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Has anyone replaced the cotter pins on the mechanical lift arms for the 62D MMM deck with heavier/beefier pins? I was reading on some other forums people having many problems with the deck falling due to the pins shearing or breaking. I have the 62D MMM deck on my 2520 and was looking for any suggestions or feedback because I just got the tractor about a month ago and have only mowed a half dozen times so far.

Thanks,

Marc
 
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I have had pins come out from brushing into stuff or because they got deformed. However one should be picking that stuff up when you do your pre use checks at the start of a day before you head out.
 
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Has anyone replaced the cotter pins on the mechanical lift arms for the 62D MMM deck with heavier/beefier pins?
Hello Marc
Are you talking about these pins? If so,mine show no wear after two years of use,and what Chris has stated, I too have had zero problems with the linkage.

Greg
 

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Where are these cotter pins you refer to? All I have on my 2520 and 62D are those funky rings that look like they came off of a keychain. Maybe my dealer just automatically puts them on and throws away the cotter pins.

EDIT: Oops. I see Greg was posting a photo as I was replying. On my tractor I have those rings in Greg's photo. But, I just ran outside and checked, and on the right side of Greg's photo by the rear tire where he has the quick releases, I do have cotter pins. Personally, I have had those quick releases get popped out on occasion on other implements. I think the cotter pins may be a better choice for places that you normally would not be taking apart very often (if at all).
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Mechanical Lift pins

Hello Marc
Are you talking about these pins? If so,mine show no wear after two years of use,and what Chris has stated, I too have had zero problems with the linkage.

Greg
Hi Greg,

I was referring to the pins on the back end of the lift arms. . See #13 in attached picture.
 
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Marc
Those cotters I would definitely replace with better/larger ones for sure. What JD uses are way too small. I would also take up the excessive slop in the pins with as many washers as necessary to get a nice snug fit.

Greg
 

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On both my 2720 / 62D with Independent Lift and my 2305 / 54C with Mechanical Lift I've replaced some of the cotter pins with spring locking pins. The spring locking pins are more substantial and can be quickly and easily removed or replaced when making adjustments or doing changeovers. JD offers a spring locking pin assortment for about $12 that they sell at the parts counter. They come in handy and over the past couple of years I've changed over every cotter pin involved with mower deck adjustments or changeovers (62D Deck to 46 Backhoe) on both machines.

Frank
 

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I would change them for certain. I was in the middle of mowing two weeks ago and one sheared off causing the front of the yoke to drop to the ground. Once I realized something happened it was too late. I have had the tractor for just under one year and had 35 hours on the meter. About half of that with the 62D mounted on the tractor. My dealer replaced the part, no questions asked, but had to order it in. I was without a mower for about one week.

All of the other pins have been replaced now.

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for you input on the cotter pins.

I will be replacing those cotter pins for sure then. Do you know if the spring locking pins that would replace these cotters pins would be 1/8 inch diameter?

Thanks

Marc
 
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I will be replacing those cotter pins for sure then. Do you know if the spring locking pins that would replace these cotters pins would be 1/8 inch diameter?

Thanks

Marc
Yes. they're available in 1/8" diameter. Git-R-Done!

Frank
 
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Personally, I have had those quick releases get popped out on occasion on other implements. I think the cotter pins may be a better choice for places that you normally would not be taking apart very often (if at all).
If the spring locking pin being referred to is also called the hitch pin or hair pin, I agree with Andy b too from personal experience,they will get popped off. I have them,but am changing everything back to cotter pins. Being I made my own lockup kit, I no longer need the "quick release" for any of that linkage. It only gets removed once a year when I put my snow plow on,so it's no big deal to have to remove the cotter pins in the rear. Cotter pins are next to nothing in cost compared to what ttammag1 bent. Mine was a worse to the point of having to replace it. Just that slotted part is near 70 bucks. The whole deal will cost close to 150.00.
Hitch pins are convenient,but I wouldn't recommend them. Just my .02

Greg
 

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I wasn't going to reply back to this thread, but since Greg did, I thought I would.

First, I wanted to do some research to be sure we are all talking about the same thing. A quick search turned up the proper name for the clips I am talking about (and I assume most others here are), would be an R-clip.

R-clip - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I don't want to discourage anyone from replacing cotter pins with those R-clips. In my experience, I have NEVER lost a cotter pin (otherwise known as a split pin), but I have had many R-clips pulled out. In fact, on my 1966 110 I lost so many of them that I got sick of seeing the deck wheels laying on the lawn behind me after the R-clip was pulled out and the pin holding the wheels up fell off. I eventually just replaced the pins with nuts and bolts since I never change the deck height. I have had R-clips pulled out of trailer hitch pins in the drawbar, pulled out of mower deck linkages, and 3ph linkages.

If you have a nice flat lawn with no sticks or brush on it to snag the R-clips, then the R-clips may be the way to go. If you are having trouble with the cotter pins being pulled out and broken on your mower deck linkages, I would make the claim that it will only be worse with R-clips. If you want to prevent cotter pins from being broken, I would suggest going with the largest cotter pin that will fit in the hole, and putting a washer between the cotter pin and linkage to help lessen the effect of any rubbing between those parts.
 
