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I've put together a video of our 1025R Diverter Installation (for our new Artillian Grapple). (Special Thanks to Artillian/Curtis!)

This is a long video, as the installation took awhile.

There are two major sections:

1 - Hydraulic Installation

2 - Electrical Controller Installation

We ended up doing the electrical installation two different ways. The first approach became necessary because of an immediate need to use the grapple...then, later in the video, we finished the installation wiring the diverter directly to the fuse box.

We would like to thank GTT user DanaMorgan for this post: http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/2795-1026r-where-get-electrical-power-2.html#post130906 (Their very first post to the GTT forum, BTW).

We used that NAPA part to make the fuse box connection. It was not a perfect fit, as it did not lock cleanly into the fuse block, but I was able to make it work.

Sit back and enjoy, and don't make too much fun of me for saying the bolt head was "10 centimeters". ...instead of 10mm! Oh well...hard to keep everything clear inside my head :)


 

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Nice video Tim!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Very nice video. When I installed mine I took The loader off. Made it easier running the hoses and mounting the Diverter
 

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Your video went a long ways toward explaining what a diverter does. Since I bought the 1025R I've learned much but there is a ton more I need to know.

Reading here has shortened the learning curve.

Thanks.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Your video went a long ways toward explaining what a diverter does. Since I bought the 1025R I've learned much but there is a ton more I need to know.

Reading here has shortened the learning curve.

Thanks.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Thanks for watching!

Yes, GTT is a tremendous resource for all things John Deere, especially compact tractors.

Tim
 

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Very good video Tim but there is no way I could do it. I wish Deere offered a third function valve from the factory as Kubota and possibly others do. I have serious doubts about turning a “tech” loose to do the install, not to mention the cost of having the dealer do it.
 

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Very good video Tim but there is no way I could do it. I wish Deere offered a third function valve from the factory as Kubota and possibly others do. I have serious doubts about turning a “tech” loose to do the install, not to mention the cost of having the dealer do it.
I guess I failed. It really wasn't that hard. If you use the 12v plug version, the electric would be simple.

Just step by step. You heard Katriel reading the instructions to me.

I'm sure you could do it!
 

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I guess I failed. It really wasn't that hard. If you use the 12v plug version, the electric would be simple.

Just step by step. You heard Katriel reading the instructions to me.

I'm sure you could do it!
You most certainly did not fail it was an excellent video as all of yours are! I appreciate your vote of confidence.
 

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After watching Tim's video, and reading the directions, I finally dove in on installing my diverter today. I took some pictures to show the differences with the 120R loader and thought I would add them to this thread. It was pretty easy to follow and do. Once I was done with the hydraulics, I short cut the electric in order to get to work, so I need to circle back and do that properly another time.

I also learned a lesson about carrying the tools needed to tighten fittings in the field. :) Although everything was fine in the garage, when I started to put load on the grapple it revealed that I didn't tighten one of the grapple connections very well. No problem, easy fix. I need to get around to putting together my toolkit for the field.

Anyway, here's some pictures.



First, the grapple modules installed. The jury is still out on the modular system. I might end up just wanting separate implements when it comes to forks and grapple. However, after using the grapple, it's awesome and I may just live with having to move these piece around. Time will tell.





First difference is the hard line connections. They're now these fixed right angle connections. I want to say they were 13/16".




And they are o-ring type fittings.







Then I was worried about the manifold interfering with the heavy hitch, but it didn't since it had to be offset from center so that the hoses reached the diverter.





For routing up the boom, and my first flaw, I should have moved the manifold closer to the boom and put the hoses behind the factory hose. I will eventually do that. When curling and dumping, the factory hose causes the grapple hoses to deflect about 1/2inch. Probably not a big deal, but I ended up removing that zip tie in order to give them more room to move until I reroute.




Fits nicely through factory guide.




Then up and over the factory hoses. I removed the protective sleaving in order to make the hoses easier to work with and properly route. I reinstalled it later. I first stacked the curl and dump hoses on top of each other (the hoses on the left of the 4 hose gang), and connected them, then ran the other hose next to them.




Then I made up all of my connections.




The new dump and curl hoses used 7/8" fittings.





Then I bastardized the electric so I could get to work. Everything worked great!

 

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Question.

Ever since I installed the diverter, I have found that when removing the loader that the two hoses that go from the tractor to the diverter pull very tight to where not only are they difficult to get off, bit impossible to get back on without first seating the loader with the raise and lower.

I emailed Artillian and they suggested that I'm lifting the loader too high when taking it off, but here's a picture ofe lifting it just until the latch latches, per the manual.

Any ideas? Do I have something installed wrong?

Thanks!

 

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Discussion Starter #11
Question.

Ever since I installed the diverter, I have found that when removing the loader that the two hoses that go from the tractor to the diverter pull very tight to where not only are they difficult to get off, bit impossible to get back on without first seating the loader with the raise and lower.

I emailed Artillian and they suggested that I'm lifting the loader too high when taking it off, but here's a picture ofe lifting it just until the latch latches, per the manual.

Any ideas? Do I have something installed wrong?

Thanks!

You have everything right. The hoses are too short.
I unhook the curl hoses before lifting the loader off the frame.
 

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You have everything right. The hoses are too short.
I unhook the curl hoses before lifting the loader off the frame.

Thank you. That's what I'll do then, was just making sure I didn't have something wrong.

Justin
 

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You have everything right. The hoses are too short.
I unhook the curl hoses before lifting the loader off the frame.
They definitely could be longer. I also just unhooked them and got just enough to remove the loader. Lucky for me I do not see removing the loader. I actually ran as much of my lines in with the factory webbing. I was also able to drive forward a bit if needed during the removal process. After 1 1/2 years of owning a 1025/2025 this is the first time I’ve ever removed the loader.

