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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This is not occurring on my 1025R, but it is on a 1025R. (The owner of the land I hunt has a 1025 as well.)

I got the shift to neutral error and in messing around with it, after plugging and unplugging the bypass switch a lot of times it then worked like nothing was ever wrong. Multiple start up’s and shut downs with no hint of the error returning.

I then parked the tractor for a few weeks and it wasn’t used.

I returned after that several weeks and it had the shift-to-neutral error again.

Unplugging/replugging the connector about 15 times (roughly) solved it and as before, multiple shut downs and startups with not a blip.

Bad switch? Contact point corrosion? Any suggestions...?
 

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Though it could be corrosion/contact point, typically it has been the switch. The weather-pak connector does a good job of sealing out moisture.

Unplug the connector and test for continuity across the switch. You should only have continuity with the range selection lever in neutral. When either in high range or low range there should be no continuity across the switch. Sometimes you have to fiddle with it to get it to act up if it's a partially sticking switch. Even as much as leaving it sit for a few days in gear, then test for continuity as you shift it into neutral.

Also you can unplug the connector, and put a jumper wire across the connectors terminals. It should never tell you shift to neutral as it is emulating a closed switch. You can use a small piece of wire or even a paperclip if it will fit in there. With a jumper in there, shake it around a little bit to emulate bouncing, jiggling, etc. That can help test for a bad wire joint at the connector.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yep. Jumpered the switch and it works just fine.

I’ve seen hints here and there that a loose lever can cause this. Does that mean the actual selector lever itself may be loose?
 
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Possible, but doubt it has any bearing. The lever attaches to a shaft that internally does the changing of gears. In amongst that is where the switch rides (internally). If the lever were loose, you may feel 'slop' when changing gears, but you still should feel the shaft pushing the fork and engaging gears, if the gears are actually being engaged. If you get it started, select hi or low range and the tractor moves, the gears are engaging, whether or not there is slop in the lever. You can do that using your jumper wire (takes the switch out of the equation). And when I say slop, I mean slop between the lever and the shaft.

I don't believe we've ever heard of anyone reporting a problem with the internal shaft itself. There has been a small number reporting a bad switch though.

The plunger end of the switch is actually submerged in the trans oil. To change it requires losing either a quart or less of fluid, or draining the entire trans oil out. Others have done the 'quick change' and reported only losing a quart at most, but you have to have everything ready and be fast (sounds worse than it is). You need a quart or 2 of oil available (minimum), a new switch, a new o-ring for the switch, and a deep well metric socket. Don't remember the size... maybe 18mm but I wanna say more like 22mm or 23mm. Member @etcallhome mentioned the size in a couple different posts about changing it. I believe @Zebrafive also was involved in changing one.
 

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Hi All
I am having the same problem with my 1025R, its been on going for the last year or so. I will get the error message I jiggle the range selector a couple of timed and the error message goes away, it's happens a couple of times in a row. Then it ok for a couple of months then it will do it again. It happened the other day again three times since then the tractor has been ok I have started the tractor about 10 times since all ok. I have not tried disconnecting the switch the problem usually occurs with the MMM attached (which is most of the time) but not always, like recently.
Regards John
 

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John, you may want to get the deck off and investigate the switch. Replace it while you can when the deck is off. Others have reported that it's a real pain to get to with the deck on, and you can't start the tractor to get the deck off.

But, I was just looking at the tech manual. It looks like there is a way to jump the wires in a pinch to get the tractor to start. Not that it would neccesarily be easy, but you could probably jump the wires in the back of the dash.
 
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For me , deck was on , PIA to get the wires loose just below the transmission filter. Happened at the worse time and tractor parked in the worse place. For around $50 a qt or 2 of low viscosity fluid. Take the deck off, and change the switch or you will be jacking up the tractor, trying to get under the tractor , then try to get to the wiring to unplug the connection, put the jumper wire on and then climb out from under the tractor and see if tractor will start.
If so then remove the mower deck, and then change out the switch.

or you can wait and do this in the dead of winter and then it would really be pain.
 
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Gene, do you know the socket size for the switch?
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Possible, but doubt it has any bearing. The lever attaches to a shaft that internally does the changing of gears. In amongst that is where the switch rides (internally). If the lever were loose, you may feel 'slop' when changing gears, but you still should feel the shaft pushing the fork and engaging gears, if the gears are actually being engaged. If you get it started, select hi or low range and the tractor moves, the gears are engaging, whether or not there is slop in the lever. You can do that using your jumper wire (takes the switch out of the equation). And when I say slop, I mean slop between the lever and the shaft.

I don't believe we've ever heard of anyone reporting a problem with the internal shaft itself. There has been a small number reporting a bad switch though.

The plunger end of the switch is actually submerged in the trans oil. To change it requires losing either a quart or less of fluid, or draining the entire trans oil out. Others have done the 'quick change' and reported only losing a quart at most, but you have to have everything ready and be fast (sounds worse than it is). You need a quart or 2 of oil available (minimum), a new switch, a new o-ring for the switch, and a deep well metric socket. Don't remember the size... maybe 18mm but I wanna say more like 22mm or 23mm. Member @etcallhome mentioned the size in a couple different posts about changing it. I believe @Zebrafive also was involved in changing one.
Well....seeing this info and given that this is not my tractor, I'm not digging this deep into someone else's tractor.

The thing that is unfortunate is that it was in with the dealer for regular service and this wasn't seen or known. It came back and sat (landowner lives elsewhere, although the tractor is locked inside a building for storage, so it's not out in the weather). Those of us who hunt there use it periodically for trail/access road maintenance and general property maintenance, and that's how I discovered the issue.

The good news is that I have the MMM off (it was on initially, and man is that switch a pain to get to with the MMM on!) and the tractor is in its shed out of the elements. If it does completely refuse to start, although a jumper would solve that in a pinch, at least it's not exposed to the elements while we'd wait for a dealer pick-up.

What's kind of odd is that it'll be hard headed until I get it to start. Then I can shut it off and turn it on all day long with zero issues. None.

Wait a couple weeks or so, come back...."shift-to-neutral" is back and we start over again.
 
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Gene, do you know the socket size for the switch?
Found this post a few minutes ago..you posted 22mm. and I'm thinking that was the size.


 
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Actually just found my post from changing neutral switch YEP 22mm

 
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