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Hi total newbie here been poking around the site for a min and went to the JD dealership today to get some info...

Guess here's were I start I purchased 2.5 acres and so did the in laws they don't want to do any work so more like 5 acres for me to deal with. I have an exmark zero turn only 46" deck to handle the around the house stuff. So realistically the fronts will be handled by the exmark but the back 40 as I am going to call it needs the tractor. It was farm land so the terrain is very rutted. There is a small area of brush and large trees that I would like to clean up and reclaim. The driveways are all rock and about 150 ft in length with culverts and small drainage ditch in the front near the road.

So went to JD dealer set on getting a 2025R with a loader, box blade, and bush hog. But the salesman pretty much said I was wasting my money on the R as the only upgrade is lights and the seat? And also advised I didn't get the box blade as most ppl just use the bucket for that? He advised I step up and just get the 3 series. Not trying to bash him as he was a nice guy just was hoping for some more knowledge so I could make a good decision.

My plans with the tractor are to maintain driveways, maintain culvert, bush hog the lets say 3.5 total acres behind the house, one day I would like to get a tiler and till and seed this area, I would like to add a grapple at some point to reclaim the brush area, I would love to have the backhoe attachment at some point but don't need any of this stuff to start.

I am wanting to get this by the end of April so I can use the 0%.

he quoted me as follows all with loader they have a $500 incentive on the 2 series and 1000 on the 3 series so maybe that why he pushed me that way?
2025R ~18700
2032R ~23700
3025E ~20000
3032E ~21800

all have the i match hitch

they also had a $500 incentive on purchasing 2 implements but the other one has to be a frontier to get the 500 credit

Right now I am still thinking I just need the 2025R but I would like some other opinions also anything I should get added to the tractor while I can add it on the 0% like a 3rd hydraulic for the grapple? or attachment for backhoe?
 

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I just bought a 2025r and think that would be perfect for what you need. When I bought mine the end loader and mid mount mower counted as two implements. You could add a set of forks for the second implement. A 3 series would seem pretty large for property that small.

I would like a box blade but just use my bucket for grading gravel. I keep looking for a used one cheap.
 

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Well, your salesman is not very ambitious or smart, there is more to the R than lights on the fenders. Not to mention, the 2 series only comes in the R, so he is either trying to point you to the 1023E or a 3E. I would say you are looking a good tractor for your intended uses, even the 1 series could handle what you are wanting to do, but the 2025R would do it a little more comfortably. And, I really don't think you would need a 3 series for that amount of land.

:wgtt:
 

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2032R gives you a little more pto horsepower if you want to run a 5ft tiller or brush hog. My 2025R will run them but more pto hp is never a bad thing. And you get a little stronger loader. Any of them will work fine but I would definitely get the box blade or a land plane for the driveway. The bucket works but no comparison to how well one of those implements can smooth a rough driveway.
I wish i would have added the rear scv for a hydraulic top link.

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I would say you are looking a good tractor for your intended uses, even the 1 series could handle what you are wanting to do, but the 2025R would do it a little more comfortably.
^^^^ This right here.

As I read through your description I figured you'd be looking at a 1-series. The 2025R is more than enough to handle everything you described. A 3-series (other than perhaps the 3025E) seems ridiculous for your needs to me.

And don't forget, your loader counts as an implement as far as incentives goes.
 

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For that description I’d do a 2025r, loader, bucket, forks, box blade, rear SCVs for hydraulic top and tilt (so worth it) and rotary cutter.


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2017 2038r 72” MMM Command Cut 220r loader
 

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For that description I’d do a 2025r, loader, bucket, forks, box blade, rear SCVs for hydraulic top and tilt (so worth it) and rotary cutter.


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2017 2038r 72” MMM Command Cut 220r loader
That would be all ya need! Nice setup.


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Well - what you “need” could be as low as an older 8N realistically to just handle mowing and pulling a blade. Easily obtainable at around 3k.

Other newer used SCUTs are plenitiful and with loader obtainable in the 7-9k range.

What you WANT is a separate matter. Can a 1023/1025 do the same work as a 2025R - yes, and you’ll benefit by having a much newer and more versatile tractor. Of course going the new route gets you 0% financing - so if that’s your preference - a new Deere won’t depreciate greatly over 5 or 6 years.

Myself I went with a 2025R - based on your description I’d say that’s where you need to look to. A 1023/1025 is a great tractor - and the same drivetrain as the 2025. But what you gain is a stronger frame and higher ground clearance. If you had 5 acres of flat pasture to mow - a 1 series would be fine/ruts and rougher field the ground clearance will be needed.

A 3 series isn’t THAT much more than a 2025, but what you lose is the mid PTO, something I think would be useful once you finish clearing the ground. Mid Mount Mower (MMM) on a 2 series won’t come cheap later on, but will always be available used. The 1 series is the nicer mowing - but versatility wins out for me. 3 series now available in gear drive as well - where as 1 and 2 series is hydrostatic (automatic) only. User preference - I personally never owned a hydro tractor before my mower - but I like it.

