Around and Round in circles we go

2337 Views 34 Replies 10 Participants Last post by Treefarmer, Aug 22, 2021

Treefarmer

Discussion Starter · Aug 19, 2021

I needed to fill up some holes in 2" x 2" tubing with a 1/8" wall. So, I figured not a problem to weld them and then grind off the excess. These are through holes so two holes on each side of the tubing, one is about 3/8" and the other is 1/2". One side seemed to go ok. Not perfect but not terrible either. The other side has given me fits. I'll fill them up, grind off the excess and then tap with the chipping hammer to make sure they are solid and walla, the holes reappear.

The best of bad results seems to be a 6011 rod.

To make matters more frustrating, I drilled a 7/8' hole in slightly the wrong spot. I think for that one I'll grind out about a 2" section of the tubing wall and weld a piece back in.

"My Momma always said, "Stupid is as stupid does". Not only am I not a good welder but can't mark a drill hole correctly. .. . .

Reactions: 4

1 - 20 of 35 Posts

workinonit

· #2 · Aug 19, 2021

I can fill pretty much any hole in with one of my MIGs. It's tougher for me with a rod butr I have done it. That's pretty thin tubing to fill in holes on. I filled in all of the rivet holes on my '67 pickup frame whn I boxed it in but I could get to the back with a block of backing copper. That makes them easy as can be to do.

Reactions: 1

Firewood Bandit

· #3 · Aug 19, 2021

The Superintendent at the golf course gave me about 30#s of bed knives off the reel mowers. I use the for welding coupons and each one has 7 holes which I practice welding holes shut. Sometimes it just seems to go easy and other times it is a struggle on filling holes without piling up a bunch of weld.

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Gizmo2

· #4 · Aug 19, 2021

Hang a bolt in the hole, weld around it, grind it smooth, 7014.

Reactions: 5

Old Cajun

· #5 · Aug 19, 2021

Treefarmer said:
I'll fill them up, grind off the excess and then tap with the chipping hammer to make sure they are solid and walla, the holes reappear.

What size rod are you using and at what current?

Reactions: 1

Treefarmer

Discussion Starter · #6 · Aug 19, 2021

Old Cajun said:
What size rod are you using and at what current?

I've tried some difference sizes and currents. Low current was 60 amps, high about 100. Today I was using 1/8 at 80 amps. Basically trying to go as low as possible and still strike the arc ok. (I think it was 1/8 would have to check to be sure.)

Reactions: 1

Treefarmer

Discussion Starter · #7 · Aug 19, 2021

Gizmo2 said:
Hang a bolt in the hole, weld around it, grind it smooth, 7014.

Should I bevel the holes with a larger bit?

I'd have to be careful with the depth of the bolt was I need to drill in that area and don't want to snag the bit on a one sided hole.

Reactions: 2

Old Cajun

· #8 · Aug 19, 2021

Treefarmer said:
I've tried some difference sizes and currents. Low current was 60 amps, high about 100. Today I was using 1/8 at 80 amps. Basically trying to go as low as possible and still strike the arc ok. (I think it was 1/8 would have to check to be sure.)

Would go with a 3/32 dia. rod and like Gizmo said a 7014, like his bolt idea also.
You should have no trouble running it at 70 - 80 Amps.

Reactions: 5

Treefarmer

Discussion Starter · #9 · Aug 19, 2021

Old Cajun said:
Would go with a 3/32 dia. rod and like Gizmo said a 7014, like his bolt idea also.
You should have no trouble running it at 70 - 80 Amps.

Lots of help which I appreciate. I'm not a good welder but am getting pretty good at grinding, lol.

Reactions: 5

Old Cajun

· #10 · Aug 19, 2021

Treefarmer said:
Lots of help which I appreciate. I'm not a good welder but am getting pretty good at grinding, lol.

All of my welds look good........After a pass with the 4 1/2" angle grinder and followed up with
flat black paint.

Reactions: 5

Treefarmer

Discussion Starter · #11 · Aug 19, 2021

Old Cajun said:
All of my welds look good........After a pass with the 4 1/2" angle grinder and followed up with
flat black paint.

LOL, I might need something like roofing tar instead of paint. . .

Nah, paint will do- just need more grinding.

Reactions: 5

Gizmo2

· #12 · Aug 20, 2021

Treefarmer said:
Should I bevel the holes with a larger bit?

