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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 2000' gravel drive that needs occasional snow clearance (central VA, 4-10" mostly). I already have a Land Plane for driveway maintenance (love that thing) so the RB is only used for snow. I have an option to upgrade to a LR2072 from my current LR1060 (not the "L"), and am thinking about doing it. I know it's a little big for the tractor but fully angled the 60 barely covers my tracks (52", vs 51" with spacers). I run chains all the way around and have filled tires (every bit helps). I used a pipe under the blade and haven't had any issue with the 60, but would love to know that someone else has done this before without much trouble.

Has anyone pulled snow successfully with a chained/loaded 2305/102X and a 6' blade?

Thanks,
Hunter
 

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You're clearing snow with a rear blade? On a 2000 foot driveway?

How does the tractor maintain footing while pulling the blade? I'm surprised this works.
 
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I used a 6 foot rear blade with my 2305, rear chains and turf tires, unfilled. It worked fine on snow cleanup on my 300' flat gravel driveway, but in Iowa we get enough snow that I would have been screwed without the FEL and rear blower, too. If you can keep up with the snow and it melts between events, you'll be able to pull it fine. If you need to move a lot of snow often and move it great distances, you might get bogged down with ground clearance issues.
 

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790 and snow

Normally I can pull a 6' blade in snow without too much trouble using my 790. Last year's snow/ice combo gave me fits and I ended up backing in a Y pattern. If it tried to go ahead, I either lost traction or it spun the front end of the tractor around because of the layer of ice in the middle of the snow. Since then I've added fluid to the tires and just bought a set of chains. So, if we repeat the same scenario, I'll get a chance to see how much difference they make.

Treefarmer
 
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A 6' blade will accumulate easily triple the weight of snow as compared to a 5' blade.
Expect to "fight" the tractor constantly as the blade pushes you sideways.

With a 6' blade, and more than 5 inches of "Virginia" snow,,,expect to push in reverse a LOT!!

The tractor will do better with a front mounted wide blade, than rear.
 
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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
You're clearing snow with a rear blade? On a 2000 foot driveway?

How does the tractor maintain footing while pulling the blade? I'm surprised this works.
Chains made all the difference for me. Last time I ran without them my neighbor came by with his large farm tractor to fish me out of my ditch that I had slide into. =)

My rear blade is sitting in a 2" pipe with a slot cut in it. Tabs were welded to the pipe that come up behind the blade and keep it from falling off when I life the blade. The means I run at what normally would be an aggressive cutting angle, which forms a pretty nice wave off the blade when running at full speed low.

I haven't had much trouble really. So far I do one of two things:
<8" of snow : FEL and rear blade.
I run the rear blade at 30deg and put the FEL at about 6" off the ground. The bucket keeps me from floating on top of deep snow and loosing traction and the rear blade is pushing stuff off to the right. I make a trip up center right, then come back center right the other way. I now have an approx 8' cleared lane, and then usually take two more passes to widen and clean things. The rear blade will create a wave and throw snow almost 1.5' high and once the berms on the side pass that then this method doesn't work anymore.

>8" of snow : FEL with Artillian front 3pt and the blade hanging off it + full Ballast box
I turn the rear blade around and hang it off his FEL 3PT attachment. I can only run 15deg right now, but I'm going to drill the 30deg holes out (annoying that Woods/Deere don't do that). Now I can lift and push a load up several feet if necessary, which happens when the side berms get >24". Then I just plow until too much builds up and then swerve right while lifting. Most of the load goes up and over. I back up 10 feet and then start again, which catches any mess left behind from that lifting operation. I'd guess I get about 30ft per run and so it does take a bit of time but goes pretty smoothly.

I would love to be able to move just a bit more snow though, and also to edge and clean something without basically having to drive over it. I was feeling like having an extra 5" sticking out each side would help me do that.

Regards,
Hunter
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
A 6' blade will accumulate easily triple the weight of snow as compared to a 5' blade.
Expect to "fight" the tractor constantly as the blade pushes you sideways.

With a 6' blade, and more than 5 inches of "Virginia" snow,,,expect to push in reverse a LOT!!

The tractor will do better with a front mounted wide blade, than rear.
I'm not doubting, just not undertanding... Both blades (60 and 72) are full size (12" moldboard), so how does the extra 10" (when angled) add up that much extra weight?

You sure are right on the snow here. It is the opposite of "powder"... *grin*

Thank you,
Hunter
 

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I'm not doubting, just not undertanding... Both blades (60 and 72) are full size (12" moldboard), so how does the extra 10" (when angled) add up that much extra weight?

You sure are right on the snow here. It is the opposite of "powder"... *grin*

Thank you,
Hunter
The snow compresses, and "loads" in front of the blade, prior to rolling to the side.

