to find a good deal on a plow or possibly back blade to help with this situation. But the bucket did a great job and made shorter work of clearing off my many driveways.

I've put over 6 hours on the tractor so far so not a ton but more than I thought I would have by this time. My fiance thinks I find any reason to use it. Which might be true.

Some things I am not entirely crazy about are the speed at which the loader operates at. I feel like it's slow but manageable. Just would have liked to see this be a tad bit faster. I do love the float position as that's been great. I've been able to plow thru snow that my wheel horse with the blower on wouldn't be able to touch.

I'd like to get mirrors on it to see behind me along with reverse lighting. I'm planning on buying some magnetic mirrors to attach to the fel when I want them and take them off when I don't. And they can simply get knocked off if I were to hit something.

I have the r4s because I was impatient and didn't want to wait months for the versa turfs. So far the r4s have been much better than I expected. I read they weren't great in the snow and ice and I can say I've had the exact opposite experience. Granted I have loaded tires as well.

I'm going to be shopping for filters and fluids to have in stock to do my 50 hour changes soon. Not sure if there are good places to source these from?

If anyone is on the fence to getting one of these thinking it might be too small... Don't. It's plenty big enough and strong enough. Does it have it's limits. Of course. But I don't think I would have been any happier with a 2 series.

 

[Rykymus]

I've had mine about the same amount of time, and am loving it as well. I didn't take it out in the snow, but I did dig a 200ft trench to lay conduit for the fiber optic line feeding my house. (And then the snow came and I had to wait a week to finish the job!)

Best purchase I ever made.

 

[Mackford13]

I've got 274 hours on mine & have loved every minute of it. It is really amazing what these little machines can do. Last summer I dug out half a hill side & widened my driveway out. This is one purchase I've never regretted pulling the trigger on. In regards to getting filters or service kits, I would suggest Green Parts Store .com. Great site & if you use Tim's code TTWT you'll get free shipping.

 

[Sundancer268]

The JD Dealer was actually cheaper than the local Car Parts Stores. Green Parts Store with free shipping would probably be even better.

 

[csnyder750]

Thanks guys. I'm literally amazed at what this little tractor can do. I say little but I'm 6'5" tall and heavier than the average guy too and I fit pretty well on the tractor. It doesn't seem too small ever.

I love it's maneuverability. The only thing I wish was better was faster loader controls. It's not a show killer but they do seem to be slow and noticeable when using the bucket to scoop and drop snow. If I had a plow or blower it might not be as noticeable.

When I'm plowing I've got 4 to 5 foot piles of snow everywhere and I'll raise it up and dump it on top and it seems to take a while to get that to happen. And then I have to throw it in float down as I back up so it can be close to the ground by the time I'm backed up and ready for the next push.

But really outside of that I can't tell you how happy this tractor has made me. I made the decision when we got hit with the 2nd round of snow to make a pass or two back to the animal barn which was easily a foot or more deep with part of it plowed before so it was crusty and tough and this tractor not only went right thru it like butter but then moved the pile at the end a bit when I got there too.

I'm excited to see how it does mowing. I've already used the forks way more than even I thought I would. I bought some hooks to add to the top of the bucket as I've had a need for them but just haven't had the time to do it yet.

Another thing I'd like to get is a 3 pt hitch with a 2" receiver option so I can move my trailer around. I also would like to have the same option for the bucket end. I saw a clamp on style for that, that I think I'm going to go with so I don't have it on permanently.

 

[DMagers]

I just ordered the John Deere (M806418) engine oil filter last night on Amazon You might compare prices. Since I don't have the code for a break on shioing and handlint the Green store was beyond my means.

BTW, how do you guys get the TTWT code?

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

I just ordered the engine oil filter last night on Amazon You might compare prices. Since I don't have the code for a break on shioing and handlint the Green store was beyond my means.

BTW, how do you guys get the TTWT code?

TTWT is the code.

 

[DMagers]

Duuuhhhh, , thanks Mark

 

[SulleyBear]

It's always nice to know people are happy with their purchases. You will find over time more efficient ways to complete tasks and the benefits of dedicated, purpose built implements like the snow plow. When you move snow with the FEL, you have to lift, then dump, then curl and then lower the FEL with each bucket full. That takes a lot of time to complete each cycle. When plowing snow, you can constantly be moving snow and actually move the SCV controls much less to complete the same tasks when you are pushing snow, instead of lifting and moving every bucket load.

You will also find as the conditions change, the traction changes dramatically. Pushing snow when its below 26 degrees is entirely different than doing the same when its 32 to 34 degrees and snowing wet heavy snow. To accommodate the different conditions and maintain the same efficiency, it takes adjusting ballast amounts and adjusting surface contact with the plow, etc. It takes time to learn.

I always tell new owners don't make any judgements about the implement and machine with limited use experience. It's unfortunate when a new owner happens to experience tough conditions early in their ownership experience as they often judge the machine based upon those conditions. When we had the wet heavy snows of Christmas, several people were insisting their machines weren't up to the snow clearing tasks. Yet, when the ground froze and temps dropped, suddenly, it was like they were on a different machine, because the conditions do have that much of an impact on the machines performance.