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I use the hitch-pin, hair-pin or Andy's r-pin for two years on mine and haven't had an issue. Can you pop them out? Sure but you probably should have taken the linkage off or strapped up to start with. On the farm we use cotter pins if the part wasn't coming off and hitch pins for items that were removable.

Another note is farm stores sell locking hitch pins if you want more security.
 

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I would change them for certain. I was in the middle of mowing two weeks ago and one sheared off causing the front of the yoke to drop to the ground. Once I realized something happened it was too late. I have had the tractor for just under one year and had 35 hours on the meter. About half of that with the 62D mounted on the tractor. My dealer replaced the part, no questions asked, but had to order it in. I was without a mower for about one week.

All of the other pins have been replaced now.

View attachment 8798
I would post a picture of what just happened to my 2520 with 62D but it would just look like I copied ttammag1's picture, so I think I will put it up for everyones enjoyment. And I have 30 hours...too funny! (OK funny isn't the right word).

To me, I don't think the main issue is the cotter pin size (sure doesnt help) but it looks to me that the pin that the cotter goes thru is about 1/4" to 3/8" too short ? I think this is the smoking gun. When the cotter is thru the pin, the forks are already compressed (slightly) and wearing on the pin from the get go. Add a little misalignment (nature of the beast) between the two connection points (on the deck and the 3 point hitch), and BINGO you have "Engineering Disasters by The Discovery Channel" If you take a look in the picture below...the bracket is in it's "relaxed / free" position. There is interferance already! WTF.




I will be visiting the dealer tomorrow...I hope they replace this bracket. My plan is a slightly longer pin with heavier cotter and washer. (of course I hope they cover this too).

I got to say...somethings about this tractor are very good, but I am not impressed with the mechnical deck lift design nor the 4 x 4 engagement. I have also had 2 incidents where the tractor 'jumped' out of 4 x 4 while going down a hill. Once with dirt in the bucket (yes I have the tires loaded and a ballast box weighing it at almost 800 lbs), the second time I just had the deck on.
I called the dealer who picked it up promptly and tested it for a day, just to tell me that they couldn't recreate the problem and that it was fine. REALLY!?!? After reading this forum and others, I see that I am not imagining things, and that is seems to be a quite common problem. I know there is a fix (spring upgrade on the lever)...but man, this is a lawsuit waiting to happen! I think most people don't use these machines on steep inclines much going down hill (my opinion) in 4 x 4, they don't think much of it kicking out because it doesn't happen all the time, or they just think they are going crazy. If it's a known problem, recall and fix it. COME ON MAN!

I hate to sound like a bawl baby on my 6th post, but for $20K this shouldn't be happening. I have 30 hours on the machine and the already?? I owned a cheap Cub Cadet GT1554 that cost me $2K, used it for 168hours over 4 years and never had an issue with it.

The worse part of it is when my wife sees me carrying the bracket in and says...."$20K dollar tractor huh?"

 

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Glad I'm not the only one. I just wish I had replaced the left side cotter pin after the right side failed. It seems that side impacts on the deck like driveways, sidewalks, trees, etc. contribute to cotter pin failure.

Last year:









I just broke the left side cotter and mangled the clevis/turnbuckle arm last weekend. :bigthumb:
 

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Glad I'm not the only one. I just wish I had replaced the left side cotter pin after the right side failed. It seems that side impacts on the deck like driveways, sidewalks, trees, etc. contribute to cotter pin failure.
Thanks for posting those pics!

I had the same thing happen within 2 hours run time when I bought the 62D deck. I was pretty mad - went back to the dealer with the bent piece plus the cotter pin from the opposite side to show them just how feeble they were and in no way the correct size. I did get them to give me a new rod (expensive at ~$75) then went over all the linkage and replaced all the cotter pins with the correct size.

And to be sure - I contacted/hit nothing with the deck - those cotter pins are just way too light for the application.

What were they thinking...??

After that I look at all the pins on any/all implements and attachments right away when I buy something.
 
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I just fixed the left linkage with a torch, press, cold steel chisel, prybar, vice, and anvil. I bought a bag of 1/8" cotters that are slowly replacing the pins all over the tractor. :greentractorride:
 

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Linkage

I just bought the mechanical setup since my independent lift actuator sheared. They wanted 350 to replace. With the 46 backhoe I have to take stuff off anyways and was just plain annoying.

I will be doing as you guys have to not use the stock pins. Can anyone share how the back of the tractor looks and connects to the 3pt? I have no instructions just the parts and can not find where they are on line. I just can't determine how this part goes together. Thanks in advance.
 

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This thread could help you some.

[video]http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/3675-1026r-1025r-1023e-1-series-mower-setup-adjustment.html[/video]

Post #118 and #121 have pictures that may help.

Welcome to GTT.
 
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