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Discussion Starter #1
If you have a 54,60 (or even the 66" CTA) snow blade with quick hitch attachment, a simple bracket can make this a loader mount blade.

This video shows the installation/transformation.

One of the interesting parts which I showed, but didn't discuss, is the ability to drive right up to the blade and connect to it without any heavy lifting.

 

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Just as a "heads up", I have that same setup Artillian/54" plow on my (Gen 1) 2032R and if I left the bracket that replaces the lift cylinder in the 2nd pin hole like you did, the loader ends would drag on the ground before the plow touched the ground. People need to look at that and adjust that bracket as needed to avoid that as a problem.

You left your's with the fork frame curled way back. I use the far back hole on that bracket and my fork frame sits straight up and down when the plow edge hits the ground. That leaves me with about 2" of clearance between the ground and the loader frame.

People should also hold on to that lift cylinder. It is the exact same part as the angle cylinder and with the plow hanging way out there on the loader, it's fairly easy to pop that angle cylinder if you hit something solid while plowing. The lift cylinder becomes a nice spare.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just as a "heads up", I have that same setup Artillian/54" plow on my (Gen 1) 2032R and if I left the bracket that replaces the lift cylinder in the 2nd pin hole like you did, the loader ends would drag on the ground before the plow touched the ground. People need to look at that and adjust that bracket as needed to avoid that as a problem.

You left your's with the fork frame curled way back. I use the far back hole on that bracket and my fork frame sits straight up and down when the plow edge hits the ground. That leaves me with about 2" of clearance between the ground and the loader frame.

People should also hold on to that lift cylinder. It is the exact same part as the angle cylinder and with the plow hanging way out there on the loader, it's fairly easy to pop that angle cylinder if you hit something solid while plowing. The lift cylinder becomes a nice spare.
Good points, Jim. I shoulda had you here helping with the video!
 

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Another nice thing about using the plow on the loader like this: You can still use the loader to help you get yourself unstuck if you get bound up in snow. Just straighten the plow out, face it straight down and lower the loader. As soon as you get some weight on the plow, use the curl function to turn the loader up while pressing on the reverse pedal and it works just like using the bucket. I don't recommend doing this a lot but it works if you find yourself in a jam. :good2:
 

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Tim,

That was a great video and a cool product. It makes me wish I had a concrete driveway and that we regularly get snow. We live in S.E. South Carolina about 30 miles from the coast, so snow is a rare occurrence. Although we did get 6" last winter. :yahoo:

Keep up the good work Tim. Looking forward to that 3R or 4R in your future.

Jeff
 
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I just purchased this adapter the other day. One question, is this going to put excessive side force on the loader? I know that JD makes the AF10, which is basically the same thing.

Now to see if Artillian will start to make the squeegee blade for the 60" blades. I kinda think for the 1 and 2 series tractors, that is going to become the standard. When I ordered My 2018 1026R with 54" blower and a QH blade, that is kinda what the Dealer said.
 
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I just purchased this adapter the other day. One question, is this going to put excessive side force on the loader? I know that JD makes the AF10, which is basically the same thing.
The entire setup is mounted on the fork frame so it shouldn't be any different than using the forks or a bucket as far as stress on the loader goes. The weak link in the whole setup is the QuickTach. That will break before anything else does. A couple of years ago I slammed my plow into a huge rock that was hidden under the snow. The angling cylinder popped when it hit and I had to replace it with a new one.

The AF10 (And the CTA loader mounted plow) don't rely on that stupid QuickTach hitch setup so they have, IMO, an advantage.
 

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I guess what I am saying is that as you are plowing, at an angle, will the force of the snow put excessive side force on the pins? When using the bucket or forks, the load is straight on to the pins. But, like I said earlier, JD does build an attachment that does in effect the same thing.

I'm just excited to be able to switch between the blade and bucket without all the extra work of installing/removing the loader.

I did buy the Artillian grapple, just need to install the diverter valve so I can control the angle without having to unhook the curl hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I guess what I am saying is that as you are plowing, at an angle, will the force of the snow put excessive side force on the pins? When using the bucket or forks, the load is straight on to the pins. But, like I said earlier, JD does build an attachment that does in effect the same thing.

