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Owner of a 2019 2025r here. I'm beyond frustrated with that stupid hidden grease zerk on the drive shaft, and the fact that JD even has it there....and only have us maybe a 3/4" hole to try to service it. I'm well over $100 in various grease gun tips and none of them seem to work. I've tried a solid shaft on the gun...a standard / long lock and lube tip. A needle tip. Nothing is working. Ive successfully greased it one time, with the needle adapter but not I cant get on it at all. There's a mess of grease up there. No mater how I rotate the shaft, the zerk never really aligns perfectly with the hole, and of course JD ran some steel line literally right over the hole. That access hole should be 2 inches in size...or the zerk shouldn't even be there. Is anyone else as frustrated as I am with that dumb thing? Any suggestions. Think I can bend that steel line?...maybe that would help.
 

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I go behind the hole where a couple of lines run up and in and use the hole for a viewing port. For me it’s easy to get the tip in there, I just use a regular tip, but it can be hard to lock it on. You can also grab a hold of the fly wheel and spin it to line it up. It takes me anywhere from 2 minutes to 10 minutes to accomplish this.
 
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At 200 hours, I had to replace the PTO button. They have to remove the upper instrument panel for that. Think they got at the Ujoint by removing the lower instrument panel. They removed the whole shaft, which I think is needed to get a regular grease gun onto those zerks (both front and rear), as the Ujoint needs to be bent to yield enough room.

Not dry now. Should be good until I get ready for another tractor, maybe a Kubota B since JD has eliminated turning brakes on the 2s. Kubotas do not seem to have Ujoint issues.
 

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Ralph has a Gen I 2025 r. You can’t remove the lower panel to get at the difficult zerk on a Gen II 2025r.
 

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JD4600 loader/backhoe, JD2210 loader mower, JD332 mower,
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I have the same issue with my 2210. I was able to grease the front zerk using a little pointy needle (not the sharp surgical kind) thing that I found online. But for the rear fitting, I can't even see it. The machine has 310 hours, so I'm not hugely worried, but it still needs attention.
 

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I had this issue on my 1025R. Poor design and PITA? Yes. But I never found it impossible. Might have been the old-school solI’d shaft grease tube I had kicking around. I haven’t even looked at greasing the front driveshaft union on my 2032R. However I just looked at the instructions on the TractorPlus app and this doesn’t seem to be an issue for the 2032/2038 tractors is it?
 

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Notorious issue with the 2305 and front zerk.......tried many times with different tips and can only hope some grease is getting in, soon next attempt will be dropping driveline.😬
 

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Owner of a 2019 2025r here. I'm beyond frustrated with that stupid hidden grease zerk on the drive shaft, and the fact that JD even has it there....and only have us maybe a 3/4" hole to try to service it. I'm well over $100 in various grease gun tips and none of them seem to work. I've tried a solid shaft on the gun...a standard / long lock and lube tip. A needle tip. Nothing is working. Ive successfully greased it one time, with the needle adapter but not I cant get on it at all. There's a mess of grease up there. No mater how I rotate the shaft, the zerk never really aligns perfectly with the hole, and of course JD ran some steel line literally right over the hole. That access hole should be 2 inches in size...or the zerk shouldn't even be there. Is anyone else as frustrated as I am with that dumb thing? Any suggestions. Think I can bend that steel line?...maybe that would help.
I know this is an old thread but is there any way to get to this hidden fitting using ramps? Not that the ramps would make things easier other than ease of getting under there.
 

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I used one of these. I have this one and one with a larger start size than 1/2”. The advantage was, I could enlarge the hole and not worry about break thru binding and also, the flat end not hitting the universal coupling and causing damage. I made the hole way bigger. I remember, I made it larger than an inch.

Circuit component Rectangle Electric blue Electronic component Font

Next, I ordered one of these. It’s the lock and lube XL (extra long). Now I can actually reach the zerk thru the larger hole. This tip also came in handy on other zerks, eg; the MMM.
 

