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As promised, Modification to Loader to leave PTO Brkt on while switching snowblower

20684 Views 50 Replies 27 Participants Last post by  Manomet
Those that have a loader and front mounted snowblower know how hard it is the remove the PTO bracket and shaft when you want to switch between the two attachments. So I came up with an idea that would make the switch much easier. I used my past experience as a autobody and frame repairman so I could moved the loader support arm outward so I could leave clearance for the PTO bracket and shaft while I make a quick switch to snow blower.

You will see the placement of the wooden blocks (4X4's 9" long) that have to be made so you will not bend the long run of pipe to the loader bracket. While you move the bucket forward with the chains attached to the bottom of the loader support arm, the force move the bracket forward while bending the pipe at the location of the blocks. Afterwards everything looks like new yet, there is no distortion of the piping or chipping the paint. If you want to protect the paint then place cardboard between the angle iron and loader and also where the chains are wrapped with old shirts.

The final location of the piping will be 3 1/4" from the face of the frame to the outer edge of the pipe, this will give you a 1/4" clearance past the PTO shaft as you lower the arm down to remove the bucket. Pictures show the setup of the pull, the final pull and then clearance from the PTO bracket and arm as it swings down.

The works awesome, I can now switch between the two attachments without any hassle.

Hope you find this helpful.


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This seems like a great idea. Wonder why JD didn't design it this way in the first place - is there any downside?
I wrapped chains on both sides and pulled at the same time. To set the 4X4 blocks, bring the loader down onto them slowly so you don't bend the tubing, it just needs to set on it with just enough pressure to hold it in place. You have to watch as you pull to make sure you have the tension correct for both sides. I did this myself, it would be better to have someone else to watch as you pull. Just remember that with iron you have to pull beyond the point you want it to move to, don't get wild with it you could pull too far. Just pull and let down and then pull some more till you have 3 1/4" in front of the frame. I also put my insulated coveralls on the hood just in case the angle iron slipped off and came down on the hood.

There's no downside to the change. It works awesome. I don't know why Deere doesn't design it this way.

there IS a downside, you can't have frontend weights on with the loader anymore. That is enough to keep me from doing it since I will probably never have the pto on my tractor and want to be able to hang the frontend weights. Otherwise I think it is good solution to your problem
Scrappy, when would you use front end weights with the loader on? The loader weighs 609 lbs.

I guess I would never have to use the front end weights for any work that I plan to do. If I ever do all I need to do is fill the bucket with dirt.

Just curious.

Who else uses weights with the loader on?

without the bucket on there isn't alot of weight put forward of the front axle with the loader where it is needed. in some situations mowing with my 1060r rfm, it seems like it still gets light. and it seems to feel that it is lighter with just the loader than it does with just the 212# of frontend weights.
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