[dgf]

Those that have a loader and front mounted snowblower know how hard it is the remove the PTO bracket and shaft when you want to switch between the two attachments. So I came up with an idea that would make the switch much easier. I used my past experience as a autobody and frame repairman so I could moved the loader support arm outward so I could leave clearance for the PTO bracket and shaft while I make a quick switch to snow blower.


You will see the placement of the wooden blocks (4X4's 9" long) that have to be made so you will not bend the long run of pipe to the loader bracket. While you move the bucket forward with the chains attached to the bottom of the loader support arm, the force move the bracket forward while bending the pipe at the location of the blocks. Afterwards everything looks like new yet, there is no distortion of the piping or chipping the paint. If you want to protect the paint then place cardboard between the angle iron and loader and also where the chains are wrapped with old shirts.


The final location of the piping will be 3 1/4" from the face of the frame to the outer edge of the pipe, this will give you a 1/4" clearance past the PTO shaft as you lower the arm down to remove the bucket. Pictures show the setup of the pull, the final pull and then clearance from the PTO bracket and arm as it swings down.

The works awesome, I can now switch between the two attachments without any hassle.

Hope you find this helpful.

 

[Sawdust]

Now that is an interesting maneuver. :good2:

 

[has15]

Look at that! Learn something new everyday!!!!:thumbup1gif::thumbup1gif::thumbup1gif:

 

[Kennyd]

Have you actually tried to attach and/or remove the loader with the PTO bracket in place? Doesn't the parking stand (the part you bent forward) swing down and under when you take the FEL off?

Maybe I am missing the point...You still need to remove the QH and the hoses to it, so it only seems to me that another 3 minutes and you can have the PTO bracket removed also?

Or am I not understanding?:unknown:

 

[Gizmo2]

:munch:

 

[XSKIER]

Have you actually tried to attach and/or remove the loader with the PTO bracket in place? Doesn't the parking stand (the part you bent forward) swing down and under when you take the FEL off?

Maybe I am missing the point...You still need to remove the QH and the hoses to it, so it only seems to me that another 3 minutes and you can have the PTO bracket removed also?

Or am I not understanding?:unknown:

I'm right there with dgf on not wanting to wrestle the shaft and bracket out from UNDERNEATH the tractor. The front mount is the easy part to remove. True, it is three minutes, but that is alot when changeovers only take about seven. Where I park mine there is a loft, I've considered removing the park stand and simply hanging the loader arms with rope and clips from the under side of the loft.

Dgf, Nice work!

 

[dgf]

Have you actually tried to attach and/or remove the loader with the PTO bracket in place? Doesn't the parking stand (the part you bent forward) swing down and under when you take the FEL off?

Maybe I am missing the point...You still need to remove the QH and the hoses to it, so it only seems to me that another 3 minutes and you can have the PTO bracket removed also?

Or am I not understanding?:unknown:

As you can see in the picture that has the bracket mounted back up, the stand is swinging down and missing the bracket by a 1/4". Yes I have tried it and it works perfectly. All you do is keep the quick hitch attached to the snowblower, loosen the pins from the hitch to the PTO bracket and move the blower controls up and the pin moves away from the bracket. I like to put a 4X4 under the quick hitch before I remove the blower for it to rest on. Remove the PTO connection and hoses then back away. Just as easy to mount again.

Bending the stand is a 1/2 hr project, this just makes it so much easier to change between attachments. Here in North Dakota during the winter months I really don't want to be laying on the ground mounting a PTO bracket back up when it's 20 to 40 below zero or when it thawing out.

Hope this helps you better understand this.

dgf

 

[dmay]

Your first pic shows your chain wrapped around the right side of the parking stand. Cant see the left side. Did you pull per side or chain both sides and pull (curl bucket up) connected to both sides?

 

[kimqi]

... The final location of the piping will be 3 1/4" from the face of the frame to the outer edge of the pipe, this will give you a 1/4" clearance past the PTO shaft as you lower the arm down to remove the bucket. ... The works awesome, I can now switch between the two attachments without any hassle.

This seems like a great idea. Wonder why JD didn't design it this way in the first place - is there any downside?

