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My daughter wants a truck to pull her horse trailer. She had my old Suburban, but after the engine failed, she lost her trust in it. We sold the suburban, now we need a replacement.

So we are ready to USED truck shop

If anyone has car fax that I can PM serial numbers to LMK :bigthumb:
 
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My daughter wants a truck to pull her horse trailer. She had my old Suburban, but after the engine failed, she lost her trust in it. We sold the suburban, now we need a replacement.

So we are ready to USED truck shop

If anyone has car fax that I can PM serial numbers to LMK :bigthumb:
Z5-

We bought a 2014 Silverado for my wife last April. We went GM certified pre-owned. Before we began the negotiation dance, the dealership produced a CarFax report. We also found an "internet price" on the dealership's website that was nearly five grand less than the sticker price. The salesman was unaware that his dealership had different pricing methods like this.

I'd gladly help you if I had a car-fax account- you may want to explore if they offer a free trial period like many other subscription based websites do.

Good luck,

Brian
 

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If you're looking on dealer lots, you can sometimes get the CarFax report direct from the listing for the vehicle on their web site. You can also look up the vehicle on cars.com by its VIN and can sometimes get the report there. Worst case is that you tell the dealer you want the CarFax report prior to ANY negotiations.

One thing to be wary of - if there's a 'ding' to the vehicle on CarFax, it's likely accurate. A clean CarFax is NOT a guarantee of clean bill of health. Look the vehicle over VERY carefully, and do whatever research you can on it (type the VIN into Google - seeing it listed on a variety of different dealers' web sites can give you an idea of a vehicle that no one wants).

And, I've been told directly by dealers that the CarFax "guarantee" is a complete joke. If something shows up after you buy, they basically won't do anything for you even though they claim they will.

CarFax is but one tool in your arsenal - it should not be the only one.
 

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And, I've been told directly by dealers that the CarFax "guarantee" is a complete joke. If something shows up after you buy, they basically won't do anything for you even though they claim they will.

CarFax is but one tool in your arsenal - it should not be the only one.
In my opinion, CarFax isn't worth paying for. If you can get one for free great, but that's about all it's worth. Their guarantee is "We'll tell you everything we know about." Well when they miss stuff, all they have to say is "We didn't know about it" and they're off the hook.
 

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Carfax only gets information from organizations that report to them, some car dealers, few independent body shops and very few police reports. In this small rural area they don't seem to receive much info.
 

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If you're looking on dealer lots, you can sometimes get the CarFax report direct from the listing for the vehicle on their web site. You can also look up the vehicle on cars.com by its VIN and can sometimes get the report there. Worst case is that you tell the dealer you want the CarFax report prior to ANY negotiations.

One thing to be wary of - if there's a 'ding' to the vehicle on CarFax, it's likely accurate. A clean CarFax is NOT a guarantee of clean bill of health. Look the vehicle over VERY carefully, and do whatever research you can on it (type the VIN into Google - seeing it listed on a variety of different dealers' web sites can give you an idea of a vehicle that no one wants).

And, I've been told directly by dealers that the CarFax "guarantee" is a complete joke. If something shows up after you buy, they basically won't do anything for you even though they claim they will.

CarFax is but one tool in your arsenal - it should not be the only one.
The biggest issue that we found on my wife's truck's Carfax report was the ownership trail. Her truck was a fleet vehicle that changed hands several times before being acquired via auction by the dealership that we purchased it from. One of the time periods of "ownership" was nine days. The place that we purchased it from owned it for three months. It was low mileage, in great shape, and we got it for a good price. Since we've owned it, it's had two recalls that we got fixed last Monday.

You're correct that CarFax only reports info that has been reported for the VIN to Carfax.

Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Z5-

We bought a 2014 Silverado for my wife last April. We went GM certified pre-owned. Before we began the negotiation dance, the dealership produced a CarFax report. We also found an "internet price" on the dealership's website that was nearly five grand less than the sticker price. The salesman was unaware that his dealership had different pricing methods like this.

