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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Title says it all....yes, no, maybe?

We are planning a large project (more details to come soon), and I can get millings pretty cheap, that's why I'm asking.
 

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Seems like a good idea to me but I have no idea. I can't wait to hear about the project.
 

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Check with the concrete company or contractor, maybe even with your city/county paper pushers. It's probably not the best choice, it depends on compaction requirements.
 

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I guess if you could compact it enough it would work. That would be the only concern I could see. If you didn't roll it or equal it could settle leaving a void under your pad.
 

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I would think that the tar/bitumen will get in the way of creating the compaction you need.
 
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Millings will not pass a compaction density or a load psi test. That being said, sand wont either but if used inside a retaining wall very sandy material is acceptable to pour on.

That was a fancy way of saying I don鈥檛 know either but would not try it to save money on foundation. Its better to find places above the concrete to save money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The driveway in front of my existing pole barn is millings, we rented a vibratory roller and packed it in pretty well, been in place since '08 and is hold up better than my paved driveway...

How well does #57 stone pack? That's what we did under the PB floor, then added 2" rigid foam on top before pouring, it's held up great too.
 
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No. Besides the other reasons pointed out, the tar in the millings will react with the concrete and weaken it over time. When contractors plan to demo a concrete surfaced bridge, they will pave it with asphalt year prior because it makes the concrete easier to break up at demo time. same reason asphalt patches in concrete don't hold and wind up making the "fixed" hole bigger when more concrete around it fails.

there should be local building codes based on your soil conditions as to how and with what you put a slab on. I'd expect several inches of 3/4 clear which is cheap would be top layer and 2-3" riprap base layer for wet ground.
 

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57 limestone doesn鈥檛 have the fines in it to pack either. 610 limestone does. 610 would be the better choice.
 

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No. Besides the other reasons pointed out, the tar in the millings will react with the concrete and weaken it over time. When contractors plan to demo a concrete surfaced bridge, they will pave it with asphalt year prior because it makes the concrete easier to break up at demo time. same reason asphalt patches in concrete don't hold and wind up making the "fixed" hole bigger when more concrete around it fails.

there should be local building codes based on your soil conditions as to how and with what you put a slab on. I'd expect several inches of 3/4 clear which is cheap would be top layer and 2-3" riprap base layer for wet ground.
57 limestone doesn鈥檛 have the fines in it to pack either. 610 limestone does. 610 would be the better choice.

Not to drag this off topic, but maybe you can answer this since it's somewhat up Kenny's line - I notice highway builders nowadays at least in my hot summer cold winter neck of the woods sometimes lay down several layers of asphalt before doing the concrete. Before it was a base of compacted stone.

Any thoughts on why?
 
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Better than dirt alone! I鈥檝e had concrete placed on raw dirt and has been fine, no cracking.
 
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I notice highway builders nowadays at least in my hot summer cold winter neck of the woods sometimes lay down several layers of asphalt before doing the concrete. Before it was a base of compacted stone.

Any thoughts on why?
I have no idea. Concrete goes directly onto compacted soil down here in the way way deep south.
 

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Millings will work great as a base for a new concrete pad. I work for the Iowa Dot and we have used it several times for this. We have a large stock pile in the yard, every once in a while we have to have the excavator break up the pile because our pay loader will struggle to get a bucket full. Seems like the longer it sits around in the sun and the more compaction you can get the harder it gets.
 

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Why not just use crusher run(stone and gravel dust). Makes a great base. Unless it's just outa sight on cost and asphalt millings are dirt cheap.

Edit- I just used stone when I built mine. Right, wrong, or indifferent I don't know. Had my guys run a vibratory compactor over it before putting down poly and wire. You can tell what hadn't been run over with the vibrator, looks different. No cracks yet and I have had some heavy stuff in it.


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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
No. Besides the other reasons pointed out, the tar in the millings will react with the concrete and weaken it over time. When contractors plan to demo a concrete surfaced bridge, they will pave it with asphalt year prior because it makes the concrete easier to break up at demo time. same reason asphalt patches in concrete don't hold and wind up making the "fixed" hole bigger when more concrete around it fails.
base layer for wet ground.
Millings will work great as a base for a new concrete pad. I work for the Iowa Dot and we have used it several times for this. We have a large stock pile in the yard, every once in a while we have to have the excavator break up the pile because our pay loader will struggle to get a bucket full. Seems like the longer it sits around in the sun and the more compaction you can get the harder it gets.
Wow, such a contrast in opinions :unsure:
 

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If it doesn't have enough fines it probably won't pack well enough.

rob
 
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I would offer this question to the OP........would you pour concrete over asphalt? .......if not why not? ....probably can answer your own question
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I would offer this question........would you pour concrete over asphalt? .......if not why? ....probably can answer your own question
Well technically I'll be pouring concrete over 2" rigid foam, the millings would be compacted under that.
 

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I鈥檓 not saying it wont work but I drive a ready mix truck for a living, I鈥檝e never seen this done but keep in mind I live in Minnesota and with the ground freezing and thawing cycles we have in the north sand and 3/4 clear limestone seems to be the most common practices.

Try it and let us all know, we all buy and try products that are not proven and report our finding here, that鈥檚 what forums are for!

Good luck with that idea!
 

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I don鈥檛 believe you can find a better base, if compacted.

My driveway of 6鈥 of 1.5鈥 gravel with 6鈥 of reclaim has not sunk in 5鈥, and it was always soup in the spring in that area, and I did dig it out I didn鈥檛 remove down to a better base then the clay/loam. I do a 3 point turn every time I come home. Turning off the old asphalt onto the reclaim.

 
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