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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In looking at threads and videos, doesn't seem anyone has the combination I bought - and I am hoping this is evident once I get the tractor and the weights together in the garage to install but here goes. (Thanks to TTWT for free shipping - green parts store less expensive than my local dealer)

I ordered:
UC13499 - John Deere 72-lb Cast Iron Rear Wheel Starter Weight
BM18089 - John Deere Mounting Hardware for 72-lb. Starter Weight - THIS IS A HEX BOLT AND NUT COMBO (odd that it isn't a carriage bolt)
BM18101 - John Deere Weight Mounting Hardware Kit - THIS IS LONGER ALL THREAD with two lock washers and three nuts
BM17972 - John Deere 50 lb Rear Cast Iron Wheel Weight

The 72 pound weights have four holes, two unthreaded and two holes that are threaded . . . both weights have the relief cut in for the valve stem

So:
  • use the all thread and mount 72lb and 50 lb together through the unthreaded holes?
  • use the bolt to mount the 72lb into the threaded holes then the all thread thru the second set of unthreaded holes?
  • scrap their hardware and get carriage bolts to take advantage of square rim hole and use a single set to tie them all down?

I realize either way that the hardware is overkill and I don't need to use four bolts . . .

But other than making sure stem is accessible any other tips or tricks?

I may leave these on or may pull them off - so anything that would make getting them off easier would be good which may argue for using all four.

Any one else have the threaded holes on the 72 pound weights? (I think this may be a deere part thing and some of the videos I am seeing are aftermarket weights so no threaded set of holes . . . . )
 

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I've only got the 72s. Used ½" threaded rod (all thread) to mount them. Cheap and easy. Once tight, they don't go anywhere.

Mine are also threaded. I figured that is what I'd use to bolt a 50 to it separately, if I ever add them. I don't think I'd try to wrestle all 120 lbs as one unit. Bolt the 72s, then bolt the 50 to that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've only got the 72s. Used ½" threaded rod (all thread) to mount them. Cheap and easy. Once tight, they don't go anywhere.

Mine are also threaded. I figured that is what I'd use to bolt a 50 to it separately, if I ever add them. I don't think I'd try to wrestle all 120 lbs as one unit. Bolt the 72s, then bolt the 50 to that.
Almost seems like the Deere hardware kits are backwards which is what initially gave me pause - agree wrestling all that weight will be no fun.
 

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personally I would use 4 carriage bolts to mount the 72's then bolt the 50's on to the 72's. Although I can see why all thread, you can probably mount the 72's without removing the wheels. Might have to remove the rims to get the carriage bolts in.
Are you going to have them spin balanced for high speed running? :unsure:
 

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Here is a post some guy made after he had to figure out the hard way how to mount 72's & 50's on his 1023E. Maybe it will help...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here is a post some guy made after he had to figure out the hard way how to mount 72's & 50's on his 1023E. Maybe it will help...
Perfect Picture! Thanks. I figured it was going to be something like that.
 

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I ran into a problem with the Deere carriage bolts. The square shoulder is deeper than the thickness of the wheel, so you can never tighten a nut to the wheel,,, which, in retrospect, is a blessing. You need a little play to line up the holes in the 72 lb weights. I tried stacking washers between the nut and wheel, but the angle of the completely tightened bolts doesn't line up with the holes unless you feel like bending the bolts a little. That would cause an issue the next time you had to remove for tire repair. Bolt the 72's on, then bolt the 50's into the threaded holes on the 72's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I ran into a problem with the Deere carriage bolts. The square shoulder is deeper than the thickness of the wheel, so you can never tighten a nut to the wheel,,, which, in retrospect, is a blessing. You need a little play to line up the holes in the 72 lb weights. I tried stacking washers between the nut and wheel, but the angle of the completely tightened bolts doesn't line up with the holes unless you feel like bending the bolts a little. That would cause an issue the next time you had to remove for tire repair. Bolt the 72's on, then bolt the 50's into the threaded holes on the 72's.
Deere bolts are regular hex bolts in the kit I got.
 

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This post got me curious.......... so I went to Deere's parts and priced out the 72 lb and 50 lb weights , a set for each side............ 😱😱.......... this is Canadian pricing by the way..... just a tad over $4 per pound.........(just getting back off the floor onto my chair).....

Maybe I'll just hang off a bit before I place my order.. 🤣

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So to cap off the thread, I used the threaded rod kit, placed first nut and lock washer 2.5" from end of rod to back of nut and pushed thru rim. Then another nut and lock washer, then 72 pound weight, then 50lb weight then lock washer and nut. Leaves about 3/8" extending beyond the face of the weight so if you want it flush adjust that first spacing accordingly. Only change I would contemplate is maybe just doing 3 50lb weights - 72 is unwieldy and it doesn't have a relief cut for the valve stem. Seems like its still reachable with the 50lb relief cut but tight
Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Tread

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
(So to be clear, I didn't use the starter bolt kit but did steal the lock washers from it. So I have four nuts and bolts leftover. Also, that other picture thread referenced above was spot on, the threaded holes in the weight are in the wrong spot for the tire valve relief cutout and further it seems like on my set they aren't even threaded all the way thru - useless.)
 
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