 

[dgf]

I wrapped chains on both sides and pulled at the same time. To set the 4X4 blocks, bring the loader down onto them slowly so you don't bend the tubing, it just needs to set on it with just enough pressure to hold it in place. You have to watch as you pull to make sure you have the tension correct for both sides. I did this myself, it would be better to have someone else to watch as you pull. Just remember that with iron you have to pull beyond the point you want it to move to, don't get wild with it you could pull too far. Just pull and let down and then pull some more till you have 3 1/4" in front of the frame. I also put my insulated coveralls on the hood just in case the angle iron slipped off and came down on the hood.

There's no downside to the change. It works awesome. I don't know why Deere doesn't design it this way.

dgf

 

[dgf]

More pictures

Here is some more pictures of the pull setup.

 

[dgf]

Opps

Loading of pictures didn't work

 

[scrappy]

This seems like a great idea. Wonder why JD didn't design it this way in the first place - is there any downside?

I wrapped chains on both sides and pulled at the same time. To set the 4X4 blocks, bring the loader down onto them slowly so you don't bend the tubing, it just needs to set on it with just enough pressure to hold it in place. You have to watch as you pull to make sure you have the tension correct for both sides. I did this myself, it would be better to have someone else to watch as you pull. Just remember that with iron you have to pull beyond the point you want it to move to, don't get wild with it you could pull too far. Just pull and let down and then pull some more till you have 3 1/4" in front of the frame. I also put my insulated coveralls on the hood just in case the angle iron slipped off and came down on the hood.

There's no downside to the change. It works awesome. I don't know why Deere doesn't design it this way.

dgf

there IS a downside, you can't have frontend weights on with the loader anymore. That is enough to keep me from doing it since I will probably never have the pto on my tractor and want to be able to hang the frontend weights. Otherwise I think it is good solution to your problem

 

[dgf]

there IS a downside, you can't have frontend weights on with the loader anymore. That is enough to keep me from doing it since I will probably never have the pto on my tractor and want to be able to hang the frontend weights. Otherwise I think it is good solution to your problem

Scrappy, when would you use front end weights with the loader on? The loader weighs 609 lbs.

I guess I would never have to use the front end weights for any work that I plan to do. If I ever do all I need to do is fill the bucket with dirt.

Just curious.

Who else uses weights with the loader on?

dgf

 

[Curtis Cabs]

Very industrious solution to an annoying trait of these loaders. I believe Deere probably focussed on appearance over functionality, admittedly a legitimate decision in this case.

I myself would switch from blower to loader more times per season if I didn't have to get down on that cold floor to pull and reinstall the pto shaft. I've thought about bending the stand like you have for years but have been leary of tearing or kinking the thin wall tubing. It's great to see that it worked out well. I'm sure a lot of people will appreciate your sharing.

 

[lost in wisconsin]

dgf,

Great thread. Up until this year, I would not have thought about switching back and forth b/n SB and FEL (once it starts snowing, the SB stays on). With this winter's lack of snow and warmer temps, I could have really used our FEL a number of times but I didn't because of the pita of swapping back and forth, especially the shaft and bracket.

Your post made my day. Thank you again.

 

[scrappy]

Scrappy, when would you use front end weights with the loader on? The loader weighs 609 lbs.

I guess I would never have to use the front end weights for any work that I plan to do. If I ever do all I need to do is fill the bucket with dirt.

Just curious.

Who else uses weights with the loader on?

dgf

without the bucket on there isn't alot of weight put forward of the front axle with the loader where it is needed. in some situations mowing with my 1060r rfm, it seems like it still gets light. and it seems to feel that it is lighter with just the loader than it does with just the 212# of frontend weights.

 

[XSKIER]

To the top for the winter season!

 

[XSKIER]

Hey Vern1026R,

To the top for ya!

 

[eviltwins]

I've been wanting to do this since September and finally got the opportunity to do it. I attempted the technique described above but the bucket curl didn't have enough oomph to bend the stand. I had to remove the blocks that the OP used to pin the bend and I used the lift of the bucket to bend the stand. To accomplish the right amount of bend I had to curl a little, then lift a little and had to work it in this manner until the stand cleared the PTO frame.