I'm just excited to be able to switch between the blade and bucket without all the extra work of installing/removing the loader.

I did buy the Artillian grapple, just need to install the diverter valve so I can control the angle without having to unhook the curl hoses.
Dave,

In theory, this seems like a reasonable concern. We see it frequently mentioned on these forums as a possible problem with loader attached blades.
However, does this really happen? I haven't seen first hand accounts / photos.
I know that I've been pretty tough on my loader...not always pushing 'straight' with it. I've pried, pulled, pushed, twisted, whatever it took to get the job done. My loader is still as straight as it was the day I bought it.

I think leaving the blade in the spring trip position would also help reduce the likelihood of this problem.

Just my opinion.

BTW, you'll LOVE the grapple!
 

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Thank You Tim, and others who replied. I am new to this whole tractor thing, just trying to learn the ropes.

I need to put together a intro post I guess, just got my 1026R 6 weeks ago.

Tim, to reply to your other post, you and your YT channel are responsible for my purchasing the 1025R. I was trying to decide which JD tractor to purchase. Your channel really helped me to decide that the 1026R would do what we needed. I would have loved a bigger tractor, but the costs were the deciding factor. We were able to get the 1026R plus snow blower, quick hitch, mid mount PTO, and forks for what the next size tractor was base price, give or take.
 

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I received my adapter from UPS yesterday. Funny thing being that I had to drop the loader to mount the plow to plow the driveway so the UPS guy could deliver it.:lol:
 

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I installed this and took it back off the same day - it makes my "float" too heavy and digs up gravel on my driveway when trying to plow.

If anyone would be interested in this unit I will sell it for $150 - I paid $260 for it - need to pick it up near Denver. no shipping. Please PM me if interested.

It is this product for the 1025R. Used for about 90 minutes. :)

http://www.artillian.com/images/22-DFHA_800C.jpg
 

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I installed this and took it back off the same day - it makes my "float" too heavy and digs up gravel on my driveway when trying to plow.

If anyone would be interested in this unit I will sell it for $150 - I paid $260 for it - need to pick it up near Denver. no shipping. Please PM me if interested.

It is this product for the 1025R. Used for about 90 minutes. :)

http://www.artillian.com/images/22-DFHA_800C.jpg
That's a generous offer but maybe you should experiment with it a bit before selling it. I'd jump on this if I were closer. Try adjusting the curl/dump so the cutting edge is a bit more vertical or even a bit past vertical in more of a scraping mode than cutting. That should keep the cutting edge from digging in as badly which should lighten up the "float" a bit. Are you using a steel edge or a rubber squeegee edge? The rubber edge should also help on the gravel.
 
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I installed this and took it back off the same day - it makes my "float" too heavy and digs up gravel on my driveway when trying to plow.

If anyone would be interested in this unit I will sell it for $150 - I paid $260 for it - need to pick it up near Denver. no shipping. Please PM me if interested.

It is this product for the 1025R. Used for about 90 minutes. :)

http://www.artillian.com/images/22-DFHA_800C.jpg
You should not be using you loader mounted plow in float mode anyways. Any front mounted implement is going to dig into a gravel driveway when using float mode. There are numerous threads regard plowing gravel driveways, why you should "not use float mode" when plowing, and proper ballast. I would highly recommend further research if you haven't already sold your Artillian attachment. I have that set up and love it. Seat time with this setup will prove very beneficial and you will probably change you mind.

What is "Rear Ballast"? And why do you need it?
 

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That's a generous offer but maybe you should experiment with it a bit before selling it. I'd jump on this if I were closer. Try adjusting the curl/dump so the cutting edge is a bit more vertical or even a bit past vertical in more of a scraping mode than cutting. That should keep the cutting edge from digging in as badly which should lighten up the "float" a bit. Are you using a steel edge or a rubber squeegee edge? The rubber edge should also help on the gravel.
I have the artillian "non metallic" edge and wings, which are great. I doubt that this item will sell, so i may play with it some more - but not this year. I have the plow working just fine with the factory mount and I really just don't have the time to mess with it. :)

Too bad you aren't closer 'cause we'd both be happy with the sale. :)
 
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