Accessories - the $500 2 implement deal is nice, but how much are you really “saving”? Frontier is a good brand - well built but the markup above new is not a great deal to me. Better yet - plenty of used 5’ cutters (fine unless your mowing really heavy brush on a 1025/2025) - used 4’ Would be tougher - but new is out there at a savings if you can live without a color coordinated implement. Ditto box blade - why buy new or Frontier - build quality is fairly easy to judge looking at them - and used is out there. No moving parts - nothing to fail over time, why buy new aside from the financing.

Personally - I recommend the backhoe option if financed. Your looking around 90-100 a month, but resale it adds and gives you something you something not easily added in a couple of years or easily found used. Unlike a brush hog or box blade - this one is unit specifc - the hoe fits only select models/years and not a ton of used stuff to pick from.

2032R is a nice power upgrade, and again a heavier frame. 2038 is a 2032 with a turbo - lots of people are satisfied with them, personally I prefer non turbo - just an expensive piece to fail someday.

Your on the right path - just find a better salesperson. A lot don’t know what they are selling on CUT’s. For reference- I was mid 22s on a 2025 TLB - brush hog ran me $500, already had a blade but easy to price various models. No IHitch but again - plenty of options - saw as low as $69 recently but many reviews indicate you get what you pay for at that level. There is an alternative around $275 offered online by a reputable vendor that includes bushings and is well reviewed.
 

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Oh yea, get pallet forks too.

My next purchase - been recommended multi times.

Grapple might be useful too - all depends on your budget and likes.
 

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Here's a different perspective.

If you're not mowing with the tractor, a 3025E costs only a little more than a 2025R but gives you substantially increased loader and three point lift capacity and lift height. You may not think that that is important but you're going to run into something you want to lift but can't sooner than you realize. And even though the seat isn't great (but can be replaced), the much larger tires of the 3E will still give you a softer ride (if you air them down from what you typically get from the dealer) than the 2025R.

Will you be doing snow removal? You didn't mention that. If so, a 2025R can run a front blower, and the 3025E can't. But having run both, I prefer a rear blower, because it lets you keep your loader on all winter, so that may not be a big deal.

For pulling a box blade, land plane or back blade, the 3025E is better, because those 43" tires hold a LOT of liquid ballast (if you're going that route) which translates to traction, plus it's heavier to start with (than the 2025R). For brush hogging, it will be a little slower than the 2025R, because it's close to the same HP but substantially heavier, but only if you need to go uphill while running the rotary cutter/brush hog. If your land isn't flat, you may want to spend a little for more a 3032E, then again, you may not. Are you in a hurry? If so, get the 3032. If you're really in a hurry and your land isn't flat, shell out bigger bucks for a 3038E, it will do the same work as the 25 and 32 but it will do it faster--a lot faster than the 25 and a little bit faster than the 32.

The large 2Rs (2032/38) give you a compromise between the 2025R and the 3025/32/38. They have the premium features (better seat, mid-PTO, split brakes (which the 2025R doesn't have)) and the loader and three point lift height/capacity, but the smaller tires can't take nearly as much ballast as the 3E and they cost a lot more. The turn radius is also the same or even worse than the 3E. I got mine because I love the ergonomics (the control layout, the integrated rear SCV controls, etc.). It's really the most pleasant user experience you can get in a tractor right now, and it's got the mid-PTO (which I will probably never use) and split brakes (which I use all the time). But otherwise, the 3E is a much better buy. You can even make the loader on the 3E quickly removable with a quick pin and disconnect kit.
 

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Like Mike01 said....... give the 3E and 3D (gear trans) a serious look. Lots of bang for your buck there. With the 5 acres you've described, that is what I would be going with, and I've owned them all, from 1 thru 4 series at one time or another in the last 15 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Here's a different perspective.

If you're not mowing with the tractor, a 3025E costs only a little more than a 2025R but gives you substantially increased loader and three point lift capacity and lift height. You may not think that that is important but you're going to run into something you want to lift but can't sooner than you realize. And even though the seat isn't great (but can be replaced), the much larger tires of the 3E will still give you a softer ride (if you air them down from what you typically get from the dealer) than the 2025R.

Will you be doing snow removal? You didn't mention that. If so, a 2025R can run a front blower, and the 3025E can't. But having run both, I prefer a rear blower, because it lets you keep your loader on all winter, so that may not be a big deal.

For pulling a box blade, land plane or back blade, the 3025E is better, because those 43" tires hold a LOT of liquid ballast (if you're going that route) which translates to traction, plus it's heavier to start with (than the 2025R). For brush hogging, it will be a little slower than the 2025R, because it's close to the same HP but substantially heavier, but only if you need to go uphill while running the rotary cutter/brush hog. If your land isn't flat, you may want to spend a little for more a 3032E, then again, you may not. Are you in a hurry? If so, get the 3032. If you're really in a hurry and your land isn't flat, shell out bigger bucks for a 3038E, it will do the same work as the 25 and 32 but it will do it faster--a lot faster than the 25 and a little bit faster than the 32.

