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I have damaged the black mesh on my 2320 enough so I decided to follow several of your leads and make a grill guard. I need to finish the attachments and paint it up then will post a final picture :good2:

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Looking good:bigthumb:
 

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Ditto. Looks nice, well done.

Did you weld the angle, to the OEM guard? Gives me ideas about doing a removable setup, similar to the removable radiator screen.
 

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Too bad no company took the grill guard idea and ran with it!:unknown:
 

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:bigthumb::bigthumb:
 

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Thanks guys. SRG I am working on making it removable vs. welding it to the guard. The side vertical plates of the OEM guard prevent a through bolt on the bottom portion. I am working on tapping a hole for a 5/16 bolt that I can screw from the inside into the vertical plate. Not a lot of room but I think it will work. I have zero experience with tapping a hole so I am learning. The middle horizontal bar of the OEM prevents a full rotation of the tap handle so I am figuring that out. I really don’t want to weld it on. One way or another I will attach it :lol:
 
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Thanks guys. SRG I am working on making it removable vs. welding it to the guard. The side vertical plates of the OEM guard prevent a through bolt on the bottom portion. I am working on tapping a hole for a 5/16 bolt that I can screw from the inside into the vertical plate. Not a lot of room but I think it will work. I have zero experience with tapping a hole so I am learning. The middle horizontal bar of the OEM prevents a full rotation of the tap handle so I am figuring that out. I really don’t want to weld it on. One way or another I will attach it :lol:
Instead of a bolt, use a large countersunk screw... That will negate the interference between the frame and the added bolt head.... and it is still removeable....

Sincerely
 

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Thanks guys. SRG I am working on making it removable vs. welding it to the guard. The side vertical plates of the OEM guard prevent a through bolt on the bottom portion. I am working on tapping a hole for a 5/16 bolt that I can screw from the inside into the vertical plate. Not a lot of room but I think it will work. I have zero experience with tapping a hole so I am learning. The middle horizontal bar of the OEM prevents a full rotation of the tap handle so I am figuring that out. I really don’t want to weld it on. One way or another I will attach it :lol:

If you can put one bolt on either side up high and another bolt on either side, closer to the middle cross bar of the OEM guard, that grill would be rock solid, and wouldn't go anywhere. EDIT; Or how about drilling down, where the OEM grill guard is bent outward?
Just drill all the way through, dont mess with tapping. If you tap it, then you have to have the right length bolts so everything tightens up right, or you will have to stack it out with washers to take up the extra length, if the bolts are too long. Plus those threads could get stripped over time, and then you're back at square one.
I see that it pivots now. How much space do you have between both pieces, where it pivots?

You might even be able to get away with using universal clevis pins and have the setup be quick detach.
Something similar to these....
Amazon.com: Hard-to-Find Fastener 014973472771 Universal Clevis Pins, 1/4 x 1, Piece-10: Home Improvement
 
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:bigthumb::bigthumb:

Nice Job
 
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I'm jealous. :thumbup1gif:
 

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Looks great
 

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Discussion Starter #13
HomesteadtJle and SRG. Good points. I originally thought about a countersunk screw but thought I could tap. I think I need to relook at it now that you mention it. There just isn’t room to swing the tap with the middle horizontal bar. I’ll revisit today and let you know. Thanks for the suggestions.
 
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HomesteadtJle and SRG. Good points. I originally thought about a countersunk screw but thought I could tap. I think I need to relook at it now that you mention it. There just isn’t room to swing the tap with the middle horizontal bar. I’ll revisit today and let you know. Thanks for the suggestions.
If You have room for a drill, use a drill tap. They drill the hole and tap the threads in one shot. The grill guard is a bit beyond the recommended thickness but you should be able to get away with it. Use lubricant and set the clutch on your drill as low as you can and it still will tap, to protect it from snapping the bit while tapping. Greenlee DTAP5/16-18 Combination Drill and Tap Bit, 5/16-18NC - Countersink Bits - Amazon.com
 

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HomesteadtJle and SRG. Good points. I originally thought about a countersunk screw but thought I could tap. I think I need to relook at it now that you mention it. There just isn’t room to swing the tap with the middle horizontal bar. I’ll revisit today and let you know. Thanks for the suggestions.

Are you tapping through the entire upright or are you using a bottom end tap. If you are tapping all the way through then start the tap on the other side of the upright
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Big, thanks here is where my ignorance shows. I thought I could only tap one direction. In order to have clearance I need a bolt to go from the inside of the upright. While I could tap from the outside the thread direction would be the reverse of how I need to insert it. As the OEM grill pivots forward, I have two removable attachment methods that I see. One, as mentioned by HomesteadJoe is to countersink from the outside of the upright so I can insert a bolt so it is flush and allows clearance when closed. The second is to tap from the inside with the bolt not extending through the hole.

You guys have given me a bunch to look at including the drill/tap combo. I appreciate all the comments and will let you know how it goes.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
SRG I forgot to respond to one good point you made about putting a second bolt right by the horizontal cross bar. I was worried about doing that as in the first picture you can see I cut the side of the channel steel. I did this as the grill has a bend and this allowed by to follow the contour with the channel and expanded metal. I was worried about putting a bolt right there as it would be right next to the cut. You raise a good point as I could now run a weld bead in that cut as its now bent as needed. In addition, the expanded metal is welded in so many places I don't think it can flex.
 
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Big, thanks here is where my ignorance shows. I thought I could only tap one direction. In order to have clearance I need a bolt to go from the inside of the upright. While I could tap from the outside the thread direction would be the reverse of how I need to insert it. As the OEM grill pivots forward, I have two removable attachment methods that I see. One, as mentioned by HomesteadJoe is to countersink from the outside of the upright so I can insert a bolt so it is flush and allows clearance when closed. The second is to tap from the inside with the bolt not extending through the hole.

You guys have given me a bunch to look at including the drill/tap combo. I appreciate all the comments and will let you know how it goes.
It will work the same no matter which side yo start the tap. Just like nuts for bolts can be threaded on from either side.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Thanks Big, I felt like a Muppet for asking :banghead::banghead:, but I see what you mean.
 
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It will work the same no matter which side yo start the tap. Just like nuts for bolts can be threaded on from either side.
Ahh yeah you right
 
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