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Discussion Starter #1

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I'm going to look at this in the morning since I am on my dumb phone right now. I am wanting to put in some apple trees, do I am interested in the best place to get them.

Particularly interested in Melrose apples and would like dwarf or semi-dwarf.

THANK YOU for starting this thread. :good2:

Sent by Tapatalk using the tiny keyboard on my phone. That explains the typos!
 

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This is pretty cool stuff! I'd seen something on TV (probably PBS) about using the "espalier method" to plant trees. Their focus was more on making the tree more ornamental for a garden, but they stressed that they could still grow fruit. It looks like the "spindle method" in the video you linked to in your first thread is similar, but on a huge production scale.

You mentioned in one of your threads that there were issues with HoneyCrisp apples that made them not suitable for home growers. Can you elaborate on this?

Do you have any good links for where to order trees? I actually have a "Dealer for Nursery Stock" license from the State of Ohio, so I should be able to order from commercial/wholesale sources. But, I'm not needing/wanting the quantities that you're doing. Not even close! :laugh: Maybe a dozen or so altogether.

I've got a bunch more questions, but I want to watch the video and read the threads you posted.

By the way, what do you do with all those apples?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm going to look at this in the morning since I am on my dumb phone right now. I am wanting to put in some apple trees, do I am interested in the best place to get them.

Particularly interested in Melrose apples and would like dwarf or semi-dwarf.

THANK YOU for starting this thread. :good2:

Sent by Tapatalk using the tiny keyboard on my phone. That explains the typos!
The first step in establishing an orchard is planning and deciding what you want to accomplish. You need to know the size of what you plan to grow before you can establish spacing. Keep in mind there are about a dozen different roostocks to choose and these determine the growing characteristics of the tree.

I deal with Adams County Nursery but keep in mind this is a commercial outfit and good price breaks start at 100 trees and you need to order 1-2 years out for orders.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I made it through the first link, so far. Thanks for posting. I had no idea apples were grown this way.

This is THE WAVE OF THE FUTURE. Orchards across the nation are being converted to this type of high density growing. High labor costs are the driving force.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This is pretty cool stuff! I'd seen something on TV (probably PBS) about using the "espalier method" to plant trees. Their focus was more on making the tree more ornamental for a garden, but they stressed that they could still grow fruit. It looks like the "spindle method" in the video you linked to in your first thread is similar, but on a huge production scale.

You mentioned in one of your threads that there were issues with HoneyCrisp apples that made them not suitable for home growers. Can you elaborate on this?

Do you have any good links for where to order trees? I actually have a "Dealer for Nursery Stock" license from the State of Ohio, so I should be able to order from commercial/wholesale sources. But, I'm not needing/wanting the quantities that you're doing. Not even close! :laugh: Maybe a dozen or so altogether.

I've got a bunch more questions, but I want to watch the video and read the threads you posted.

By the way, what do you do with all those apples?
I will answer below:

1. Honeycrisp has a natural tendency to develop a condition called "bitter pit". It has to do with the translocation of calcium through the tissue of the apple. In a nutshell you can grow a perfect apple and it will spoil as soon as it is picked.
Read this:
Reducing the risk of bitter pit in Honeycrisp apples - Fruit Growers News

2. I deal with Adams County Nursery and they have great prices, $6.75-9.50/tree, but price breaks start at orders of at least 100 and you need to order 1-2 years into the future.

3. I have grown apples since 1991 and started with standard sized trees that got WAY TOO BIG. As I get older scampering around on high ladders is for the birds. I have an e mail list of customers that have bought apples for many years. I am now in discussion with two apple stands and a commercial packing house with future harvests. But that will require refrigeration and a wash line.

If you are truyly interested, PM me and I will give you my phone #.:usa
 

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Interesting stuff.
I'm going to have to spend more time watching the video.
I just planted a smaller orchard with about 25 trees last year. I didn't spend anytime researching it, just bought a bunch of barefoot varieties from a local nursery and planted them at about 20' spacing. I thought I was "out of room". I planted mostly Honeycrisp and Braeburn.
Thanks for posting this!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Interesting stuff.
I'm going to have to spend more time watching the video.
I just planted a smaller orchard with about 25 trees last year. I didn't spend anytime researching it, just bought a bunch of barefoot varieties from a local nursery and planted them at about 20' spacing. I thought I was "out of room". I planted mostly Honeycrisp and Braeburn.
Thanks for posting this!