I wouldn't but I would cut the threads off the bolt, air gaps are hard to weld/fill on thin steel.

Old Cajun said:
Would go with a 3/32 dia. rod and like Gizmo said a 7014,

Hot and Fast.

Treefarmer said:
I'm not a good welder but am getting pretty good at grinding, lol.

I've been practicing that for many years myself. Black paint also helps. 🤣

Reactions: 5

rydplrs

· #13 · Aug 20, 2021

I’d be buying new pipe. My time is worth something

I don’t straighten nails either

Reactions: 2

Treefarmer

Discussion Starter · #14 · Aug 20, 2021

rydplrs said:
I’d be buying new pipe. My time is worth something

This is actually square tubing that was pretty heavily modified to fit on a sawmill. I'd have several hours of work just to duplicate it again. That still may happen but I remember the pita it was the first time and was hoping to avoid that experience again.

If it was just the cost of the tubing, it would be a no-brainer but the existing modifications/add ons mean time either way.

Reactions: 5

rydplrs

· #15 · Aug 20, 2021

Treefarmer said:
This is actually square tubing that was pretty heavily modified to fit on a sawmill. I'd have several hours of work just to duplicate it again. That still may happen but I remember the pita it was the first time and was hoping to avoid that experience again.

If it was just the cost of the tubing, it would be a no-brainer but the existing modifications/add ons mean time either way.

Is the old piece still good enough to use as a template for a new one? I find copying much easier then making the first prototype.

Reactions: 2

SulleyBear

· #16 · Aug 20, 2021

Treefarmer said:
LOL, I might need something like roofing tar instead of paint. . .

Nah, paint will do- just need more grinding.

If the roofing tar won't work, try asphalt patch.......

I have enough left on the soles of my "road repair work boots" I could probably scrape some off and send it to you.......

Reactions: 2

Treefarmer

Discussion Starter · #17 · Aug 20, 2021

rydplrs said:
Is the old piece still good enough to use as a template for a new one? I find copying much easier then making the first prototype.

Yep, but if I can get some holes filled in it's also good enough to use on the machine. A good welder could have done this in about 15 minutes. Unfortunately, I'm not a good welder but am learning and getting good at grinding, lol.

At this point, it's probably more about me being stubborn than dollars or even time. Also, it's been raining so much that I can't do other stuff so the time is less critical. If the sun was shining, I might find a fabricator and tell them to get it done but the last time I did that, it was almost right but off enough that I had to mod that piece to make it work. If I've got to fix mistakes, they might as well be my mistakes, lol. Some things I just can't do or don't have the equipment to do them right. This one is simple and it's only my inexperience with welding that's the issue. I appreciate the tips from here, sometimes something simple like the right rod can make a huge difference.

Here's an example- my brother wanted to try his Miller wire feed welder and see how it would do. Makes sense- smaller wire, lower amperage etc. but he doesn't use it much. We're working away from line power and I'm using a Lincoln generator/welder so we plugged his welder into the gen side. The wire feed didn't work. Huh? After messing with it for a while, checking for various issues relating to non-use, I flipped my welder from auto idle to fast idle. His welder worked perfectly then. Evidently there is enough voltage drop in my welder that his welder didn't like it and not enough current draw to kick mine into run mode. Lesson learned. (He wasn't any more successful than I was in getting the holes filled. I guess bad welding runs in the family.)

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Reactions: 3

rydplrs

· #18 · Aug 20, 2021

Ok, another thought

Cut sections out and weld in a new plate

If you’re going to be redrilling holes, have them all in fresh steel, or get some tubing and weld in sleeves for the bolts to pass through.

Reactions: 2

Old Cajun

· #19 · Aug 20, 2021

rydplrs said:
I don’t straighten nails either

Come on now, even to tell the dang bent nail you're going in whether you want to or not.

Reactions: 3

Treefarmer

Discussion Starter · #20 · Aug 20, 2021

rydplrs said:
Ok, another thought

Cut sections out and weld in a new plate

If you’re going to be redrilling holes, have them all in fresh steel, or get some tubing and weld in sleeves for the bolts to pass through.

I like both of those options, just need to find the tubing or plate. Actually, I'll probably do plate for the one missdrilled hole- it's too big to mess with trying to fill that one.

I'll also get to see how well I can use the grinder to cut out the patch, lol. More practice on grinding. . . I've done that before cutting a piano hinge off a bat wing mower.

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