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I know this is an old thread but is there any way to get to this hidden fitting using ramps? Not that the ramps would make things easier other than ease of getting under there.
I use some home made ramps with my 1025r. I layered a couple of 2x10 boards with 45 degree cuts. I drive the front wheels up on the ramp. That way I can get my whole body underneath and I use a rigid tube grease gun. The hardest part is lining up the zerk with the hole.
 

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I took a standard tip to the bench grinder and tapered it down. Took a lot of metal off but it fits in there and greases properly. Retarded hole
 

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2019 2025R with Loader, Backhoe, 54D Mower, Forks, Rear Snowblower, Box Blade, Landscape Rake, QH
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I used one of these. I have this one and one with a larger start size than 1/2”. The advantage was, I could enlarge the hole and not worry about break thru binding and also, the flat end not hitting the universal coupling and causing damage. I made the hole way bigger. I remember, I made it larger than an inch.

View attachment 804565
Next, I ordered one of these. It’s the lock and lube XL (extra long). Now I can actually reach the zerk thru the larger hole. This tip also came in handy on other zerks, eg; the MMM.
Same solution for me. Each tractor seems assembled just a little differently. It seems unlikely but how else to explain it?

Anecdotal evidence suggests that some people's machines (same model/year) allow it to get done using standard tools and techniques, but some just cannot. I couldn't do it; I had to make the hole larger and get the LnL XL (Needle attached to XL works well too). Problems solved.
 
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Firemark, Do you remember where you purchased the step bit and what product number?
I ordered it online. I will see if I can dig them up and find an item #. I do remember that they weren’t overly expensive.
 

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Each tractor seems assembled just a little differently. It seems unlikely but how else to explain it?

Anecdotal evidence suggests that some people's machines (same model/year) allow it to get done using standard tools and techniques, but some just cannot.
I'm glad you mentioned that. Every time this subject comes up I worry that maybe I am missing a zerk when greasing under there because I can get to mine easily through the little hole with a standard coupler on a 8" tube. I wonder if the alignment of the zerk might be off for some and turning it one way or another could alleviate the struggle. Of course, that would be harder to do through the hole than getting the coupler on the zerk. Or, maybe I just have the Unicorn.

At any rate, I can see how a slight change it the way mine is aligned would sure make things difficult and enlarging the hole would be my choice too if needed. So, just to be clear, there are four zerks total on four u-joints for the two driveshafts and I am not skipping any, right?
 
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I'm glad you mentioned that. Every time this subject comes up I worry that maybe I am missing a zerk when greasing under there because I can get to mine easily through the little hole with a standard coupler on a 8" tube. I wonder if the alignment of the zerk might be off for some and turning it one way or another could alleviate the struggle. Of course, that would be harder to do through the hole than getting the coupler on the zerk. Or, maybe I just have the Unicorn.

At any rate, I can see how a slight change it the way mine is aligned would sure make things difficult and enlarging the hole would be my choice too if needed. So, just to be clear, there are four zerks total on four u-joints for the two driveshafts and I am not skipping any, right?
Believe me, I tried everything before breaking out the cutting tools! It was just a no-go.

Right on for our Gen 2 2025s - counting the mid PTO shaft and it's zerks separately.
 

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To keep this info in one place, I'll add some feedback for 2020 2025R's. On my 2020 2025R, it looks like Deere made it a little easier by opening up the access hole.

Previously, I tried the regular grease tips, then the LockNLube standard, and then a needle tip. None worked well. I later read the comments from the above posters, so I then tried the LockNLube XL and was prepared to do some frame surgery, but to my pleasant surprise, there was adequate clearance and the XL went on without much issue and the grease pumped in correctly.

I am guessing that at some point Deere turned the access hole into an open slot and that seemed to work. The pictures below shows the "factory" frame and the LockNLube XL in place. Of course, hand manipulation of the flywheel is still needed to get the angle correct.

Automotive tire Wood Gas Tradesman Bumper
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wheel Bumper Automotive wheel system
 
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