I'd gladly help you if I had a car-fax account- you may want to explore if they offer a free trial period like many other subscription based websites do.

Good luck,

Brian
No free trials I am aware of.

If you're looking on dealer lots, you can sometimes get the CarFax report direct from the listing for the vehicle on their web site. You can also look up the vehicle on cars.com by its VIN and can sometimes get the report there. Worst case is that you tell the dealer you want the CarFax report prior to ANY negotiations.

One thing to be wary of - if there's a 'ding' to the vehicle on CarFax, it's likely accurate. A clean CarFax is NOT a guarantee of clean bill of health. Look the vehicle over VERY carefully, and do whatever research you can on it (type the VIN into Google - seeing it listed on a variety of different dealers' web sites can give you an idea of a vehicle that no one wants).

And, I've been told directly by dealers that the CarFax "guarantee" is a complete joke. If something shows up after you buy, they basically won't do anything for you even though they claim they will.

CarFax is but one tool in your arsenal - it should not be the only one.
I have "Googled" VIN #. One truck had been at at least two dealers, at one the price was lowered 3 times, then lower still at the next dealer, then it should up on CL with 1200 more miles and price increased $1100. I am guessing problems and they are trying to get ALL their $$$$$ back INCLUDING the sales tax they paid.

I agree it will not be my only "tool", I mainly want to look for an ownership trail.

In my opinion, CarFax isn't worth paying for. If you can get one for free great, but that's about all it's worth. Their guarantee is "We'll tell you everything we know about." Well when they miss stuff, all they have to say is "We didn't know about it" and they're off the hook.
That's why I am asking if anyone has an account. I used to see "free" car-fax checks offered a lot years ago when I went to the truck forums more.
 
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We bought a 2007 Silverado. search is over! :pickup:
 

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We bought a 2007 Silverado. search is over! :pickup:
zebrafive--ah-ur daughter has good taste---especially my paint color-lol:bigthumb: it's only a yr newer than mine. how many miles on it? mine just turned over 90,000 last weekend at oil change time. still new-huh! hope ur have lots of good luck with it.:thumbup1gif::munch:
 
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Are you sure that Chevy will tow your horse trailer? It looks like Chevy 1500. a half ton truck.
 

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Zebrafive:

That is a nice looking Silverado and an LTZ to boot. :bigthumb:
 
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Nice looking looks new.,:bigthumb: neighbor has towed his aluminum 4 horse trailer for years using his a 1/2 ton.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
zebrafive--ah-ur daughter has good taste---especially my paint color-lol:bigthumb: it's only a yr newer than mine. how many miles on it? mine just turned over 90,000 last weekend at oil change time. still new-huh! hope ur have lots of good luck with it.:thumbup1gif::munch:

Thank's! I like the color too! Much better than the black 2011 I bought myself. It's at 116K miles. Hard to find "low miles" on a 10 year old truck, most were in the 125-200K range. We looked at
Are you sure that Chevy will tow your horse trailer? It looks like Chevy 1500. a half ton truck.
It should tow the steel three horse trailer fine. It has the 5.3 V8, 3.73 gears and the factory towing package. It's rated to tow 9600lbs.
My 2011 Silverado with 6.2 V8 and 3.42 gears is rated to tow 9400lbs yet it has 88 MORE HP and 83LB FT MORE Torque :nunu::dunno:
She had been using a 1999 Suburban, 5.7 V8, 3.73 gears and rated with factory tow package to tow 6500lbs.

She estimates the maximum she will tow is 6-7K lbs.

I do think airbags and/or weight distributing hitch will be needed.

It is a 1/2 ton, but that does not mean much anymore for towing
 

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It should tow the steel three horse trailer fine. It has the 5.3 V8, 3.73 gears and the factory towing package. It's rated to tow 9600lbs.
My 2011 Silverado with 6.2 V8 and 3.42 gears is rated to tow 9400lbs yet it has 88 MORE HP and 83LB FT MORE Torque :nunu::dunno:
She had been using a 1999 Suburban, 5.7 V8, 3.73 gears and rated with factory tow package to tow 6500lbs.

