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Discussion Starter #1
I bought it, for better or worse. :laugh: But it looks to be of good construction, and the price was cheap considering it's a 7'er.

I've never seen this gearbox on the side before. The opposite side bearing cover looks similar to the ones on the KK professionals, and one of the Italian makes, and the back lids are also knock-off Italian but there's so many outfits making them this style that I wouldn't try to say it's one brand vs another.

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The guy has been buying them in racks of 3 or 4 from the other photos, and has sold through a half-dozen so far (going back to mid-last year). Maybe he got some old inventory from the Bush Hog people? I know that parent outfit has some factories here in MN. My brain's pretty mushy from tiller overload trying to figure it out.

I pick it up tomorrow, but given the snow and forecast of COLD, I think it's going to be left in the crate with a tarp on it.
 

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Can't help you identify the manufacturer, but I'll say it looks to be built better than a brick s--t house.
If you got a good price use it and enjoy.
 

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I believe the tiller is made by Woods

Although I can’t find any current models online that resemble what your showing in the photos.

I saw a woods tiller sell at auction a couple weeks ago looking very similar in construction that was blue in color.

Edit: I think I’m wrong. I found the tiller I saw at auction and only the 3 point hitch looks to be the same. The rest looks completely different. I don’t know what the heck you’ve got, it’s a beast though.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm into it for $1800 OTD and have to drive about 45 minutes out of the way on my trip to the cabin to fetch it.

I wasn't really thinking I was in the market for a tiller (yet), but the heavy castings got the best of me. I'm hoping I can pay for it with some contract work around the lake. I know a few people with substantial garden sites and I'm thinking they might appreciate farming out the hard stuff.
 

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I have no idea who makes it but they made the hell out of it. Looks beefy!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
It's Chinese, and the guy selling them is the importer. He's been buying these and some skidsteer attachments for a couple years from this factory (all they do is Ag/industrial stuff).

He's sold 9 of the tillers so far and says all the guys have been real happy with them.

I didn't have anything handy to demonstrate size with, but can tell you the PTO right-angle gear box is 10" or better tall. I think the rear diff on my '81 Carolla was smaller. :lol:

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Discussion Starter #8
Gravity decided it needed to land on it's face yesterday, so I left well-enough alone and started assembly in the prone.

The tailgate was first, since it was easiest to figure out.
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There were no instructions what so ever. All the hardware came in a potato sack, and the bolts in a rice bag inside that. Not being racist - the label has a pic of rice on it!
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So after sorting out the 'odd' bolts from all the tine bolts, I got started attaching tines. This was interrupted by snow.
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132 bolts later... We have a filled out rotor assembly. I didn't bring my tool bag with, so I only have combination wrenches and a couple 9" ratchets, thus I didn't tighten the majority of the tines but they are in place and that was my goal.

At this point, my knees were screaming, my back was sore, and my hands were about to crap out on me; so I called it quits for today.

The important stuff on this tiller is very well designed, but the welding/fixturing of the frame and tins are rough. Given the use of the implement, and the monies spent, it's still a good buy, but it's a hard transition for this former medical implant machinist.

Main rotor bearings have heavy shielding on both ends, and the shaft is 3" diameter.
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I can't budge the tiller now with the tines installed. It's HEAVY! I'll need to use the tractor to upright it, but that'll be another day (maybe tommorrow, maybe not). It's snowing again... :banghead:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Uprighted it with the loader and tried putting the top link bracket on but one side's holes were stamped undersize and the bolts wouldn't fit. So as it turns out, this is kinda like just about every other cheap Chinese purchase - a kit that you get to assemble and work on to get it to function. :laugh:

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I also tried filling the gearboxes, and after adding a gallon to the top one, it started not taking any more from the funnel. The guy who sold it said you filled the top and it ran down the tube to the other box, but then why would both boxes have breathers? I'm going to get one of the USB micro cameras to stick down the fill hole and have a look at what's going on in there.

We're only looking at high 30's for the next 10 days, so I headed home to work on other stuff.
 

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Sure glad that white stuff is almost gone where I live. Having our normal few days of rain now for spring. Side Road I fixed is holding up so far except a ass drove in the ditch and messed up one part. Need more big rocks to line the side with still. That Tiller would make my 1949-50 Troy Built Tiller hide when it showed up on the job!
 

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Let me climb up my high horse for a minute.:laugh:

My genuine John Deere 665 is heavy duty, came fully assembled, powder coated and full of fluids with a pto shaft of the correct length. I have to get some satisfaction out of the extra it cost.:gizmo:

In hindsight that was an expensive two sentences and as Tim says, no matter which one you get you will love it.:good2:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
There's a dichotomy on this tiller: everything that's important is of the highest quality, while things that have no impact on final function or longevity border on crude.

Gaskets have sealant on both sides of them. Threads are all cleanly cut. Castings are smooth but obviously not filled (which is what they used to do to hide crude castings). End plates are thick with clean edges. Welds on the torque tubes are flawless. Welds on the rotor shaft are likely robotic (although not programmed how I would've done it, still very adequate!). Flanges on the rotor shaft are obviously indexed for smooth function and have a uniform axial helix.

Then you get to the 3pt lower links and it looks like they didn't even use a jig. One of the spring shaft tabs on the back door looks like it might have been welded on the wrong side of the other (the shaft is crooked vertically). And as much as I want to point out stuff like that - the door itself is actually double walled. It's designed really well, but execution is lacking.

In about 5 minutes with my die grinder, all the issues will be resolved to allow complete assembly. I don't have any regrets yet. Just kinda wish I had some more info like a maintenance manual.
 

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That is the beefiest tiller I've ever seen. And the price...can't get much better. Now that you have the tines on and your body paying for it, aren't you going to be pissed if you put them on in the wrong direction? Not saying you did, just trying to get you prepared. :laugh: Seemed to remember someone saying they did that once. :dunno: Now that I got you to thinking about it...don't kill the messenger. :nunu: :laugh:
 

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12 bolts and the rotor shaft comes out. I'd just have to flip it end for end and put it back in.

However, I know that this is the correct orientation for forward tilling. Nice try bud! :laugh:
Darn, failed again! :banghead: :laugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Finally got the toplink bracket fixed (had to open the stamped holes due to a slight error in where the plate was bent), and attached, and then mounted on the tractor for the ride home to suburbia. You KNOW this thing is back there! I can raise and lower my skidding winch and not feel a thing. I pick this off the ground and the tires squat a little. :laugh:

Now that it's in my driveway, and I have a real air compressor available - I'll be using my impact wrench to finish tightening up the tines.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I finished tightening up the tines, adjusted a couple things on the rear cover hardware, and repaired a grease zerk I broke upon installation. I just need to trim the PTO shaft and it'll be ready for work.

When I was inside the bearing housing fixing the zerk, I took this pic as I was surprised there was so much grease, but so little where it's actually needed.

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Then took this one to show that bearing is the size of my hand (minus fingers).

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I would've expected roller bearings instead of balls, but balls will handle load-induced misalignment better so I suppose that's why they used them.

I also used my discovery of the light grease packing as a teachable moment for kiddo and found out he's been tasked with greasing gearboxes on his HS robotics team. :good2:
 
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