Hard to say on the spacing without knowing what rootstock the trees are on. 20' would be good for M-7 but not for M-111.



Forgot to ask, what breed of dog is "Yatt"? Thanks.

These pics were taken over the last 4 years. Yatt passed away this Winter at the age of 13. He is a Deutsch Drahthaar, a German hunting dog. He was pretty a cool dog with a "big dog attitude".

Here is a pic of Kade who is now the "main dog".
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well the apple trees came through the Winter well, didn't really see any rodent or rabbit damage. A neighbor asked me a few minutes ago to look at his 3 apple trees. Sadly 2 of 3 had been completely girdled by rabbits.:banghead:

The trees got the first spray last Friday for Fire Blight prevention and dormant oil spray. It is supposed to rain today and they will get the 2nd spray which will be a fungicide.

I'll try and get some pics when they are blooming which will be soon.:thumbup1gif:
 

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Thanks for the post. I have a private / non-commercial (hobby) orchard up in the Bayfield Co. area. A mix of apples, pears, plums, sweet and pie cherries. We're still pretty dormant here, but it will probably start showing more growth as it warms. It is super wet right now between snow melt and the 2 inches of rain we've gotten in the last couple days (temp. in the 30's today).

I had severe mice / vole damage (below the snow line) on 3 trees (2 were about 8 to 10 years old and already producing), but will try to do bridge grafting in a bit (too early now). I've already collected and stored some scion wood for the repairs. So far I've only done conventional whip and tongue grafting.

Curious as to the fireblight preventive you're using.

Tnx.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the post. I have a private / non-commercial (hobby) orchard up in the Bayfield Co. area. A mix of apples, pears, plums, sweet and pie cherries. We're still pretty dormant here, but it will probably start showing more growth as it warms. It is super wet right now between snow melt and the 2 inches of rain we've gotten in the last couple days (temp. in the 30's today).

I had severe mice / vole damage (below the snow line) on 3 trees (2 were about 8 to 10 years old and already producing), but will try to do bridge grafting in a bit (too early now). I've already collected and stored some scion wood for the repairs. So far I've only done conventional whip and tongue grafting.

Curious as to the fireblight preventive you're using.

Tnx.
I've never had fire blight but don't want to take a chance. The 1st spray for this was COCS which is a copper compound and dormant oil spray.

https://gcrec.ifas.ufl.edu/static/docs/pdf/strawberry-pathology/Fung-label/2008/C-O-C-S-WDG.pdf


Today they got two fungicides, Rally and ROPER. Trees are at 1/4 -1/2" green shoot.
 

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Orchard spraying

Thanks for the fire blight and other spray info. I've read that a dilute copper was indicated for early application but hadn't tried any as yet. It has been too wet and too cold for dormant oil application up there, but I'll be back up in a week or so and will look to see if I can find some of this.

We had an inch of snow a couple days ago as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the fire blight and other spray info. I've read that a dilute copper was indicated for early application but hadn't tried any as yet. It has been too wet and too cold for dormant oil application up there, but I'll be back up in a week or so and will look to see if I can find some of this.

We had an inch of snow a couple days ago as well.
We had some snow last Sat. as well, luckily the tees are not quite to tight cluster and the 28 degrees should be catastrophic.:munch:
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Trees are at pink about ready to pop. Got Roper and Sovran on yesterday with Nutri Sync D a micro nutrient. Going to be rainy and cold a couple days. Will try and get some pics when they start blooming. Should be a ton of flower and be pretty.:good2:

Did lose a tree over the Winter. Haven't had a chance to figure out why, just noticed while spraying. The rest look very good. Very minimal rabbit damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Trees are looking very good, 3 sprays on them so far and today they started blooming in earnest. The Zestar popped earlier in the week. These trees were planted in 2016,2017 & 2018.

Had a bunch of pics, with new camera but site will only take a couple at a time?
 

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THANKS for sharing all this with us!! I find it pretty fascinating to see how your orchard is set up. We have a 4th generation apple orchard about 3/4 of a mile up the road from us. I know that the "parents" would never consider changing over to how you're doing things, but I wonder if the "son" has ever considered anything like this?
 

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I’m new to apple tree spraying. I’ve used basic Bonine fruit trees spray. It’s been a wet cool spring, is there a differnt post bloom spray I should be using since it’s been so wet? Thanks for any advice in advance.
 
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