She estimates the maximum she will tow is 6-7K lbs.

I do think airbags and/or weight distributing hitch will be needed.

It is a 1/2 ton, but that does not mean much anymore for towing
Where did you get the tow capacity numbers from? That truck should have been rated as 7500 tow capacity equipped like that (4WD, 5.3, 3.73, Extended Cab).

Not sure where your train of thought goes with the potential use of airbags, but be mindful that they don't increase cargo or tow capacity, and they don't do anything to "move" some of the weight onto the front axle like a WDH does. And, too much weight in the back can -remove- weight from the front axle making it harder to steer and brake.
 

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Where did you get the tow capacity numbers from? That truck should have been rated as 7500 tow capacity equipped like that (4WD, 5.3, 3.73, Extended Cab).

Not sure where your train of thought goes with the potential use of airbags, but be mindful that they don't increase cargo or tow capacity, and they don't do anything to "move" some of the weight onto the front axle like a WDH does. And, too much weight in the back can -remove- weight from the front axle making it harder to steer and brake.
You're right 7500lbs towing capacity :flag_of_truce:. I got 9600lbs from my 2011's owners manual looking up that engine, ratio, cab and box size. I don't know what they changed to increase it so much in 2011 verses 2007. :dunno:

I was thinking air bags would level the truck and add steering control:dunno:. Plus easier for my daughter to use. The Suburban had both WDH and rear axle air bags. 750lb bars would not level the rear, so I also put 40psi in the bags.

7500lbs should still be enough for what she wants to pull
 

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You're right 7500lbs towing capacity :flag_of_truce:. I got 9600lbs from my 2011's owners manual looking up that engine, ratio, cab and box size. I don't know what they changed to increase it so much in 2011 verses 2007. :dunno:

I was thinking air bags would level the truck and add steering control:dunno:. Plus easier for my daughter to use. The Suburban had both WDH and rear axle air bags. 750lb bars would not level the rear, so I also put 40psi in the bags.

7500lbs should still be enough for what she wants to pull
Might be worth a trip to the weigh station using a heavier rated tow vehicle just to be sure so she's safe. Depending on how heavy the trailer itself is, that 7500 mark could come and go quickly.

The bags will definitely help to carry more weight directly on the rear axle, but the WDH will help to keep the ratios safe between the axles - probably worth knowing what the costs would be for both "just in case."

I'm sure you'll be able to get it figured out the right (and safe) way. I was mostly adding in some comments on the bags for others that might happen along. I see a LOT of people commenting on line about using them -instead- of the things that they should as opposed to -in addition to- the things that they should. Seems too many folks see them as the solution instead of only part of it.
 

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Might be worth a trip to the weigh station using a heavier rated tow vehicle just to be sure so she's safe. Depending on how heavy the trailer itself is, that 7500 mark could come and go quickly.

The bags will definitely help to carry more weight directly on the rear axle, but the WDH will help to keep the ratios safe between the axles - probably worth knowing what the costs would be for both "just in case."

I'm sure you'll be able to get it figured out the right (and safe) way. I was mostly adding in some comments on the bags for others that might happen along. I see a LOT of people commenting on line about using them -instead- of the things that they should as opposed to -in addition to- the things that they should. Seems too many folks see them as the solution instead of only part of it.
I think the trailer weight will be on the title. She bought it from a friend that had a $$$ crisis. (her friends 6.0 diesel needed major repairs) They mostly use her friends Ford F350 dually to pull it. But she also pulled it with the Suburban. It holds three horses, but usually only carries 1 or 2.

I pulled it empty with my 2011 Silverado 1/2 ton 6.2 V8, 3.42 gears. Only felt it because it's tall and has a lot of wind resistance.
 
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