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Discussion Starter #1
I jumped mine when it new and the only solution was to use a wire from one plug to the other to complete the circuit. This was 2 years ago. I’m having a fuse blowing problem now I feel like may be related to this. Has anyone come up with a cleaner way to bypass the seat sensor.
 

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Are you sure the blown fuse circuits are related to the seat switch?


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Discussion Starter #3
No I’m not positive. It’s the ignition fuse that keeps blowing so this is my first suspect.
 
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I have doubts bypassing the seat switch would cause fuses to go. You're just simulating the contacts closing in the switch. As long as you just unplugged the switch and installed the jumper, why not remove the jumper and reconnect the switch? If the fuse still blows you know that isn't it.

Disclaimer: I know nothing about the 2025R seat, but I have played with bypassing the seat switch in my 1023E and am guessing the circuit is similar.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Any ideas where to start looking?
 

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Most have suggested checking the wiring for the seat switch. My guess is this is the most likely wiring that is exposed to damage and chaffing.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
After waiting for rain to stop all day I checked everywhere I could. I found this small tear where it had been jumped. It’s possible it was rubbing and when hit a bump hard enough it caused fuse to blow. Or just constantly arcing so that fuse got hot and blew. A little electrical tape and some zip ties and we’ll see. I also removed the seat switch and found that if this doesn’t work it can be zip tied closed with a long zip tie. That will be my next option.
 

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It didn't dawn on me until now, from this thread and your other one, why do you want to bypass the seat switch? I can understand the RIO, but not the seat switch. To me, that's a much more dangerous thing to be bypassing.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
The 2025R can be a pain to switch from neutral to h/l and I often need to lean up when using pallet forks or the bucket. Just a multitude of reasons. It seemed like I was constantly killing the tractor when new and it’s just something I have always dine to my garden tractors and tractors alike. It’s more user friendly to me at a sacrifice of a little safety.
 

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The 2025R can be a pain to switch from neutral to h/l and I often need to lean up when using pallet forks or the bucket. Just a multitude of reasons. It seemed like I was constantly killing the tractor when new and it’s just something I have always dine to my garden tractors and tractors alike. It’s more user friendly to me at a sacrifice of a little safety.
You'd be much better off to mod the proximity switch under the seat, that way all the other seat safety features work.
 

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Remove the switch that is mounted to the seat frame, c-clamp it close. done. :) Mine lived that way for over a decade until I replaced the neutral sense switch on my JD4500.
 

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Cut a 2" dia piece of 1/2" thick foam padding or packing material. Remove the seat switch and glue the new piece of foam to the underside of the seat, then re-install the seat switch. The added thickness will keep the switch closed even when you're not on it.
 
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Discussion Starter #14
You'd be much better off to mod the proximity switch under the seat, that way all the other seat safety features work.
What other seat safety features?
 

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What other seat safety features?
There is a proximity switch under the plastic below the seat that the reverse peddle contacts to know when you’re in reverse.
I won’t go into more detail about it, you can figure it out from there.
 
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