I have had a 40 HP tractor almost stop pulling a 6' blade,,, in 14" of snow,,, going down hill,,,
the accumulated snow was disturbing snow in front of the front tires,,, :flag_of_truce:

Last winter, I switched from a 6' to 7',, the change in "pull" was dramatic,,, but,,,
the tractor did not seem to mind,,, :laugh:



I am positive my JD 650 would be useless in more than 4" of snow with a 6' blade,,,



If I wanted to use the 650, I would run over to Tractor Supply and get a 5' blade.
I do have chains for all four tires,, but, 650 plowing would be just for the fun of trying the 650,,

I recommend that if you want to try a 6' blade,,, get a TSC one.
It will be setting, a LOT, might as well go as cheap as possible.
 
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Interesting guys, I've never seen snow plowed with a rear blade, but hey whatever works!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I used a 6 foot rear blade with my 2305, rear chains and turf tires, unfilled. It worked fine on snow cleanup on my 300' flat gravel driveway, but in Iowa we get enough snow that I would have been screwed without the FEL and rear blower, too. If you can keep up with the snow and it melts between events, you'll be able to pull it fine. If you need to move a lot of snow often and move it great distances, you might get bogged down with ground clearance issues.
Just to confirm, you were plowing forward with the blade at a angle (like 30deg, or two notches of the deere/woods blade)?

I've got a pretty open drive, I just need to move the 6-8" at a time of snow off to each side effectively. It's not flat but a pretty gentle slope.

Thank you,
Hunter
 

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I use a 72" landscape rake. I put a pipe on the tines and a piece of sheetmetal welded to it. Strap it on and it works great. I plow about 1/2 mile up and down and all around. When it gets heavy, I turn it around backwards or even take off the sheet metal. Takes a few more passes to get the snow out of the way. Not a big deal.

When it really heavy or drifts, I use my FEL. That's the value of having it with me when I plow.

72" won't hurt you.
 

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My sloped gravel drive to the house is only about 250' but I then continue on around the back of the barn.
My 1025r has R4 tires but I siped them to increase traction. (As an aside, it made a huge difference)
My current snow setup is a 72" back blade that is set at the first angle stop and I pull it forward so the snow slides off to the right side of the drive.
Granted I sometimes use the cheap 48" front blade I cobbled together but just yesterday I tried it both ways and it pulled the blade just fine in about 6" of snow.
The front blade is very helpful in pushing a pile though.


 

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I pulled a 60" rear blade on a 430 garden tractor ballasted to about 1500 lbs.

That blade would make a serious crab walk running angled. Other then that 20hp pulled or pushed it well unless too much came over the top.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
 

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Interesting guys, I've never seen snow plowed with a rear blade, but hey whatever works!
I dont get it either. I just used it to clean up so i could set skid shoes to a front blower at 1"and avoid the water run off underlayer. Growing up an 8n with a rear blade was as common as todays offroad plow truck.

Even a rear blower does not appeal to me even if they a superbly effective.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
 

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Just to confirm, you were plowing forward with the blade at a angle (like 30deg, or two notches of the deere/woods blade)?

I've got a pretty open drive, I just need to move the 6-8" at a time of snow off to each side effectively. It's not flat but a pretty gentle slope.

Thank you,
Hunter
I'm kind of confused by your terminology of "plowing forward", I was using the rear blade as designed to be used. Driving forward with the blade angled to move material off to the sides. If you can drive through the snow, you should be able to pull a 6 foot blade through it angled. You might have to make a pass with it a little high to get the majority and then a second high speed pass to clear it up nice, but it will work. The only time I ever got in trouble was being stupid, and driving into drifts I had trouble even getting through. You don't want to get a load of snow in front of the blade you can't lift it over or mostly over if you need to drive through deeper stuff. The blade will add traction to the rear tires, but if you have snow piled in front of the tractor and snow piled against the back of the tractor to the blade, you're going to have a bad time.

The other thing you can do is drive in reverse with the blade angled, pushing with the backside of the blade. Some blade designs are better for this than others. The upside is mostly that it doesn't try to dig in that direction, and you don't have to go through the process of turning the blade 180°. The downside is looking over your shoulder if you don't have mirrors or can't use them. I did this a lot with my little 2305 and also with bigger tractors when pushing snow back into my lawn, where I didn't want the moldboard to dig up my grass.
 

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I dont get it either. I just used it to clean up so i could set skid shoes to a front blower at 1"and avoid the water run off underlayer. Growing up an 8n with a rear blade was as common as todays offroad plow truck.

Even a rear blower does not appeal to me even if they a superbly effective.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
I love my rear blower and won't ever be without one. I don't understand how people can give up their FEL and bucket to put a blower there, when you can have both all the time. :unknown:
 

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I love my rear blower and won't ever be without one. I don't understand how people can give up their FEL and bucket to put a blower there, when you can have both all the time. :unknown:
Old age!!

Doug
 

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I love my rear blower and won't ever be without one. I don't understand how people can give up their FEL and bucket to put a blower there, when you can have both all the time. :unknown:
Old age!!

Doug
Give 'im time Doug, he'll come around.
 

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I love my rear blower and won't ever be without one. I don't understand how people can give up their FEL and bucket to put a blower there, when you can have both all the time. :unknown:
Thats why i have a tractor for each.

Sent from my LGL52VL using Tapatalk
 
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