There will be times when the steering will be difficult, other times, it will be a breeze. There will be times when the traction is so good you wonder what everyone was talking about. Just wait, you will find out eventually. Some conditions will want significant rear ballast, others will demand much less. Its a good idea to have adjustable rear ballast methods, whether its bags of sand, snow melt, suitcase weights, whatever, as long as you can make adjustments to improve the result.

Congratulations on your purchase. Start looking at the different front plow options as the time to buy them is the next 120 days when the owners don't want to store them or they need to raise some cash. The mounting methods are different as are the operational approaches, it all depends upon what you want.

One last thing, ALWAYS purchase high quality fluid filters. The few dollars you can save on less expensive filters can be because they lack a bypass method or some other important detail. You will likely change fluids once or twice a year, so the savings isn't going to be significant for less expensive filters. Plus many dealer have Fluid and Filter sales in February and August where the sale proces makes their products a very good deal. Check with your dealers parts department.

 

[dixie460]

Another thing I'd like to get is a 3 pt hitch with a 2" receiver option so I can move my trailer around.

You may or may not be aware of this but your 3 point hitch (or the 3 point on any tractor for that matter) does NOT apply downforce. So be careful towing a trailer on the 3 point because any shift in weight on the trailer can lift the 3 point and that might possibly ruin your day and/or your equipment.

 

[csnyder750]

I just ordered the John Deere (M806418) engine oil filter last night on Amazon You might compare prices. Since I don't have the code for a break on shioing and handlint the Green store was beyond my means.

BTW, how do you guys get the TTWT code?

I have actually looked on Amazon and see they offer a JD filter kit. I just haven't taken the time to see if its all the filters I need and if the price is better or worse than a place like the green store or at a dealer.

 

[csnyder750]

It's always nice to know people are happy with their purchases. You will find over time more efficient ways to complete tasks and the benefits of dedicated, purpose built implements like the snow plow. When you move snow with the FEL, you have to lift, then dump, then curl and then lower the FEL with each bucket full. That takes a lot of time to complete each cycle. When plowing snow, you can constantly be moving snow and actually move the SCV controls much less to complete the same tasks when you are pushing snow, instead of lifting and moving every bucket load.

You will also find as the conditions change, the traction changes dramatically. Pushing snow when its below 26 degrees is entirely different than doing the same when its 32 to 34 degrees and snowing wet heavy snow. To accommodate the different conditions and maintain the same efficiency, it takes adjusting ballast amounts and adjusting surface contact with the plow, etc. It takes time to learn.

I always tell new owners don't make any judgements about the implement and machine with limited use experience. It's unfortunate when a new owner happens to experience tough conditions early in their ownership experience as they often judge the machine based upon those conditions. When we had the wet heavy snows of Christmas, several people were insisting their machines weren't up to the snow clearing tasks. Yet, when the ground froze and temps dropped, suddenly, it was like they were on a different machine, because the conditions do have that much of an impact on the machines performance.

There will be times when the steering will be difficult, other times, it will be a breeze. There will be times when the traction is so good you wonder what everyone was talking about. Just wait, you will find out eventually. Some conditions will want significant rear ballast, others will demand much less. Its a good idea to have adjustable rear ballast methods, whether its bags of sand, snow melt, suitcase weights, whatever, as long as you can make adjustments to improve the result.

Congratulations on your purchase. Start looking at the different front plow options as the time to buy them is the next 120 days when the owners don't want to store them or they need to raise some cash. The mounting methods are different as are the operational approaches, it all depends upon what you want.

One last thing, ALWAYS purchase high quality fluid filters. The few dollars you can save on less expensive filters can be because they lack a bypass method or some other important detail. You will likely change fluids once or twice a year, so the savings isn't going to be significant for less expensive filters. Plus many dealer have Fluid and Filter sales in February and August where the sale proces makes their products a very good deal. Check with your dealers parts department.

So I have a question about rear ballast. I know there are several methods of thought here but when I talked to the dealer the day I bought it about ballast I got an answer that I didn't expect to hear. He told me that I didn't need additional ballast. I inquired about a ballast box and was considering making my own but he said with the tires being loaded I dont need additional ballast. I wasn't sure what to think about this. I have been lifting a bunch of heavy snow and didn't once think I was at a risk of tipping. I know snow isn't that heavy, but I am not sure I will ever need rear ballast for the things I will be lifting. I had the forks on with 7 totes piled on them. They were heavy and filled with oils and such. At first I was like I dont know if I will be able to lift this, but it didn't even struggle nor did I feel worried about it tipping.

I just don't know what I would need rear ballast for at this point.

I do want to purchase a plow as I would be happy to have some side tilt to help with controlling the snow. But I was also watching TTWT showing the edge tamers and thinking these are something I need to buy for various reasons. with that I dont know if I need to invest the 1000 dollars or so into a plow. I do keep any eye out for a deal on one.

