Green Tractor Talk banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,057 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
About to change my coolant, my 1025 manual also covers the 1023. The engine block drain plug is shown on a 1023 pic. My 1025 is different. Found what might be it but don't want to make mistake. Does anyone know its location?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
524 Posts
About to change my coolant, my 1025 manual also covers the 1023. The engine block drain plug is shown on a 1023 pic. My 1025 is different. Found what might be it but don't want to make mistake. Does anyone know its location?
You just want to flush it out?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,057 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
It overheated when I first got it. Dealer said top it off with any 50/50 he was wrong. Just draining and changing it. Took out radiator petcock. Wanted to drain water jacket in block and refill.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,306 Posts
I'd like to know too for the future, I would imagine it would look like a square head pipe plug or something?

Have you considered testing your coolant with JD test strips before you change it? The coolants aren't non-compatable, just different additives. It might test OK.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
524 Posts
Not sure if there is a plug you can take out to drain block. I don't have a 1025 in shop right now. Look for a temp sensor that's in block. You can disconnect wire to it and take it out and put thread sealer on it and reinstall when done. If no luck there then just fill it up with water and take lower hose off and run it with putting water in at same time. Do that for a min and it should flush everything out. And drain good if you can then top off with coolguard.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,408 Posts
IIRC, there is a plug to drain the block, and it is the hex "bolt" next to the temperature sender. There is a picture of the sensor and bolt in the adding a block heater thread:

http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/11014-engine-block-heater-install-1025r.html

Check out the photos on the first page and scroll down, you should be able to find it.

IIRC the 1023 and 1025/1026 blocks are slightly different

FWIW, when I changed my coolant to "Evans Waterless Coolant", I added a block heater too. I didn't flush the cooling system as the instructions said not to, as the coolant was only a couple of years old and was clean and not contaminated, but I did remove the plug to empty the block. Here's the thread on the Evans product.

http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/tractor-equipment-maintenance/16903-evans-waterless-coolant.html

Evans is a bunch more expensive, but it has good reviews.(also some not so good reviews from competitors). Supposedly permanent, less corrosion and higher boiling point than a glycol/water mix. And if Jay Leno and Jason (Dieselshadow) approve of it ... it's good enough for me. :lolol:

Just my 2 cents.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
524 Posts
IIRC, there is a plug to drain the block, and it is the hex "bolt" next to the temperature sender. There is a picture of the sensor and bolt in the adding a block heater thread:

http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/sub-compact-utility-tractors-scut/11014-engine-block-heater-install-1025r.html

Check out the photos on the first page and scroll down, you should be able to find it.

IIRC the 1023 and 1025/1026 blocks are slightly different

FWIW, when I changed my coolant to "Evans Waterless Coolant", I added a block heater too. I didn't flush the cooling system as the instructions said not to, as the coolant was only a couple of years old and was clean and not contaminated, but I did remove the plug to empty the block. Here's the thread on the Evans product.

http://www.greentractortalk.com/forums/tractor-equipment-maintenance/16903-evans-waterless-coolant.html

Evans is a bunch more expensive, but it has good reviews.(also some not so good reviews from competitors). Supposedly permanent, less corrosion and higher boiling point than a glycol/water mix. And if Jay Leno and Jason (Dieselshadow) approve of it ... it's good enough for me. :lolol:

Just my 2 cents.
Evans is the best stuff!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
255 Posts
1025R has a plug in the block. After you pry it out it will look like a pistachio shell so I don't know if you can just get a new one and pound it in. I have only taken them out to install the block heater. Might be a good time to justify installing a heater. Some of the 2 series have a huge plug you can screw out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,408 Posts
1025R has a plug in the block. After you pry it out it will look like a pistachio shell so I don't know if you can just get a new one and pound it in. I have only taken them out to install the block heater. Might be a good time to justify installing a heater. Some of the 2 series have a huge plug you can screw out.
I guess prying out a freeze plug is one way of draining the block, but it is easier to unscrew the plug next to the temp sensor.

Capture.PNG

"B" is the block drain plug (this is from the 1026R manual).
"C" is the freeze plug where the block heater goes.

Just my 2 cents.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,057 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
As always, thanks for the help!!! I'm back in service. It's a good feeling when the rig is serviced. Thanks again for the help.
Don
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,022 Posts
Firemark,

I attempted to respond to your PM, but your mail box is full and it will not accept any more PMs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,057 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Firemark,

I attempted to respond to your PM, but your mail box is full and it will not accept any more PMs.
I emptied part of my inbox!
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top