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Discussion Starter #1
So I’m thinking of getting a new trailer to haul my son’s cub and wagon to shows. Total weight is about 2600 pounds or so of equipment.



My truck is rated to two 5700 pounds. And after towing 2500 pounds I think it would do it but not be really happy about it. Fortunately I’m looking at towing things less than 20 miles and on fairly flat ground.
Move got the 4.2L with a 3.55 rear. Looks like GCVW is 10000 pounds.



No I’m at the mindset that if I’m going to buy something I want to buy it once and be done. I found this trailer which would do just about all of my towing needs.

2019 Sure-Trac 7x20 Tube Top Utility Landscape Trailer 9900# GVW * PROFESSIONAL LANDSCAPE SERIES * HD GATE UPGRADE | Best Choice Trailers Harrisburg Area



My question is since the trailer has a GVW of 9900 pounds and my truck is only rated at 5700 pounds as long as I keep it loaded to under 5700 pounds am I ok from a legal standpoint?

Thanks


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So I’m thinking of getting a new trailer to haul my son’s cub and wagon to shows. Total weight is about 2600 pounds or so of equipment.

My truck is rated to two 5700 pounds. And after towing 2500 pounds I think it would do it but not be really happy about it. Fortunately I’m looking at towing things less than 20 miles and on fairly flat ground.
Move got the 4.2L with a 3.55 rear. Looks like GCVW is 10000 pounds.

No I’m at the mindset that if I’m going to buy something I want to buy it once and be done. I found this trailer which would do just about all of my towing needs.


My question is since the trailer has a GVW of 9900 pounds and my truck is only rated at 5700 pounds as long as I keep it loaded to under 5700 pounds am I ok from a legal standpoint?

Thanks
Yes.

You’ll just have to watch your hitch weight - easy enough to do by moving the load a little forward or back.
 

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My question is since the trailer has a GVW of 9900 pounds and my truck is only rated at 5700 pounds as long as I keep it loaded to under 5700 pounds am I ok from a legal standpoint?
Sure. You just have to keep in mind that the trailer itself weighs 2530 lbs.

With your 5700 lbs towing capacity minus the 2530 lbs that the trailer weighs, you are limited to loading 3170 lbs of "stuff" on it when towing with your vehicle. You'd be fine if your 2600 lb number is accurate.
 

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So I’m thinking of getting a new trailer to haul my son’s cub and wagon to shows. Total weight is about 2600 pounds or so of equipment.



My truck is rated to two 5700 pounds. And after towing 2500 pounds I think it would do it but not be really happy about it. Fortunately I’m looking at towing things less than 20 miles and on fairly flat ground.
Move got the 4.2L with a 3.55 rear. Looks like GCVW is 10000 pounds.



No I’m at the mindset that if I’m going to buy something I want to buy it once and be done. I found this trailer which would do just about all of my towing needs.

2019 Sure-Trac 7x20 Tube Top Utility Landscape Trailer 9900# GVW * PROFESSIONAL LANDSCAPE SERIES * HD GATE UPGRADE | Best Choice Trailers Harrisburg Area



My question is since the trailer has a GVW of 9900 pounds and my truck is only rated at 5700 pounds as long as I keep it loaded to under 5700 pounds am I ok from a legal standpoint?

Thanks


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I don't think you will have a problem with axle overloading. Now the big question: what is the GVWR of the tow vehicle. You dodged a bullet with the trailer GVWR of less than 10,000#. I suspect your pickup is way less than 10,000#, so you should miss the 26,000# max GCWR that could be a problem. I see no problems except that fully loaded, that 4.2L will struggle. Remember to lock out OD. I towed my 1025R and loader on a 20ft aluminum trailer that weighed 1500# empty with my 93 F150 and 302 engine, but it was a struggle. I now have a 2012 Escape with the 4.0L double overhead cam V6 with a lot more HP. I would not even think of trying to tow that same load with it as it has no low end torque at all. But, wow, does it run out to 6500RPM quick.

One other thing I might add. That drop down end gate will require more HP to tow as it catches a lot of wind. I had a 5x10 before the 20ft with that end gate and it was hard to tow at highway speeds.

Dave
 

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One other thing I might add. That drop down end gate will require more HP to tow as it catches a lot of wind. I had a 5x10 before the 20ft with that end gate and it was hard to tow at highway speeds.

Dave
yelp-i 100% agree the gate is a big sail going down the road. thought that when i first bought my land scrapper trailer back in 02. first run on Interstate I-70 coming home. never had it on a 4 lane road since-myself-loaned it out for a run to Atlanta, Georgia. oh.
well i have had it for a spell on a 4 lane road:banghead: towed gator home with on one and had been back now a couple of times too. at least the gator sat high enough i didn't seem to notice no hold back with it on.:dunno:

i love the gate oh for easy loading--no guessing as to where to place the ramps:mocking: but i will say the car hauler we bought last yr--does pull way easier up and down the road-no sail on it:lol:as the ramps are tucked underneath it. better gas mileage with it for sure.

i want a tilt deck for my next trailer-i just think that would be the cats --- for ease of loading and unloading-IMO:munch:BUT THEY ARE MORE :gizmo::nunu:
 

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On my landscape trailer with the ramp, I had a 2 piece strap that allowed me to store it upright, and to lower it so that it is practically horizontal. Cuts the sail effect considerably, but adds about 4 feet to the length, but not all that significant.

