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The wind rearranged all of our snow and I may need to break down and install the snowblower. I have never removed the loader from the tractor since getting it, so that will be a new experience. The 46 backhoe has a subframe that sticks out about 5-1/2 feet from where the backhoe attaches to the tractor. The subframe is 3" channel and sits flat on the floor. Do you think it would be possible to put the loader bucket over this subframe and detach the loader from the tractor? I could build something for the bucket to sit on so it didn't rest on the subframe. Just trying to save some space in the garage.

Thanks!
 

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Roger47 I use two of the metal Harbor Freight car dollys. I would have to go look but I believe I have a 6x6 that sits under the bottom of the arm. I the have 2 2x6s that are under the subframe almost directly below where the seat is. I have had good luck with this set up and it feels pretty sturdy.
 
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Roger47 I use two of the metal Harbor Freight car dollys. I would have to go look but I believe I have a 6x6 that sits under the bottom of the arm. I the have 2 2x6s that are under the subframe almost directly below where the seat is. I have had good luck with this set up and it feels pretty sturdy.
Thanks for that. Are you describing how the 46 backhoe sits while off the tractor? I usually just set the backhoe on some 2x6s to keep it off the ground. Being on dollies would be nice so I could move it around, though.

Here is a "picture" of what I'm trying or wanting to do. Just put the loader bucket on the subframe of the backhoe when removing the loader to save space in the garage. Obviously, I'm not a graphic artist, nor do I play one on TV.

LB.png
 
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Here is a "picture" of what I'm trying or wanting to do. Just put the loader bucket on the subframe of the backhoe when removing the loader to save space in the garage. Obviously, I'm not a graphic artist, nor do I play one on TV.
That should work just fine as long as the parking stand has room to go all the way to the floor. Also, you can take the bucket off and leave it outside, it does not need to be on the loader to remove it.
 
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Roger47, sorry for the delay, but here are some pictures of my 46 storage setup. In addition, I have the stabilizer legs connected together with hooks to prevent let down. I also use a ratchet strap on the bucket to keep it curled. I have been really please with this setup as it was so simple. You will want to make sure to have the correct storage height so it fits under that tractor. With this set up, I back the tractor into the garage and then simply push the BH under the tractor. When I store it, I simply raise the BH up enough to drive forward slightly which removes the unit off the rear connectors. Once this is done align the dollys and lower the unit onto them. In the last picture you can see that I use the same dollys on each of of my tiller. Good luck.



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. . . here are some pictures of my 46 storage setup. . .
Thanks. Great information. I like that a lot. And really appreciate the photos. What do you put under the very front of the subframe? Do you keep the boom pinned while attaching and removing the BH?
 

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Roger47, I put nothing at all upfront as all of the weight is in the back. If you want you could easily do that with another dolly and 2x4 or 2x6 cross-members. You could start on the working end then determine if you think they are needed.

As I mentioned I really like the car dollies. I have some of the blue plastic larger 1200 lb dollies and have broken a couple. I used the 1500 lb car dollies.

From the HF site:
Constructed of sturdy steel, these car dollies are designed to withstand the weight of your car for easy maneuverability. Each car dolly individually can hold up to 1500 lbs. and feature four swivel casters to allow you to shift and move your project anywhere in your garage with ease. These rust-resistant car dollies are a must-have for anyone working on a car at home and the professional auto worker alike!

Heavy duty steel construction for strength and durability
No-slip diamond tread
Each dolly has four 3 in. swivel casters for great maneuverability
Two locking casters per dolly
Rust resistant finish
 
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I use the same HF dollies for my 1/2 ton 447 hoe. 2 work just fine and it sure is nice to just roll the hoe up to tractor to hook it up without futzing around on the tractor trying to get things lined up. Plus it gives you more storage options in where you can store the hoe in the garage since the tractor doesn't have to go with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
In addition, I have the stabilizer legs connected together with hooks to prevent let down. I also use a ratchet strap on the bucket to keep it curled. I have been really please with this setup as it was so simple. You will want to make sure to have the correct storage height so it fits under that tractor. With this set up, I back the tractor into the garage and then simply push the BH under the tractor. When I store it, I simply raise the BH up enough to drive forward slightly which removes the unit off the rear connectors.
View attachment 672806
This is giving me an idea. That could be dangerous. I'm thinking of using a scissors jack where you have the 6x6. That way one could tweak the elevation and may make it possible to hook up / detach without hydraulic assistance. If I try this, I'll report back with with a yeah or nay vote.

I have a chain across the stabilizers, like you. I just let the bucket go to its equilibrium position.

And a new Hazard Fraught recently opened near here.

Thanks for the inspiration.
 
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That sounds like a cool idea. I look forward to what you arrive at. :good2::good2:
 

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I made one for the 270A, which looks pretty similar to your backhoe. It looks like it might work for the 46 as well if you are looking at other options than the great ideas already posted.
Thanks. When I made the original post, I wasn't looking for a dolly, just info on if I could put the H130 loader over the backhoe subframe to save some storage space. I had looked at your post, though, more than once even, along with some other BH dolly posts here. Now, a dolly is looking more and more attractive. I was watching Mutton's videos on attaching / detaching both the 270A and 46 backhoes. They are considerably different in the subframes and how they attach. The front of the subframe on the 46 attaches to the loader mounts right behind the front tires.

How to Install and Remove a John Deere 270A Backhoe


How to Install and Remove a John Deere 46 Backhoe
 

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Roger47, I apologize for not completely reading your original thread :banghead:. I immediately jumped to storage which was not your question. I see no reason why you could not park your loader on top of the BH frame. As Kenny mentioned, you will need to make sure the parking stand has room to deploy. A little trial and error and you should be able to identify a stop point to detach the loader. Of course you would want to be as centered as possible on the frame. I assume the frame is on the ground. If the frame is off the ground on a dolly, I am not sure how that would impact detaching the loader. I have only detached mine flush to the ground vs detaching it 6-8inches of the ground on something.
 
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Discussion Starter #14

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Discussion Starter #15
Saved about 3 feet

Here it is with the bucket over the subframe. Saved about 3 feet of garage space. Still need to get some dollies and a scissors jack to see how that may work for removing the backhoe. For now, just had to get them off and the snow blower on.

If you have noticed my post on my mower and tiller carts for my 214, you will notice I like the carts to provide functionality to aid in attaching and removing the implement along with providing the ability to move it around.

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