The large 2Rs (2032/38) give you a compromise between the 2025R and the 3025/32/38. They have the premium features (better seat, mid-PTO, split brakes (which the 2025R doesn't have)) and the loader and three point lift height/capacity, but the smaller tires can't take nearly as much ballast as the 3E and they cost a lot more. The turn radius is also the same or even worse than the 3E. I got mine because I love the ergonomics (the control layout, the integrated rear SCV controls, etc.). It's really the most pleasant user experience you can get in a tractor right now, and it's got the mid-PTO (which I will probably never use) and split brakes (which I use all the time). But otherwise, the 3E is a much better buy. You can even make the loader on the 3E quickly removable with a quick pin and disconnect kit.
Thanks for all the replies I will not be dealing with snow much if ever down in Mississippi. I went to another JD dealer and talked with that salesman and I think I may have figured out what I'm gonna go with I think I will be getting the 2032R. Going to go ahead and get the 60" Command cut while I am getting the 0% instead of adding later. Now I am debating on just adding the frontier tiller as well since I know I am going to get it within the next 18 months. Just worried that I am shelling out top dollar on implements I won't be using that frequently. He also pretty much convinced me I should get the R3 tires and not the R4 since my land is damn near totally flat and since I want to till and then seed and use as a mower in the future.

Mike do you have a picture of your hydraulic top link? I talked to the sales man about adding another rear SCV but wanted to see a hydraulic top link on one
 

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Here's a 2032r with rear svc's and top link.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Thanks for posting that so guess I ask the question I asked my salesman. He told me he has the same tractor 2032r with the added scv on the and has never used it. What are the advantages to adding this? I’m guessing in my case it would help to stabilize the box blade? Same for the tiller I reckon
 

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Now that I have a hydraulic top link, I can't live without one. I'm sure I'll feel the same way about the side link.

The top link completely transformed my box blade from an annoying thing to an extremely useful and easy to use implement. It also made the iMatch 10x easier to use. If the implement isn't sitting quite right, I can adjust the imatch angle to pick it up perfectly. The side link will make that ever better.

Get off the tractor and turn things to adjust top and tilt? Psh. That's for peasants. :laugh:

Also, great choice on the 2032R!
 

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Now that I have a hydraulic top link, I can't live without one. I'm sure I'll feel the same way about the side link.

The top link completely transformed my box blade from an annoying thing to an extremely useful and easy to use implement. It also made the iMatch 10x easier to use. If the implement isn't sitting quite right, I can adjust the imatch angle to pick it up perfectly. The side link will make that ever better.

Get off the tractor and turn things to adjust top and tilt? Psh. That's for peasants. :laugh:

Also, great choice on the 2032R!
Thanks Mike How much did JD charge you for the dual SVCs? also did they put the cylinder on for you or did you but that separately?
 

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Thanks Mike How much did JD charge you for the dual SVCs? also did they put the cylinder on for you or did you but that separately?
I think the kit was around 800-900 bucks, and I chose to let the dealer install it in case something went wrong, so that I could blame them. :)

I forgot what they charged me. Maybe 300 bucks?

I got the top link here for $113: Hydraulic Top Link-Tractor, 3 point | Agri Supply 90599


I went to the dealer to get all the hoses and fittings, and that cost me around 150 on top of that. I had no idea what I was doing with hydraulics, however, now that I watched them do it, I am confident I could have done all of this myself, including installing the dual SCV kit. It's not nearly as complicated as I had imagined.

I ordered the side/tilt link from Fit Rite hydraulics and am waiting for it to arrive (Fit Rite has a long waiting list). Finding the right top link was easy, but side links are very complicated and I wasn't happy with anything I saw out there. Brian at Fit Rite has a very good reputation and he builds everything specifically for your tractor. His prices are pretty good too. I wish he wasn't as popular so that the waiting list wasn't as long. :)
 

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I think the kit was around 800-900 bucks, and I chose to let the dealer install it in case something went wrong, so that I could blame them. :)

I forgot what they charged me. Maybe 300 bucks?

I got the top link here for $113: Hydraulic Top Link-Tractor, 3 point | Agri Supply 90599


I went to the dealer to get all the hoses and fittings, and that cost me around 150 on top of that. I had no idea what I was doing with hydraulics, however, now that I watched them do it, I am confident I could have done all of this myself, including installing the dual SCV kit. It's not nearly as complicated as I had imagined.

I ordered the side/tilt link from Fit Rite hydraulics and am waiting for it to arrive (Fit Rite has a long waiting list). Finding the right top link was easy, but side links are very complicated and I wasn't happy with anything I saw out there. Brian at Fit Rite has a very good reputation and he builds everything specifically for your tractor. His prices are pretty good too. I wish he wasn't as popular so that the waiting list wasn't as long. :)

Thank you I went ahead and ordered the tractor today from the dealer! How do you control the top link?
 
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