I purchased a 22 foot tilt deck trailer, and have used it to move the 955. What a difference. The trailer has 14K rating at the tandem. Doesn't even sweat! But you are right, it was $5,000 to buy, and it is about 8 feet longer than the landscape trailer.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So you guys would recommend something like this over a tilt gate trailer.

2019 H Harrisburg Area



Lighter than the landscape trailer too which is a plus.


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That is a nice looking trailer.

Are you planning on taking the Cub and the Wagon or just the Cub?

The tilt deck's I've used (only a few) went down with weight so as the tractor goes on, the deck goes down. That might make loading the wagon a little more interesting.

The other factor is length and getting the load centered for tongue weight. Since you said you are staying close, you could always make two trips.

It hasn't been mentioned but are you set up for trailer brakes?
 

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I would agree to watch your hitch weight as that is where you will run into issues. Also do you have a brake controller? I would imagine most these trailers are going to be set up with electric brakes. Just a FYI to consider that in your purchase if you don't already have it. In addition to that you will probably need a WD hitch. Most trucks have a 5000# trailer and 500# hitch max rating unless you have a Class IV external WD hitch. Though some newer ones come with a Class IV from the factory. More common in 3/4 ton and up though unless you have a Max Towing type package on a 1/2 ton. With the weight restrictions you are talking about I assume you have a regular 1/2 ton.

I agree that a tilting bed would be easier but if loading the tractor and trailer that would be interesting. The landscape style would be better for that. My little aluminum trailer has a ramp that sticks up. Sure it creates more drag but you said you are not going more than 20 miles or so. It will eat into fuel economy but you should be fine as long as you maintain that 10-15% tongue weight.
 

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I would recommend the tilt deck or any equipment/car trailer over the utility trailer, as the first time you try to load something from the side those trailer sides will be in the way.

Tilt deck or ramps is personal choice, I don't mind ramps, but I'm young (dumb) enough to muscle them around yet.
 

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So you guys would recommend something like this over a tilt gate trailer.

2019 H Harrisburg Area



Lighter than the landscape trailer too which is a plus.


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...personally i like a split deck tilt like a pj T6 over a tongue tilt like you show...once you go tilt you will never go back ....torque flex axles are very nice too.....to use mine i just unlock the tilt...step on back of bed till it is on ground drive a machine up till it tilts back flat then pull a bit more forward to load the tounge weight then get off and lock bed ....strap it down and go......it is litterally almost that quick....you can adjust the tilt speed with the hydraulic dampening cylinder so it goes as slow or fast as you want with a knob no power required...

...as far as pulling trailers...it looks like you would be legal ....and i have learned i can pull about anything as long as you have a low enough gear........issues arise when it comes to stopping.......no matter what you get get trailer brakes and a good controler and learn how to use it....
 

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...personally i like a split deck tilt like a pj T6 over a tongue tilt like you show...once you go tilt you will never go back ....
I like PJ trailers as well, but the 16 foot T6 is over 3,000 lbs and it goes up from there.

Remember the OP only has 5,700 lbs of towing capacity to work with.


Personally I think the tongue tilt would be better than dealing with ramps though.


Someone mentioned a weight distributing hitch. That might be something for the OP to check as well. It should be marked on the hitch and probably in the same section of the owners manual. They are nice and I like mine.
 

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The ramp gate is great for frequent loading/unloading but it will really catch the wind and suck the fuel. I have a 6x12 single axle and it pulls harder than my loaded 18' car hauler with that ramp up.

I'm not a fan of tilt deck trailers. Friend has a B&B gravity tilt, split deck that he hauls his S330 bobcat on. Works great for that but you can't haul anything much longer because it tilts down before the back wheels get onto the bed. Tilt beds aren't great for hauling something that doesn't run or won't pull itself, takes a big winch and a lot of battery to pull a vehicle uphill the whole way. Have LOTS of trouble trying to load in the snow or rain too, the deck gets slick and you can't get enough traction to climb onto the trailer. Another friend has a long split deck with an electric/hydraulic pump and a tread plate floor, it's almost impossible to get a vehicle on if it's wet at all. Sometimes it's hard to get loaded on then get the trailer lowered down without the vehicle trying to roll or slide. Climbing out of the skid steer when it's pointed uphill is a challenge. The 60+HP machine is too heavy to pull all the way on with the deck raised so you have to load it on, then lower the trailer, then climb back in to pull it further onto the trailer, what a pain. Pretty much need a second person to run the trailer control as soon as you get the rear wheels on.

I have a MacLander 18' with beavertail and ramps that slide in from the rear. Never have to carry the ramps around, you just slide them out and hook them on, then slide them back in and stick the pin in to hold them. The 6' ramps and 2' beaver make the incline pretty minimal and the winch pulls dead vehicles on without much struggle. I really wanted a tilt bed til I actually used one a few times. The way I use a trailer it's just not for me.
 

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I had the same experience as Big Jim with the gate. A few years back I made a 400 mile round trip to pick up a Jetta. I just couldn’t believe the amount of air drag from that gate on the highway.

Many manufacturers are now offering a lay flat gate. At least for the empty part of the trip it would help.
 

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One of the advantages of having a ramp though is when you are backing the unloaded trailer, it makes it a lot easier to see where it is behind you. Granted backup cameras help that all the newer vehicles have.

I don't know if there are any options for this in trailers the size you need but I have seen a lot of them now where the ramp is hinged so it folds up then half of it folds down so you only have 1/2 the resistance.
 

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Just remember, in PA, if it has brakes and it's over 3000# rated, it is 'supposed' to be inspected yearly.
 
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