As far as filters go, I dont see the advantage to buying cheap filters either. especially right now with things under warranty. I dont need a reason for JD to say nah we aren't covering this because you bought a 2 dollar filter instead of an 8 dollar one.

 

[csnyder750]

You may or may not be aware of this but your 3 point hitch (or the 3 point on any tractor for that matter) does NOT apply downforce. So be careful towing a trailer on the 3 point because any shift in weight on the trailer can lift the 3 point and that might possibly ruin your day and/or your equipment.

Basically i wouldn't be towing the trailer loaded or with anything of substance. I basically want something to move my small trailer around. For instance right now I have a barn to store the trailer in but the barn is full of stuff from the previous owner who i have agreed to let him keep his things in there until winter is over. Meanwhile my trailer has had to sit outside. Not a big deal except I needed it a few times recently and had to get it from the back 40. I dont have a truck to haul it with, just an SUV and when I hooked the suv up to it, I immediately got stuck and had to use the tractor to pull the suv and trailer out. I would like to be able to slap that receiver on and hook up and pull the trailer up to the main drive, or eventually pull it out of the barn and put it back in the barn. I have been thinking of getting a reciever for the front bucket. I see they sell a clamp on one that would do me very well I think. recently I moved the trailer by hooking the chains to the FEL and moving it with that. It went well and I forgot how nice it is to move a trailer like that.

 

[Levi]

I have to throw it in float down as I back up so it can be close to the ground by the time I'm backed up and ready for the next push.

On my 1026 it seems like the float position makes the FEL go down slower. Might just be my imagination but every time I use float it seems like it so much that I'll take it out of float and use the down position. BTW, you can make it go down without being at a standstill. You can move the tractor while moving the joystick.

 

[Mackford13]

I have actually looked on Amazon and see they offer a JD filter kit. I just haven't taken the time to see if its all the filters I need and if the price is better or worse than a place like the green store or at a dealer.

Here is the part no on green parts store 1025R200-MAINT2. I'm assuming you have a newer 1025r with the new air filter mounting. It's 176.70. It includes all your filters even the the little one under floor board. It also gives you all the the correct fluids & amounts you will need. Don't forget Tim's code for free shipping TTWT.

 

[Tomfive]

You will need rear ballast at some time or other, Here is a sticky article on why:
What is "Rear Ballast"? And why do you need it?

In regard to filters, I agree that buying cheap filters is not wise. But buying quality filters at lower prices is not a bad thing. I also don't think of being in warranty as the reason to buy quality filters, I would do it all the time to extend the life of the machine.

Engine RPM determines the speed of the hydraulics to some extent. The faster the engine speed, the faster the hydraulic pump goes and increases the GPM. I do believe there may be some restrictor orifices in the loader lines which will it slow down and probably limit max speed at max RPM. Try running your engine faster ans see if you loader speeds up.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[Jimmy Walker]

He told me that I didn't need additional ballast.

He lied to you. The manual calls for fluid in tires and 3 point weight or iron wheel weights and 3 point weight. You always need something on the back to safely use the FEL. When dropping off my backhoe, I need both hands to just steer the tractor when moving to my next tool.

 

[csnyder750]

On my 1026 it seems like the float position makes the FEL go down slower. Might just be my imagination but every time I use float it seems like it so much that I'll take it out of float and use the down position. BTW, you can make it go down without being at a standstill. You can move the tractor while moving the joystick.

You are correct, float position the loader definitely goes down slower than if you were to push the joystick down. I find that when I'm driving backwards and turning to look behind me I'd rather not be dealing with pushing the joystick down, controlling the wheel and looking behind me. I also find if I push it to float as I'm backing up by the time I get back to my start position it's almost down or I can guage how long it will take to get down type thing and it's just one less then I have to worry about as I'm backing up.

 

[csnyder750]

Here is the part no on green parts store 1025R200-MAINT2. I'm assuming you have a newer 1025r with the new air filter mounting. It's 176.70. It includes all your filters even the the little one under floor board. It also gives you all the the correct fluids & amounts you will need. Don't forget Tim's code for free shipping TTWT.

Awesome thank you so much. I'll be taking a look at this soon.

 

[csnyder750]

You will need rear ballast at some time or other, Here is a sticky article on why:
What is "Rear Ballast"? And why do you need it?

In regard to filters, I agree that buying cheap filters is not wise. But buying quality filters at lower prices is not a bad thing. I also don't think of being in warranty as the reason to buy quality filters, I would do it all the time to extend the life of the machine.

Engine RPM determines the speed of the hydraulics to some extent. The faster the engine speed, the faster the hydraulic pump goes and increases the GPM. I do believe there may be some restrictor orifices in the loader lines which will it slow down and probably limit max speed at max RPM. Try running your engine faster ans see if you loader speeds up.

Just my 2 cents.

It does speed up with more rpms. When I start off I'm low rpm and then remember I need to raise the rpms on this machine as opposed to some of the old tractors I'm used to running.