Tim- I noticed how short your electrical was and you needed 3” or so more. Maybe they heard you as the electrical for my 2025 was long enough to go from the handle to the peddle,back to the handle, and probably back to the peddle again. I didn’t really test that but pretty sure it’s that long.

Also, After a year has there been any problems or do you wish you wouldn’t have ran the electrical through that boot? I hooked my diverted up on my 2018 2025r and I ran the electrical around the boot for the time being. My tractor stays inside and out the rain 95% of the time. I’m just a little hesitant going through the boot. Have you done any work in the rain and checked under that boot? Or does it actually seal up good? Maybe it doesn’t matter if those parts get water on them? I have no idea. I’m trying to see if there is any other route before I make a final decision.

I noticed you had some nice rubber tape. Either they don’t send that anymore or I misplaced mine. I think they may send that tape to go around the loader stick where you put the push button. Or maybe it’s for that and some wire connections?

Great video also Tim. I can see where installing all that can be over whelming with the instructions. When it’s all really a pretty simple install. My biggest complaint is black and white instructions and not enough pictures
 

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Discussion Starter #14
They definitely could be longer. I also just unhooked them and got just enough to remove the loader. Lucky for me I do not see removing the loader. I actually ran as much of my lines in with the factory webbing. I was also able to drive forward a bit if needed during the removal process. After 1 1/2 years of owning a 1025/2025 this is the first time I’ve ever removed the loader.

Tim- I noticed how short your electrical was and you needed 3” or so more. Maybe they heard you as the electrical for my 2025 was long enough to go from the handle to the peddle,back to the handle, and probably back to the peddle again. I didn’t really test that but pretty sure it’s that long.

Also, After a year has there been any problems or do you wish you wouldn’t have ran the electrical through that boot? I hooked my diverted up on my 2018 2025r and I ran the electrical around the boot for the time being. My tractor stays inside and out the rain 95% of the time. I’m just a little hesitant going through the boot. Have you done any work in the rain and checked under that boot? Or does it actually seal up good? Maybe it doesn’t matter if those parts get water on them? I have no idea. I’m trying to see if there is any other route before I make a final decision.

I noticed you had some nice rubber tape. Either they don’t send that anymore or I misplaced mine. I think they may send that tape to go around the loader stick where you put the push button. Or maybe it’s for that and some wire connections?
Ok, full confession. They provided PLENTY of electrical wire. I had set an extension cable aside, and apparently forgot it. I called them about it several days later to complain...they said, like you, that the cable should be PLENTY long...and gently encouraged me to make sure I had used the extension cable. Duh! :banghead:

Yes, happy with running the cable through the boot. In fact, just removed it yesterday..used some WD40 to allow it to pass more easily through the boot for removal. No regrets on that...in fact, I can't imagine it hanging outside of the boot.
No worries about the parts under the boot. They get wet and nasty anyway from the tires below.
The switch itself which is on the joystick...I'm not sure it would be totally rain proof.

I removed the diverter because Johnny is finding a new home...being replaced by a newer 2018 Johnny.

I can't remember anything about the rubber tape...other than I found some when I removed...I had used it below the floorboard where the wire crossed the frame. ...it worked perfectly, no damage to the wire at all.

We're working on getting those hoses a bit longer. In fact, I thought they had already started shipping longer hoses. I will check on that.

Tim
 

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We will be installing our Diverter kit in the next few days. I can report back then on the length of the hoses.
 

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Ok, full confession. They provided PLENTY of electrical wire. I had set an extension cable aside, and apparently forgot it. I called them about it several days later to complain...they said, like you, that the cable should be PLENTY long...and gently encouraged me to make sure I had used the extension cable. Duh! :banghead:

Yes, happy with running the cable through the boot. In fact, just removed it yesterday..used some WD40 to allow it to pass more easily through the boot for removal. No regrets on that...in fact, I can't imagine it hanging outside of the boot.
No worries about the parts under the boot. They get wet and nasty anyway from the tires below.
The switch itself which is on the joystick...I'm not sure it would be totally rain proof.

I removed the diverter because Johnny is finding a new home...being replaced by a newer 2018 Johnny.

I can't remember anything about the rubber tape...other than I found some when I removed...I had used it below the floorboard where the wire crossed the frame. ...it worked perfectly, no damage to the wire at all.

We're working on getting those hoses a bit longer. In fact, I thought they had already started shipping longer hoses. I will check on that.

Tim
Ha! all good


Awesome. Maybe I’ll just go throgh the boot then. It was the the hydrolics I was worried about. If you move the boot to the side You can see how it all moves and what I’m talking about. I’m sure rain can’t hurt it. I was just curious.

They may have made the hoses longer. Hard to see from the pictures I posted but I ran my lines inside the factory jd webbing so Its all a bit tighter. If I hadn’t done that it would Possibly be looser. So no worries on my part. I ordered mine November 19th
 

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I thought the hoses for my 3520 were a tad short too. They work fine though, I'm just careful when I'm backing away from the FEL if I'm taking it off. I did talk to Chris about it (before Artillian was sold to Curtis) and he had made the hoses the length they were on purpose and he had a reason that they were the length they were. I don't remember the reason, but it's turned out not to be anything that I've paid too much attention to since I installed the diverter.

Glad you installed this yourself instead of having the dealer do it, LGM! :good2: I told you it was simple!
 

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I ended up getting longer hoses. I just didn't like the tension mine were under.
 
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